New Fury owner!! questions....

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Home › ✈️Aircraft › 🚁Helicopter › Miniature Aircraft Whiplash & Fury 55 › New Fury owner!! questions....

09-18-2009 01:36 PM 11 years ago

0Post 21

BJames111

rrElite Veteran

San Diego, California

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It IS connected directly to the heli. You're going to need a starter wand with a one way bearing. The hex start coupling from the Raptor line of Heli's works well.

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09-18-2009 02:16 PM 11 years ago

0Post 22

b16a2sir

rrNovice

Kelowna, BC - Canada

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OK, Just did a search and found the proper shaft w/ OWB for the starter I got with the heli. Added it to the list.

So, just to be clear, this hex shaft will be spinning when the engine is in operation right?

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09-18-2009 02:30 PM 11 years ago

0Post 23

BJames111

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San Diego, California

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So, just to be clear, this hex shaft will be spinning when the engine is in operation right?

Correct.

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09-18-2009 02:58 PM 11 years ago

0Post 24

dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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And he should be able to crank it over by hand. If not, it's time to find out why. An OS 50 doesn't have THAT much compression.

+1 on the start shaft with the one-way clutch. Without it, the hex end of the shaft will wear out very quickly.-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-18-2009 03:54 PM 11 years ago

0Post 25

b16a2sir

rrNovice

Kelowna, BC - Canada

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OK, I will remove engine this weekend and go through the heli before I place an order.
I almost think the engine is brand new, but not 100% sure. If I should be able to turn by hand, I will look into for sure!

Thanks guys, I am appreciative of all your help thus far!

Jared

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09-18-2009 05:07 PM 11 years ago

0Post 26

goof2

rrApprentice

Bristol,CT

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There is also a 90 degree fuel fitting for the tank to replace the one you have on it now. After awhile the canopy cuts the tubing and its time to practice autos.

Brendan

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09-18-2009 05:50 PM 11 years ago

0Post 27

dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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There is an outside chance the previous owner shot the motor full of after-run oil, and perhaps it's trapped in the cylinder, giving you a hydraulic lock. Even so, you should be able to turn the motor a bit backwards by hand.

Remove the glow plug, see if you can THEN turn it over by hand.

I don't know the design of the clutch and flywheel assembly on the Fury 50, is it possible that someone tried to start it, spun the entire assembly loose, and had the fan binding up on the cooling shroud? In many designs, if you spin the fan/fywheel/clutch stuff loose when trying to start the motor, the whole works spins up the crankshaft, getting the assembly all balled up with the cooling shroud plastic.-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-19-2009 01:58 AM 11 years ago

0Post 28

b16a2sir

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Kelowna, BC - Canada

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Removed glow plug, and the head is full of a clear oil. There is no vertical play on the hex start shaft, so I am thinking you may be right with it getting all buggered up. Or I am thinking it may have never been started.
Clutch bell and main gear all spin freely. I do notice only 2 screws on each side of the upper block, where a possible 4 could be used. Will post pic.

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09-19-2009 02:10 AM 11 years ago

0Post 29

dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Can you turn it over with the plug removed. All that oil may have been the problem.

There should be no vertical play in the start shaft.

If the clutch bell and other stuff turns freely, that's all fine, too. If they had spun loose, they would most likely be all bound up.

I believe your cylinder is full of oil, oil doesn't compress well at all, that's why it's used in hydraulic cylinders. Spin the motor over a few times with the plug out, it will blow most of the oil out through the glow plug hole. You should be good to go afterward.-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-19-2009 06:26 AM 11 years ago

0Post 30

b16a2sir

rrNovice

Kelowna, BC - Canada

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I can't turn it by hand. Should I try with my drill? which direction is proper for the motor?

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09-19-2009 09:52 AM 11 years ago

0Post 31

BigBobby

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Yass NSW Australia

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If you can't turn the engine over by hand, remove it and strip it for inspection. Turning it over by a drill could wreck it.A few helis, this and that

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09-19-2009 03:53 PM 11 years ago

0Post 32

b16a2sir

rrNovice

Kelowna, BC - Canada

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OK, I will remove engine. Any tips on the easiest way to get out? I haven't found a manual yet.

off topic, what is FAI stand for or mean?

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09-19-2009 11:31 PM 11 years ago

0Post 33

Thomas L Erb

rrKey Veteran

Alliance ohio

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here is the manual

http://www.rchelibase.com/xcell/expert.pdf

Tom

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09-20-2009 10:16 AM 11 years ago

0Post 34

BigBobby

rrApprentice

Yass NSW Australia

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FAI?
Have a look in here.
http://www.runryder.com/f102p1/A few helis, this and that

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09-20-2009 01:35 PM 11 years ago

0Post 35

Thomas L Erb

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Alliance ohio

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To add to Bigbobbys post look here http://www.fai.org/ . It mostly is used here to describe a style of flying and also a form of competition that exist as is governed all over the world by the FAI organization. In the US we also have 3 classes of this style of competition governed by the AMA . It involves precision type maneuvers from hovering to aerobatics. Each class has its specific maneuvers. The US classes are Class I II and III with FAI being the highest class. The difficultly of each class is higher as you go up the chain. You can see the maneuvers here for the AMA classes

http://www.modelaircraft.org/files/...chelicopter.pdf

and use the FAI link above to see the F3C rules for the FAI class.

Mark has many vids of the lastest world heli constest flown here in the US.
http://www.runryder.com/rrTV-Photo/contest/WORLDS2009/

plus read thru the post that bobby listed.

Tom

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10-10-2009 08:50 PM 11 years ago

0Post 36

b16a2sir

rrNovice

Kelowna, BC - Canada

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Thanks for the links on FAI. I am not ready for that yet!

So I have received a new regulator 2n1 igniter, full range receiver, tail servo, voltage step down for tail, and the starter shaft should be here this coming week.

I finally removed the engine and it was seized. So after opening it up and clearing the crud in it. A little degreaser and I was able to rotate it and clean it out. It now spins smoothly but has a couple stains or rust marks. I think it should be fine as it feels smooth.

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10-10-2009 09:54 PM 11 years ago

0Post 37

dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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It looks as if the previous owner used castor oil-based lube in his fuel.

If I get hold of a used motor, my first step is to disassemble it, clean it, inspect the innards and replace any bad parts. Your 50 looks to be in fairly good shape.

Were those pictures taken before or after you got it to turn over? If you haven't taken it apart to clean all that yellow stuff out, and visually inspect the rear bearing, now would be the time to do so, before you put it in the heli.

If the carb is anything like the rest of the motor, you might consider taking it apart and cleaning it up, as well.-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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10-11-2009 12:15 AM 11 years ago

0Post 38

b16a2sir

rrNovice

Kelowna, BC - Canada

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Those pics are after I got it freed up and rotating smoothly.

Should I look at getting the yellow off? or will it just burn away? I think I will let is soak in more degreaser and fill up the crank case with it, et it sit over night. \

I didn't think about the carb, but I will remove it and clean it too! I was prepared to buy a new engine when I removed it from the heli and it was solid.

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10-11-2009 01:25 AM 11 years ago

0Post 39

dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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You'll want to remove the gunk before running the motor. If it's old castor oil residue, it will go gummy and make the motor run really bad.

There are two great ways to get that motor clean and ready to go.

1. Find an old crock pot. One that you will never use again for food preparation. Add automotive anti-freeze, put the motor parts (yes, disassemble the motor) to the pot. Plug in, set on low, and let cook on low for two or three hours. Unplug, let cool. Remove the parts, wash in hot water to remove all traces of anti-freeze. Dry the parts, either in your oven or using a heat gun. When dry, reassemble the motor carefully, using liberal amounts of after run oil.

2. Disassemble the motor (yes, that's something you're going to need to do eventually, anyway. Pick up a spray bottle of Dawn Power Dissolver from your local grocery store (it's with the dishwashing powders and liquids). Spray the parts (the stuff is almost a gel and clings well). Let sit about 15 minutes. Rinse well, dry, reassemble using liberal amounts of after run oil.

BEFORE you take the motor apart, use a scribe or other sharp tool to mark the back side of the connecting rod. That way you'll get it back correctly.

Remove the head, pull the cylinder liner. Note that the liner has a small notch in it, that lines up with a pin on the crankcase. That's an important reassembly note.

The piston ring-gap also has a small pin, located at about the 1 o'clock position (front of crankshaft is 'noon'

. Make sure the ring gap is located over that pin prior to reinstalling the cylinder on the piston when putting back together.

With the liner out, carefully turn the crankcase so the piston is at top dead center, then reaching in the rear of the motor, lift the bottom end of the rod off the crankshaft. The piston, wrist pin, and rod all come out the top.

Slide the crankshaft out, you now have access to the bearings and internals of the motor for inspection and cleaning.

Reassemble carefully, in the reverse order of disassembly.-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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10-11-2009 01:54 AM 11 years ago

0Post 40

Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I totally disagree with you on boiling the engine in antifreeze. I have destroyed engines that way, so I certainly don't recommend you do it.

Soaking it is denatured alcohol (or fresh fuel) for a couple of days may dissolve the varnish off the piston and will not harm anything else.

The crock pot trick will turn the aluminum on your engine dark, and if you do it too hot, it will turn it black. The only way to make the crock pot trick work is to very carefully boil it in antifreeze (the green ethylene glycol kind, not the yellow propylene glycol kind) so that it is always under the level of the antifreeze. Never let a part get above the liquid, and don't let it get too hot.

Once again, I strongly caution you NOT to boil your engine in a crock pot!!

Just soak it in a cup of fresh fuel for awhile. That would be best.Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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