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HomeAircraftHelicopterAudacity Models P6 Pantera - Tiger 50 › New Build - Questions
06-05-2009 04:50 PM  9 years agoPost 1
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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This is my first heli build. I've wanted to do this for 10 years. Needless to say, I'm stoked.

Here is my first question: On step 1, the clutch bell assembly, the manual says to use blue thread locker on the clutch bell bearing (which is the bearing on the bottom in the picture, the M6x12x4). This bearing is already installed on my clutch bell. The top bearing (M10x19x7) is not installed. Do I need to remove the bottom bearing and reinstall it with thread locker or has this already been done?

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06-05-2009 05:01 PM  9 years agoPost 2
petmotel

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DeKalb, IL.

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You shouldn't need to remove the bearing. I checked, mine was loctited.

Jay

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06-05-2009 05:20 PM  9 years agoPost 3
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Awesome, Jay. Thanks!

Question 2: Should that bearing (the top one, the bigger of the two) sit flush with the top of the pinion?

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06-05-2009 09:23 PM  9 years agoPost 4
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Question 3: How do I get the rubber grommet inside the fuel tank? I assume this grommet goes into the tank with the bigger diameter side outside of the tank (the manual picture isn't clear about this, but this is the only orientation that makes sense to me). Currently, I have all of the pieces together (fuel hose, feed nipple, washer, and nut) and just need to get it in the tank. Do I need to take these apart and "rebuild" it when the grommet is already in the tank?

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06-05-2009 11:18 PM  9 years agoPost 5
petmotel

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DeKalb, IL.

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Q2- yes all the way on pinion, about flush on top

Q3-tank assembly. Run the nut all the way on the plastic nipple a couple of times without the grommet on it. This will make it much easier to assemble later.

Check clunk hose length, put hose on nipple and clunk. I like to use a small length of regular fuel line as a clamp over both ends of the clunk hose.

Put plastic nipple through small end of grommet, put on washer and just start nut on nipple. Push grommet with nipple though hole in tank, you might need to use a smooth rounded instrument to help get the grommet through hole in tank.

Now if you ran the nut on, and off the nipple a couple of times, you should be able to hand tighten the nut far enough to get wrenches on the nipple flat, and nut. Tighten it just enough to seal.

Jay

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06-06-2009 12:09 AM  9 years agoPost 6
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to get some work done and hopefully get back to the build tonight!

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06-06-2009 01:02 AM  9 years agoPost 7
Mr.HillBilly

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Salesville, OH - USA

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If you are running a YS make it tighter. Also if you put on the fuel line that runs to the carb. you can pull on it some what to help thread the nut on without it turning.

Gus came up with another idea, use the extra fuel line to pull and then use a socket to tighten run the fuel line through the socket and turn by hand. After it get semi tight you can push the nut towards the tank and tighten it.

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06-06-2009 01:47 AM  9 years agoPost 8
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Success on both counts! Thanks! More questions as they come up...

I am actually going to run the YS, so I'll go back and make sure that nut is a touch tighter. I believe you're recommending this because the YS makes quite a bit of pressure, no?

I just put an order through John's site for the snorkel, fuel shut off clamps, 3 way fuel filter, and a header tank. Today I'll be picking up some green loctite (didn't even know they made green) and tonight I'll get the tail pinion assembly started. So far, I'm not sure which I enjoy more, building airplanes or helicopters. This is such a fun new experience!

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06-06-2009 05:54 PM  9 years agoPost 9
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Question 4: Stores in Reno apparently refuse to carry green loctite. Will red or blue suffice for the areas that require green? If so, which should I go with, blue or red? If not, I guess I'll just find an online retailer and order some...

Question 5: Augh! The tail pinion pulley has pulled apart into two pieces. What do I do? Can I epoxy these back together? Basically the bottom of the pulley pulled out of the inside of the gear part, so I'm sitting here looking at two pieces, one of which slides inside of the other. ...help?

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06-07-2009 12:09 AM  9 years agoPost 10
Mr.HillBilly

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Salesville, OH - USA

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You can use the red locktight BUT you need to be quick on getting everything together. If I remember right the red starts to set up in 15 mins. so I would say you need to stop messing with it after about 5 mins. The green is just used mostly for wicking (sucking itself into parts that are already tightened.

Not sure on the tail shaft I will go take a look at one of my extras.

Also are you talking about the tail shaft, or the drive system inside the frame.

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06-07-2009 12:25 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Just got off the phone with John. It seems this pulley is actually two pieces and the screw that goes in the top keeps it together. Also, the shaft that goes through this pulley isn't round - i.e., both pieces cannot separate.

Thanks for the info regarding the red locktite. I guess I'll go that route for the shaft given that green locktite is extinct in Reno.

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06-07-2009 12:36 AM  9 years agoPost 12
ProModeler

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Sanford, FL (Orlando area)

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Wait a minute there. Use red at your peril, it's permanent stuff without the application of heat. For this screw, use blue. Go to an autoparts store and ask him to order you a bottle of Locktite 290, a small 15 ml bottle will last a long time.


John Beech
AMA # 47381
IRCHA #745

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06-07-2009 01:21 AM  9 years agoPost 13
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Is blue thread locker okay for this step of assembly (the tail pinion assembly) instead of the green? A bottle of green is 10 bucks and another 10 for shipping. That's 20 bucks for a 10 oz bottle of thread locker.

I'll get the green if I need to, but damn that seems like a huge waste of $20 bucks for such a small item.

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06-07-2009 01:34 AM  9 years agoPost 14
ProModeler

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Sanford, FL (Orlando area)

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You and 10 guys will die before you use a 10oz bottle of wicking green thread locker. A 15 mililiter bottle (1/2 oz) is plenty for years. Go to a local automobile parts store - they'll have it.


John Beech
AMA # 47381
IRCHA #745

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06-07-2009 01:43 AM  9 years agoPost 15
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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6 ml bottle ordered...

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06-07-2009 10:45 AM  9 years agoPost 16
Pinecone

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Maryalnd

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Heck you can get it from Amazon, amoung others.

http://www.google.com/search?client...=utf-8&oe=utf-8

If youa e ordering Loctite, I would also order 638 and 609 also. Very nice to have around.

As to large bottles of Loctite, I bought a large bottle (only size available at the time) to build my first car engine. I am still using that same bottle. And it has been almost 40 YEARS.

Terry
Blade CP Trex 450 SE
QJ EP8v2 EX Gaui Hurricane 550
Vibe 50 Bergen Intrepid Gasser

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06-07-2009 03:44 PM  9 years agoPost 17
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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Lol, that's a long time to be on the same bottle! Well, I already placed my order and went with one of the smaller bottles, but the next time I place an order, I'll probably go with something bigger.

Question 6: When I assemble the tail pulley and loctite it to the bearing blocks, do I need to immediately put those bearing blocks in the frames and screw everything together? It occurred to me while studying the parts and manual that I don't know how far on the shaft (on either end) the bearing needs to be loctited - and the only way to know I got it perfect is to build everything else on step 5 in the manual, do this part last, and quickly assemble the side frames before the loctite has a chance to dry in the potentially wrong spot. Does this make sense? Can someone walk me through this step? (I had no idea when I started this build that I would have this many questions...)

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06-07-2009 06:12 PM  9 years agoPost 18
Mr.HillBilly

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Salesville, OH - USA

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Clean the shafts, then install into the frames, and a drop. Do not get carried away with the green it is like water and it will get into the bearings easy.

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06-07-2009 06:34 PM  9 years agoPost 19
Triguy

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Houston, TX

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So are you saying to install the tail pulley assembly in the frame and THEN add a drop of loctite?

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06-08-2009 02:55 AM  9 years agoPost 20
Mr.HillBilly

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Salesville, OH - USA

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What I did with mine is I put everything into the frame, found where they went, pulled it back out moved bearing just a bit and dabbed some green on it and slide the bearing back up. When you get the green you wll see how thin it is, a little will go a long ways. If you are careful you should be able to just drip a little on the shaft with it in the frame and it will do its thing, or do the way I did above.

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