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HomeScale✈️AircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › Blackhawk fuse for trex 600
04-02-2010 03:08 PM  10 years ago
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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i agree a longer coupler mount/housing would have made it easier,maybe rc aerodyne will see this and make the mods. in similar setups i have where a portion of the boom is cut to fit in the mechs, i have the bom extend enough to grab it to pull it out.
the holes csn easily be located if you measure carefully.
you could also do the "slot" technique for removing the coupler.
drill a 1/8th hole into the frame and coupler housing, remove the housing, then the hole in the plastic is elongated to a slot so you can simply use a screwdriver and slide the coupler back to remove it. that has worked in a few instances as well.
keepin mind as well that the boom mount's 4 screws that tighten the boom in place doesnt need to be as tight now as when it was actually securing a boom.
drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
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04-02-2010 07:48 PM  10 years ago
racebeest

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Holland

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What do you guys do with the small hex bolts in the suspension of the wheel struts?
Is a little locktite enough to keep the bolts from loosening?
You can't really tighten them since then the suspension doesn't work anymore, right?
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04-02-2010 07:57 PM  10 years ago
jackheli

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Vancouver - Canada

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I don't want to put sand on anybody's eyes but I am quite disappointed with using the Align 600 for scale. The frames are not stiff enough and twist excessively.

If I were to start a new project I would not pick the 600 again.

Just my 2 cents.
It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.
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04-03-2010 01:07 AM  10 years ago
Choppercopter

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Brisbane, Australia

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Thanks Doctor Copter,

Since the tail boom mount does not need to be tightened like when it was securing the boom, then I will do like you said drill a hole through the tail boom mount and the coupler housing, then make a slot on the tail boom mount and use a small screw driver to slide the coupler housing. Many thanks for the idea.
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04-03-2010 01:42 AM  10 years ago
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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sure thing mate!
Jack, i wondered about the frames for the 600E as i am considering putting mine in a fuse to seehow it does there. so far all the 600E's i have seen in fuses have been quite smooth in flight only one had a bad issue but i dont think the frames were to blame. now i have seen a 600 nitro give nothing but worries withthe shakes for a guy in Jacksonville. i dont know if he ever got it sorted as his last post was about giving up on it.
drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
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04-04-2010 07:49 AM  10 years ago
jackheli

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Vancouver - Canada

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I have two friends which have the 600 in scale fuses. Three including me, and we all had vibration problems because of the twist on the frames.

I have an Airwolf and they have an Agusta 109 and a Jet Ranger. Same issue throughout.

One stiffened the fuse, the other doubled the frames. I am trying a super soft head. Hope it works.
It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.
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04-04-2010 12:44 PM  10 years ago
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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you say a "soft head". what makes it soft? dampening?drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
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04-04-2010 01:06 PM  10 years ago
Choppercopter

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Brisbane, Australia

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Hi Guys

I need some advice from you guys again, wonder if any of you guys could help me out.

According to picture 1, 2 & 3, do I need to cut the carbon tube a bit shorter as the cable tends to curve up a bit, thus I have to push the tube towards the rear a bit more.

I could be wrong, but I think the cable is a little too long because I could not make the tail rotor 45 degree angle in line with the tail boom. The cable is curve right to the back of the boom (see pic 6). Even I have used some force, I am still unable to angle the tail rotor in 45 degree.

Just wonder is it OK to mount the tail rotor as shown in pic 5 but I think this is not 45 degree anymore but is 90 degree. If I mounted the tail rotor like as shown in pic 5, then the angle is about 70 degree but then the bolt at rear (that secures the tail rotor to the boom) is missed the vertical former. In that case I need to make another former that is more wider to accommodate the tail rotor's bolt.

I am not too sure if these are normal or I have made mistakes somewhere.

Thanks in advance

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
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04-04-2010 04:50 PM  10 years ago
nyturtle

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Irvine, California USA

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I am not too sure if these are normal or I have made mistakes somewhere.
Well Choppercopter, you have a couple solutuins dude!!

(1)The easiest thing to do whould to not use "ALL" the former cable guides in the heli, and build your own that would cause a little more lag towars the bottom end of the fuse where the vetical stab begins. This will 100% solve your problem.

(2)You can continue to use the former wood hole guids you have and just shorten you flex cable a bit.

I also noticed in pic#3 that there is a slite "kink" or bend in the cable right after the core mechanics. This tells me that you may have torqued down your set screw too hard, or your cable end is not seeded prefectly stright. I've built 7 UH-60's over the part 7 years, and all of them used a flex drive system. The all flew great!!! See videi below

Watch at YouTube

"The Scale Master"
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04-05-2010 04:03 AM  10 years ago
jackheli

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Vancouver - Canada

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you say a "soft head". what makes it soft? dampening?
Yes. It's a century 50 head with VERY soft dampers, and I can tilt the blades up and down easily.

I tried the mechanics separately already and everything seems fine and vibration free.

Next is to cover the cracks on my fuse and put the mechanics back in...
It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.
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04-05-2010 09:23 AM  10 years ago
Choppercopter

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Brisbane, Australia

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Thanks nyturtle,

The current situation of the flex cable in my heli is shown in Diagram 1. I think I am going to try to lowering the tube end at rear former by making a new former and cut the tube a bit shorter to see how it goes (shown in diagram 2. If this doesn't work then properly I have to try shorten the flex cable, but I don't really want to do this because I don't know how to silver solder the coupler that doesn't break. Just wonder any of you guys have these sort of problems?

Copter Doctor, Creamer and guys, how did you guys do yours?
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04-05-2010 09:37 AM  10 years ago
nyturtle

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Irvine, California USA

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Choppercopter
Option (2) is the way I did ALL my UH-60's
"The Scale Master"
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04-05-2010 01:35 PM  10 years ago
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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i am with nyturtle. option two is how i usually run my cables. i make wide and gradual bends. when the cable exits the mechs, i have mine actually touching the boom on the botttom before making a gradual bend up tothe tail rotor. of course i cut the lengths of my cables and have plenty to work with, not what is supplied as a "pre-cut" piece. that makes sizing up and location of the mechs critical. make sure you have the mechs in the spot the manufacturer specifies or things wont line up.drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft
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04-06-2010 10:46 AM  10 years ago
Choppercopter

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Brisbane, Australia

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Thanks Nyturtle and Doctor Copter,

I think I am going to keep the cable and try to make gradual bends like you guys said. Because I don't know how to professionally silver solder the couplers to the cable, so I don't want to mess it up.

What about the supplied carbon tube? Can it be used at all? Should I need to shorten it at all? If you guys have any pictures, that would help me a lot.

Really appreciate for your help.
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04-07-2010 08:03 PM  10 years ago
creamer

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Smithfield, Utah

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Here is some pictures of the final project of the Jayhawk. I am still trying to figure out what motor and ESC to use for the 4 bladed head and tail. Any suggestions would be nice.

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04-08-2010 07:02 AM  10 years ago
Choppercopter

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Brisbane, Australia

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Creamer,

Very nice Jayhawk. Where did you get all the stickers for your Jayhawk from?
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04-08-2010 07:25 AM  10 years ago
Hoverup

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Golden Gulf Coast - USA

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The graphics packages were done by http://www.callie-graphics.comCheers - Boyd
AMA 80393
IRCHA 3355
LSF 853
Major USAF
Retired
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04-08-2010 08:33 AM  10 years ago
racebeest

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Holland

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Creamer,
Your jayhawk looks super!
Are the extra stickers a standard package that you bought?
Or is it custom design?

I'm working on the following 12S setup:
Motor: Scorpion 4025 630Kv
ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix ICE HV 80
Pinion: Mikado 3012 12 tooth
Main gear: Original

I think this will be suitable for a 4 bladed head too, although I have not tried it.
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04-08-2010 10:49 AM  10 years ago
iHover

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Berne , NY

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Lookin good! I just got my Sea Hawk finished but havent had the time or weather to test hop it yet. Whos 4 bladed tail did you use?You had me at Hover
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04-08-2010 03:19 PM  10 years ago
ady

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norfolk england

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racebeest , your setup is what i been using in my rex 600 , you`ll have more than enough power for 4 blades , i`ve spun a pair of 703 maniacs and it never ever bogged , let us now how she goes please
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HomeScale✈️AircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › Blackhawk fuse for trex 600
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