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HomeAircraftHelicopterAlignT-REX 700N › New 700 unlimited build
10-20-2009 03:45 AM  8 years agoPost 1
SteveBeck

rrNovice

Spartanburg, SC

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Alright fixing to start building my first heli. Bought them built usually.

What are your must have parts to upgrade during initial build so there is no taking apart to add later....

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10-20-2009 03:57 AM  8 years agoPost 2
SteveBeck

rrNovice

Spartanburg, SC

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Jason gave me a great list just now. Fun fun...

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10-20-2009 03:58 AM  8 years agoPost 3
crdhelipad

rrApprentice

Rio Rancho,New Mexico,USA

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so what on the list???????
come on share!!!

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10-20-2009 04:02 AM  8 years agoPost 4
Cowjock

rrVeteran

Pa.

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When I get one the first ugrade is a metal bearing block for the start shaft. Second one is thrust bearings on the main shaft(I plan to beat it). The align gyro is ok but I'd opt for a sparten or futaba 520. Now this is just my opinon: dump the 2in1, and get a switch glow, some guys have good luck with them others don't.

Good luck on your build.

Damn that ground is hard! When's the right time to get out of this money sucking hobby?

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10-20-2009 05:08 AM  8 years agoPost 5
jasnlemons

rrVeteran

upstate, SC United States

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I told hime the KDE upgrades - main thrust bearing blocks, elevator servo tray upgrade and the KDE tail upgrade.

Micro percision main gear and pinion, clutch bearing block and finally the bolt and washer upgrade from heli diret.

I run them all in both my 700's and it is flawless. I do run a spartan gyro in one with the align 650 servo and the futaba 520 with the JR 8900G servo.

1 700 has align 610's thru out and the other has align 620's.

1 700 has the O.S. 91 SZ with viper head and cline big bore carb system and the other is a Y.S. 91 ST with viper head

I like trying them diffrent to see what works better.

I like my 2 in 1 and run it in both.

This is just what I like but I am sure I will be beat down on how wrong my choices are but hey it is my heli. LOL

Thanks again steve for the great pics..

Fly it like you stole it!
Stick Banging Expert

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10-20-2009 05:27 AM  8 years agoPost 6
Anthony.L

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA

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I told hime the KDE upgrades - main thrust bearing blocks, elevator servo tray upgrade and the KDE tail upgrade.
The KDE main bearing blocks are really nice, but honestly wait till your first crash and the stock main bearings are toast. Then replace. The elevator servo tray is bling only, and the tail upgrade is nice but not "needed" by any means.
Micro percision main gear and pinion, clutch bearing block and finally the bolt and washer upgrade from heli diret.
Please don't waste your money on the MicroHeli stuff, it's absolute junk. I know cause I have it and can't wait to throw it away. The best MOD 1.0 gear solution for the 700 is the Four Axis Design (FAD) gear set.

http://www.espritmodel.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=11098

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10-20-2009 12:04 PM  8 years agoPost 7
SC Raptorman

rrVeteran

South Carolina

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Alright fixing to start building my first heli. Bought them built usually.

What are your must have parts to upgrade during initial build so there is no taking apart to add later....
My personal opinion is build it stock out of the box and go from there , I usually add up grades if I'm having wear problems in areas that are stressful but other than that I leave it alone and burn fuel instead of spending money to make it pretty . They are pretty darn tuff out of the box . Just my 2 cents

Oh what a feeling 3D Flying can be
Magnum Fuels

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10-20-2009 12:24 PM  8 years agoPost 8
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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What about replacing all the stock frame bolts with an aluminum washer and std bolt kit? This seems to solve the stuck frame bolt issue.

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10-20-2009 12:44 PM  8 years agoPost 9
jasnlemons

rrVeteran

upstate, SC United States

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finally the bolt and washer upgrade from heli diret.
That is what I told him in my list.

Fly it like you stole it!
Stick Banging Expert

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10-20-2009 02:24 PM  8 years agoPost 10
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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^^ ah, missed that. The HD kits are what I used, took 5 kits (50 total, used maybe 44 ?). These could give clearance issues on the main bearing blocks with the control arms but that cna be fixed either with a dremel or just use the stock ones in these locations. Sounds like the Liron kits solve that problem btw

lironheliproducts.com

another item, I did NOT put the head button on, just a good way to break your main grips in a crash.

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10-20-2009 05:05 PM  8 years agoPost 11
inkspot1967

rrProfessor

Cranston Ri

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the bolt and washer upgrade from heli direct and metal clutch bearing holder thingy is all thats needed everthing else is just wasting money.

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10-20-2009 07:40 PM  8 years agoPost 12
RRios

rrApprentice

Orlando, Florida United States

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Just leave the main button off, you can still stop it just fine with your hand.

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10-20-2009 08:07 PM  8 years agoPost 13
Mike Fortin

rrElite Veteran

USA

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There are 2 things that you will need if it's a stock 700N.

1. -1 Main Gear 2 for $10 Bucks
2. Metal Clutch Block $22 Bucks

Everything else is pointless and will do nothing to improve the helicopter or how it flys, it will only make it heavier.

After flying the 700 since it's release and getting to know the machine 110%, those are the only things you will ever need.

The HeliDirect screws are optional but add a nice touch and you won't ever have to worry about stripping the stock screws. Those are $3.99 for 10.

If you want to spend money on anything, just get some fuel.

Have Rotors, Will Fly!

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10-20-2009 08:26 PM  8 years agoPost 14
inkspot1967

rrProfessor

Cranston Ri

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^^^ +1 agreee totally there

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10-20-2009 09:01 PM  8 years agoPost 15
misfits0311

rrKey Veteran

Santa Clarita, CA - USA

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Either somebody got bad info or I got hosed with a plastic clutch block in my LE kit!

╘ₒ₲ₒ 6°° ƺƉ ṾЪ∂®

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10-20-2009 09:08 PM  8 years agoPost 16
inkspot1967

rrProfessor

Cranston Ri

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i got plastic on my le as well

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10-20-2009 09:20 PM  8 years agoPost 17
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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I chose to run the stock plastic clutch bearing housing for now. If it causes problems I'll replace it. I did sand the center just a little to make it grab the pinion bearing a bit tighter.

Why are you guys putting in the metal clutch block? to help keep the pinion in place and keep from stripping the main gear?

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10-20-2009 09:29 PM  8 years agoPost 18
inkspot1967

rrProfessor

Cranston Ri

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after awhile the plastic will let the bearings become sloppy

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10-20-2009 09:33 PM  8 years agoPost 19
DWS6

rrKey Veteran

Newark,DE

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My personal opinion is build it stock out of the box and go from there , I usually add up grades if I'm having wear problems in areas that are stressful but other than that I leave it alone and burn fuel instead of spending money to make it pretty . They are pretty darn tuff out of the box . Just my 2 cents
Could not have said it better. It really doesnt need anything other then the -1 main gear or to save a few bucks, cut the clutch block side tabs in half to push the clutch forward and oblong the bolt holes for the clutch and motor mounts.

Dave Williams
Team Align

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10-21-2009 01:20 PM  8 years agoPost 20
jasnlemons

rrVeteran

upstate, SC United States

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That is 100% why i said that I like these things. It is not a have to have. I bought these things for me. Steve asked what I had so I told him. He can get by with the gears and clutch block for sure!

Fly it like you stole it!
Stick Banging Expert

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