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Home✈️Aircraft🚁Helicoptere-BladeBlade MSR › My first blade grip mod
09-17-2009 06:04 AM  11 years ago
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paulsv15

rrNovice

New Zealand

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My first blade grip mod
So I decided that I would have a go at making some more durable blade grips after breaking three sets already.

Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the process as I didn't use my brain, not to mention the fact that I didn't actually think that I would be able to get a result worthy of keeping.

So, what I used:
- Aluminium Walkera 4#3B blade grips and hardware
- Old stripped mSR blade grips
- 1.5mm Drill bit + drill
- Scalpel
- CA Glue
- 1000 grit sandpaper

I began by removing the existing Walkera ball ends from the blade grips with a small pair of needle nosed pliers. They just unscrew like you would expect.

Then drill out the hole for the Walkera feathering shaft with the 1.5mmm drill bit. I was very careful and tried to stop the drill before it went right through but found that the shaft is too long to allow it to fit between the aluminium blade grips when fixed together. I noticed that the mSR grips actually had holes right through so did the same and it seems to be okay so far...

Then I carefully removed the plastic ball links from the mSR blade grips that I had stripped out earlier in the day. Don't just cut the ball end off flush with the arm of the blade grip, instead, cut the ball link off so that there is a section of arm still attached. Imagine a small stick of plastic on the end of the ball link. This allowed me to screw and then CA the plastic ball links into the Walkera blade grips. I like to think that the extra 'arm' of plastic will help strengthen it a bit...

Now I had to remove the mSR main rotor hub and feathering shaft including the small rubber o-rings and shims. This was the point where I started to think all my work was for nothing but this is what I did and it seems to work okay.

Grab a sheet of 1000 grit sandpaper and flatten it on the work top. Take the main rotor hub and give the ends where the feathering shaft protrudes a very very light sand, constantly checking with the Walkera blade grips the width necessary to allow for free movement when installed.

I found that after doing this the small o-rings didn't actually fit nicely and would cause pressure on the Walkera blade grips to a point where it wasn't free moving. I actually just removed the o-rings all together and so far it seems to be okay but I intend to drill out the main rotor hub a little to allow a better fit and keep the feathering shaft in place.

Now I reassembled the main rotor hub, put the feathering shaft back in, attached the blade grips and the blades and lastly the links to the ball ends.

Now I'm still very much a learner flyer but I'm capable enough that I like to think that I can tell the difference between a heli that fly's smooth and one that doesn't and for what it's worth the mSR fly's very similarly to stock as I remember it which from what I can tell is fairly smoothly.

Things to note, without the o-rings the feathering shaft is very free to move in the main rotor hub. I will be fitting them back in later tonight I think after a few flights.

Pics: (no vids sorry, don't have a video camera)
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09-18-2009 09:18 PM  11 years ago
bstock

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Easton, MD.

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Did you get the O rings back in? Make a difference?

You did a great job describing it! I was able to follow along no problem. Thanks!

I am still not sure about switching out to aluminum just yet (for anything on it). The heli is meant/designed to be super light... and I am not sure I want to mess with that very much... but it is cool how you did yours... very ingenious.
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09-19-2009 02:31 AM  11 years ago
paulsv15

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New Zealand

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Yes, i did, i used a 2.5mm (from memory) drill bit and just wound it gently into the space the o-rings sit with my fingers for a couple of turns until the o-rings fit snugly back in.

I think the whole modification has helped with stability after using it for a few days. It's much less prone to the dreaded TBE after a crash too.

So far it's had a few nasty looking knocks on furniture and walls and is still ticking along with no ill effects.
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09-19-2009 03:58 AM  11 years ago
bstock

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Easton, MD.

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huhh... more stable... kind of makes sense really in thinking about it.

Kind of like adding flybar weights to a CP heli. When I started out learning to fly on my 450, I actually doubled up on the flybar weights, on both sides of the flybar, to make it more stable and easier to fly.

COOL!
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11-10-2009 09:33 PM  11 years ago
codfish124

rrNovice

Lakewood Co

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i did this works great a lot more stable. tried with the novice blades did not work so well. the thing would spin and not turn right.

thanks for the idea. been flying for a few batteries( 15 or so ) have not broke any thing but the fly bar.
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11-14-2009 04:06 AM  11 years ago
Funknrock

rrApprentice

San Marcos, CA

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I know it's been a while since this was started, but I also have this mod. (Thanks paulsv15!) But for my set up I had the inside of the grips machined instead of modifying the upper head. If you have the means, remove about .015"-.020" from the inside of each grip. Keeps the balance nice and you don't need to change the stock parts
I hand carved the original ball link same as paulsv15 but one broke in the first few flights. I then "machined" a new one using some round Delrin rod (.125" dia). I used a hand drill held in a vice as a makeshift lathe and some jewelers files and exacto knife. Took way less time than carving the original grips.
Also, don't know if it was from holding the blade grips in a vice while machining them but the skock mSR blades didn't fit. I tryed to pry them open a little but still had to sand/file the blades to fit.
I'm pretty sure all this can be done without a machine shop, I just happen to be lucky to have one available.

Tools used:
Drill (corded is best for this)
bench vise
standard med file
jewelers files (used a few different little files to help shape the ball)
exacto knife
caliper
.125" Delrin/acetal rod (1"-2" will make several)
.052" drill bit (to upen up the feathering shaft hole)

I'll try and get some pics up soon. Friggin battery was dead on the camera.
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