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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHIROBOHirobo Freya › Freya X spec balance problem
09-20-2009 01:34 PM  11 years ago
Mike0251

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Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

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Aaron, that is exactly what everyone is talking about and I too have been there. So relax, make sure you have quiet and the wife/kids aren't yapping at ya and shut the door.
I used a nice drill vise (heavy) to hold the engine on the sides of its flanges. Lightly oil the engine shaft, place washer on it and then the collet and hub. Lightly snug the nut. Check runout. If runout is large, reposition the hub until you get it the closest you can. That could be several times. Remember we are just lightly snugging the nut at this time. When you have it as close as you can get it, mark on the face of the hub the high point. Now using a wood dowel or plastic dowel (1/2" in dia), tap the face of the hub opposite of your high point mark. And that would be using a hammer to hit the dowel. Check runout. It moved didn't it, and got better, and continue to get at least .0005. Ok now lets tighten that nut just a bit more and repeat the above. You should sneak up on tightening that nut at least 5 times to reach the final state of torque. Do not try and torque to what Hirobo calls for, its way to tight and will just screw things all up. I use a little locktite on that nut as well (blue). At every stage of tightening that nut you will have to tap the flange, and sometimes that could amount to a good wack as the nut gets tighter! You will see that you whack it in the same place too, 180 from the high point mark (hence the threads on the shaft issue as Ben mentions). Or always from the high point if it moved, but it shouldn't. You may want to put the engine assy in your lap when it gets time to whack it with any force so as not to induce or hurt it in the vise. After you tighten the nut to a point that you feel its tight enough and you have to whack it the last time and it comes into .0005 runout or better, your done. I could not get it better than a 1/2 thousand with the YS ST. The above procedure could take as long as 2 hours depending on your intital fit of the fan. It will take all day and be frustrating if you do not have peace and quiet...lol. I refuse to do this when the wife is around. Whats tight enough? Like a prop nut on a plane or not quite that much.
Now the clutch shaft. Gee I got to stack another 2" long shaft on this and get that right too? Yup. As you can see it fits one way or 180. Find the best result first. Put it on, measure runout, and check it the other way as well. Lightly tighten the two screws. Use the best result. Now it gets interesting. Some guys will carve out the inside of the fan hub to position this thing more freely. I do not like that, its ugly and you loose the clutch boss to fan hub nice fit. Again, I find the high spot on runout and mark it. I use a thin piece of tin foil and that comes in different thicknesses depending on the brand, is it heavy duty, etc. I use the thinest to start with. Cut a small piece and put it under the clutch where it sits against the hub, at the high point side, this will straighten it out. It is fine if its big and sticks out as you can trim it later. And the bolt may have to pass thru it as well. Experiment, and get this to at least .0005 as well. Use as much tinfoil as required or different thicknesses. It took one thin piece to get mine in. Also use loctite on the screws when you get this dialed in. All together, this can take time too and it is important that you take the time to make it right. If you get frustrated, walk away, reflect on what your readings/findings are that you seen to date, and come back to it when your ready and calm. This is what has worked for me and I did not hurt any parts in the process...lol, or yell at the wife.
If you can't get it, send it to Terry as he offered!
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09-21-2009 07:24 AM  11 years ago
shahar_lz

rrNovice

Israel

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I use a thin piece of tin foil and that comes in different thicknesses depending on the brand, is it heavy duty, etc. I use the thinest to start with. Cut a small piece and put it under the clutch where it sits against the hub, at the high point side, this will straighten it out.
Where can we buy this tin foil ?
I tried using small paper pieces but that was to much.

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09-21-2009 10:32 AM  11 years ago
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

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Grocery store, its what the wife uses in the kitchen, Renolds Wrap, or any ultra thin shim material from a machine shop. Paper is to thick.
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09-21-2009 01:02 PM  11 years ago
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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To clarify further for those not in the US, Mike is referring to household aluminum foil, colloquially called "tin foil".

Shim material for this application should be no more than 0.001-0.002" thick.

Ben Minor
Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
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09-21-2009 07:53 PM  11 years ago
shahar_lz

rrNovice

Israel

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Thank you very much for that information.
That might be very helpfull while dial indicating the cluth and could do the job very easy.

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09-22-2009 12:55 AM  11 years ago
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Mike is pretty much on the same page as me, but if you search the thread "Dial Indicating Evo 90", you can read my narrative on the subject. I think I entered the discussion by the second page.

Ben Minor
Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
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09-22-2009 09:02 PM  11 years ago
shahar_lz

rrNovice

Israel

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Works like magic.
I have just dialed my clutch shaft from 0.004" to 0.001" in 5 minutes using tin foil.

Thank you very much for the Tip.

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