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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOHirobo Turbulence › Best paddles for the Turbulence D3
06-05-2009 04:44 PM  9 years agoPost 21
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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I am using the Hirobo 3D paddles on my Turbulence. I ordered mine from RC Champ in Japan. These paddle weight at 20gms which makes the D3 more responsive than the stock plastic paddles without any weight. Hirobo also has F3C paddle which has exactly the same shape but fully carbon look and weight 40gms. I have tried these paddles on the D3 as well but they were too "stable".

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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08-05-2009 05:24 AM  9 years agoPost 22
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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How do the Hirobo silver 3d paddles stack up against the funtech paddles/Superstubz/MAH and stock paddles?

I'm after the best paddles for my Turbulence.

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08-05-2009 07:45 AM  9 years agoPost 23
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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Ok, i've done a lot of research and was wondering if the Funtech paddles outperform the SWE60DP-4 paddles(24grams 120mm long)?

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08-05-2009 09:38 PM  9 years agoPost 24
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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from the picture, I think SWE copy the Hirobo 3D paddle almost exactly in term of shape but I don't like the color.

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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08-05-2009 11:23 PM  9 years agoPost 25
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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I think SWE are actually the OEM supplier for Hirobo in terms of blades and paddles(they maybe the same paddle except colour). The pink isn't as cool as the silver though. Has anyone tried these?

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08-05-2009 11:37 PM  9 years agoPost 26
dogg5306

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Brussels, Belgium

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Paddles choice depends on your flying style...
Weight and shape (i.e. dimensions) should be considered as they will impact cyclic's behavior just as the flybar lenght...

Should you select CYE Super Stubz with no additional weight and the longest flybar... and high rpm on the main rotor level and you'll get a very agile, nasty beast... problem it may be pitchy and highly influenced by the wind...

On the contrary, if you select 40g paddles and the shortest flybar coupled to a low rpm... you'll get a very docile machine able to handle F3C moves...

(and I'm not speaking about head's ratios yet... or tx dual rates and main blades)

So it's really up to you... try and see if it fits... a combo might be ok for someone and not for you...

It's way more enjoyable to try by yourself (more expensive too...)

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08-07-2009 12:53 AM  9 years agoPost 27
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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Hi Dogg5306,

I am well aware of the effect of the longer flybar/lighter/bigger paddles, however, unless you have the money to spend on 4 different types of paddles (the hirobo ones are $130US unless I buy the pink SWE OEM version(I like the silver though)) then I try to use where I can other peoples time testing/knowledge. The length of the flybar/paddle combo is also different from rotor head to rotor head so all these questions are specific to the SSZ-IV.

I have tried the 555mm fly bar and 535 mm flybar as well as the stock paddles with no weights at each length and have narrowed down to the 535mm flybar being he best fit so far for me. I'm now just trying to optise the paddle itself, get max cyclic response (I know the paddle just effects the travel to full cyclic pitch and then it is cyclic pitch itself that determines the continous roll rate).

I have the stock paddles, no weights, big ends(L25) on it at the moment and with +-13 with swash mix at Aileron 40 elev 40 pitch 45 and the combo works reall well, however, I think it is a tad pitchy. I know this can be fixed by adjusting the paddles a bit so was just after options. I know the silver hirobo paddles are shorted at than the stock paddles with L25 ends so maybe the middle stock paddle extension cap maybe better?? On my freya (SSZ-IV head) with the stock paddles with the small ends (Everything else the same above), it performed very well. I may play with the cap ends, I think the weight of the paddle with no weights is close to right for me so it's just the length of the paddle now. Someone must have done a lot of experimenting with the right paddles for the Turbulence?? I love the heli, the way it fly's is very different, took a bit of getting used to after my Freya Evo OP2, it's very powerfull in all fassets

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07-06-2010 04:05 PM  8 years agoPost 28
gorn

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Western Australia

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Old thread I know, but thought Id add what paddles Im going to try with my D3 EX.
Just ordered a set of Rotortech 3d paddles, have heard good things about them.
Always wanted to try them, but have been messing with flybarless lately.
Love aggressive 3d, so we will see how they go

Need more time to finish my EX off too lol

For the love of the hobby

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07-06-2010 04:22 PM  8 years agoPost 29
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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I'm very happy with Rotor Tech 3D paddles on SDX. It should be very good on the Turbulence also.

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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07-06-2010 11:51 PM  8 years agoPost 30
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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Hi Gorn,

I have a set of the rotortech's and they fly really nicely as well, I sent my silver paddles over your way for Tom Denner to have a try of a while back as well. It's good having a selection of paddles just to mix things up, how's the D3 Ex coming along? That's awesome mate! I still love flying mine, I've got the flybarless conversion kit but haven't bothered with it just yet as the heli is flying really well as it is. I've got a set of edge 713's I'm about to try out as well as I got sick of waiting for the new Vblade 710's.

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07-07-2010 01:26 PM  8 years agoPost 31
gorn

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Western Australia

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Hi Brendan
The build is taking longer than usual, as Im now actually working for Brian at Perth RC, so time is short.
I leave home at 7am, get back home at 7.30PM.
Lucky me, I live about 86km away from the shop lol.
All good though.

So far this week, Ive built the entire head, and majority of the tail too.
Ive also been killing myself with CA fumes from coating the exposed edges of the carbon frames.
Looks much nicer, and Brian assures me that the frames are less likely to delaminate in the event of a crash.

The parts count is higher than my Trex 700, but I keep finding myself thinking "hmm thats a nice touch, that bits clever, that fits perfectly" etc etc.

So Im really enjoying the build.

Mine will be flybarless when version 5 of the Vstabi is released, so flybar will do in the meantime.
Ive had my 700 flybarless with a cheaper Kung Pow FBL unit for a while now.
While its no polished Vstabi, Im hooked on FBL.

Lets see if the D3 can impress me enough to stay flybar

You mention a FBL conversion kit??
Where from, or what parts did you use?

Cheers

For the love of the hobby

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07-08-2010 03:57 AM  8 years agoPost 32
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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That's awesome Gorn, so you work with Jack? I got the conversion from world of heli de, but I think Brian has them there as well. Not much too it, basically comes with the washout bit for FBL, and longer ball extensions to go into the grip arms, I think it's so you get the proper resolution.

The other option is to use the SSZ-VII arms (I think that's right) onto the SSZ-IV grips, this will give you a side mounted ball with zero offset (just play around with the different ball sizes). Not sure how this affects the resolution with the travel etc though as I haven't done it yet. I'll probably convert it to FBL one day, but fly's great as it is at the moment send some pics when you get it in the air!

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07-08-2010 05:12 AM  8 years agoPost 33
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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RE the pitch arm, this would be one to consider: http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=414227

The arm has 0 degrees of offset. Hirobo often has offset built into the centerline of the pitch arms for their FAI heads to play well with washout blades, which would be ill advised for a 3D model.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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07-08-2010 06:42 AM  8 years agoPost 34
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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that's the one i've got a set of them as well ready to go

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07-08-2010 01:28 PM  8 years agoPost 35
gorn

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Western Australia

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Hi Brendan
yes, Jack got back from Japan today.

I found a an Eagle F3C arm today, but it has an offset to it and would not work.

Thanks for the link Ben, shows what I was looking for.

I dont think that arm will work properly though, as Mikado have told Brian that 31mm is the magic flybarless number for 50s and 90s.

So 31mm offset from center of the head.

I measured the stock D3 arms today, comes to 21.5mm.
The arms mentioned above will be a touch further out because of the angled tip.
But not quite far enough I think.

I will be using the Mikado 600 FBL washout base assembly, and some Hirobo standoff balls that are 9.5mm to the center of the ball.
So this will give exactly 31mm from center of the head.

Will be interesting to see how both versions work out though, as I would much prefer to use a grip arm like the Eagle one, but only if it provides correct geometry.

Cheers

For the love of the hobby

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07-09-2010 01:42 AM  8 years agoPost 36
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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