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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Burning up an OS 50 motor continuously
06-01-2009 01:56 PM  9 years agoPost 21
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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I too start at about 2.5 turns and move in 2 or 3 clicks on each successive flight. It's nice and gradual, and the engine should be getting close after about a gallon while good power gets established over the next half a gallon. The inital rich setting makes for good unexpected auto practice
Improper Thrust bearings in the Main grips can cause motor damage?
probably because it helps the heli to explode and the engine injests dirt on impact

Vegetable rights and Peace

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06-01-2009 02:48 PM  9 years agoPost 22
woop

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toronto, canada

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Man the governor should get disconnected while breaking in a new motor.thats the problem the governor is trying to increase the throttle all the way i bet to achieve the desired headspeed wich the motor not capabale of producing yet at the rich break in setting.good luck

Powered by Rotorquest

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06-01-2009 04:50 PM  9 years agoPost 23
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Brian... heli motors run hotter (the cooling, in spite of the big head on the Hyper) is still limited, causing the motor to run at higher average temps than your average plank or RC car motor.

Heli motors are usually required to run at or near peak power output over the duration of a tank of fuel. Pitch and throttle curves (or a governor/rev limiter) are designed to maintain constant head speed no matter what's going on with your thumbs. This translates to a lot of high-RPM, high-power output operation, something the average plank or RC car engine doesn't necessaril endure.

The break-in environment for a heli motor is unlike that of your car or plank motor. It's harsh, and it's less forgiving.

The advice to start out rich and go slow with the break-in process is something many hear, but not so many listen to.

If this fellow is running 30% nitro fuel, starting at 1.5 turns open, then leaning out a couple of clicks over the next few flights, and engaging the governor from the git-go, he's found the recipe for certain disaster. He might as well just take his new Hyper out of the box and start wailing away at it with a hammer. The results will be the same, in about the same amount of time.

You fry pistons by being too lean. There aren't many other plausible explanations.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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06-01-2009 04:59 PM  9 years agoPost 24
Quicktoy

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Venice, FL USA

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sorry guys I wrote the first post when I just had woken up. I meant to say I started at 2.5 not 1.5 turns out for break in for starters. I run rotorage 30% and governor has been disconnected on the new motor. The motor was running cool. I had literally felt the crank case a minute before the newer motor had popped.
Now you have to remember. the old motor had about 3-4 gallons through it, was running great and then pop. Since the first motor popped I replaced the fuel tank, lines and filter.
third motor is in it now (first motor with new bearing, piston and ring) and with governor disconnected its just not running right. It'll run good, then it'll bog then it'll run good.
I think Im going to check the clutch and see if that might be the problem

Srimok, Goblin 770, Avant Aurora, Trex 700 Suzi Hans, 700 LE, 700 FBL, Trex 450 Dominator X2, HC500, and a crap ton of parts with no time to fly! :)

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06-01-2009 08:33 PM  9 years agoPost 25
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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You either have excessive drag in the drive train, or you are running too lean.

Chris

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06-02-2009 01:35 AM  9 years agoPost 26
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Insanity has been described as doing the same thing over and over again, while expecting different results.

Richen up your needles, (30% nitro needs a richer setting than 15%). Break in gently. Enjoy.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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06-02-2009 01:40 AM  9 years agoPost 27
rudyy

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E. Amherst, NY

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Not sure how your overall engine break in process is like. If you say you start at 2.5 turn, then it should be fine. Perhaps, you lean too fast down to 1.5 turn and you fry the piston. You should have leaned down to 1.5 turn after 7 or 8 tanks of fuel.

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06-02-2009 01:41 AM  9 years agoPost 28
Quicktoy

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Venice, FL USA

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I don't think anyone understands. IT's NOT the mixture!!! something else is leaning the motor out and looking for ideas. The first motor popped and was running cool and was at 1 and a half turns out with many gallons through it

Srimok, Goblin 770, Avant Aurora, Trex 700 Suzi Hans, 700 LE, 700 FBL, Trex 450 Dominator X2, HC500, and a crap ton of parts with no time to fly! :)

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06-02-2009 02:03 AM  9 years agoPost 29
AltecLansing

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North Carolina

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I'll say again, clunk, fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel filter, and muffler nipple.

Check the head bolts to make sure they are tight too.

Man, I miss the eighties.

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06-02-2009 02:05 AM  9 years agoPost 30
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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You are not getting it for the piston to melt it has to have been too hot, period. I don't care where the needle was or is.

Chris

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06-02-2009 02:09 AM  9 years agoPost 31
Quicktoy

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Venice, FL USA

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You are not getting it for the piston to melt it has to have been too hot, period. I don't care where the needle was or is.
EXXXACTLY. new clunk is sitting in new tank right in the back right lower corner. maybe its blocking the inlet.

Srimok, Goblin 770, Avant Aurora, Trex 700 Suzi Hans, 700 LE, 700 FBL, Trex 450 Dominator X2, HC500, and a crap ton of parts with no time to fly! :)

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06-02-2009 02:12 AM  9 years agoPost 32
Quicktoy

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Venice, FL USA

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I'll say again, clunk, fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel filter, and muffler nipple.
threw a new pipe on yesterday and nipple is perfect, so im thinking either clunk or clutch. I just yanked the clutch and motor. On the 600s should there be a little drag of the clutch liner against the clutch plate (round disc that attaches to motor) when Im just sitting there holding it? or should there be a total gap so it should spin freely? clutch liner has plenty of meat left. Should I just bow in the clutch plate a hair?

Srimok, Goblin 770, Avant Aurora, Trex 700 Suzi Hans, 700 LE, 700 FBL, Trex 450 Dominator X2, HC500, and a crap ton of parts with no time to fly! :)

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06-02-2009 05:00 AM  9 years agoPost 33
aadams1278

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Wilson, NC - USA

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i'm no expert here, and don't claim to be, but i just want to clarify that you're not talking about piston damage due to using a piston lock tool (in the glow plug hole) are you?

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06-02-2009 05:02 AM  9 years agoPost 34
Quicktoy

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Venice, FL USA

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Lmao no a piston lock tool won't even fit inside the head. These are paitons that grenades while flying

Srimok, Goblin 770, Avant Aurora, Trex 700 Suzi Hans, 700 LE, 700 FBL, Trex 450 Dominator X2, HC500, and a crap ton of parts with no time to fly! :)

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06-02-2009 05:04 AM  9 years agoPost 35
ch-47c

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san jose, ca

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Is your carb base o-ring good and not extruded?

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06-02-2009 06:01 AM  9 years agoPost 36
David Blain

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Mt. Dora, Florida (USA)

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ch-47c
Good advice, Quicktoy make sure the rubber O ring gasket is well seated and not damaged, additionally make sure the bolt holding the carb in is tight!!!!! The carbs come from OS loose, just like every other bolt on the Hyper!

so as my first post said, CHECK EVERY BOLT ON THE ENGINE!

We have discussed fuel, fuel lines, governors but I may have missed you saying that you have done a "once over" check on every single bolt (including exhaust bolts/leaks)!

Let us know how your making out!

I fly in at TORCHS west field in Winter Garden,(West side Orlando). If you can not find the problem, PM me and we can meet at the field and have four or five of the PRO guys look at it and get you fixed up!

Just an offer.....

David Blain
T.O.R.C.H.S. Orlando Member

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06-02-2009 12:28 PM  9 years agoPost 37
Helos4Me

rrNovice

San Diego, CA. USA

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Head Shim
This may sound dumb but do these engines have the brass head shim in place? If not ignition timing will be very advanced. Second like mentioned earlier, look for vacuum leaks- carb, back plate. Third, make sure the washer is installed under the fan. If the fan is rubbing on the bearing shield then that will cause a lot of drag. Fourth, if the piston ring isn't lined up with the tiny dowel pin you'll have trouble, and it may run for a while. Fifth, strip the carb down to all its individual pieces and there is no dirt blocking any port like the little tube that sticks out of the throttle barrel that can't be removed. Blast carb cleaner or compressed air through every hole (watch your eyes). And as mentioned before check the clunk line, no safety wire to keep it from falling off. Slip on a second piece of fuel line. Forget all the complicated break in crap on these motors. Start at the factory setting of 1.5 turns out +-2 clicks, idle adjust centered. Then just hover to check the basic mixture settings and fly. No heavy 3D, just light power changes for 3-4 tanks. These engines make good power at this point. The back plate should be slightly warm, not cold and not stinging hot. Remember it takes more power to hover than to fly. The basics are just that, if they aren't correct then nothing else matters.
Good hunting.

To Fly Is Heavenly, To Hover Divine!

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06-02-2009 05:54 PM  9 years agoPost 38
Quicktoy

rrApprentice

Venice, FL USA

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pull and pitch thankyou for the offer. Im going to run it over to bobby at RREmodels.com and have him take a look at it. I really think its the clutch as its not disengaging

Srimok, Goblin 770, Avant Aurora, Trex 700 Suzi Hans, 700 LE, 700 FBL, Trex 450 Dominator X2, HC500, and a crap ton of parts with no time to fly! :)

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06-02-2009 09:31 PM  9 years agoPost 39
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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I have seen guys with new choppers where the clutch is not seated properly and it causes drag then you have to run leaner to get the engine to keep running and it then over heats, same with the tail belt too tight and will bog drive train causes overheating.
I had a similar problem with my REX 600 turned out to be clutch liner was too thick clutch would grab too soon and engine would die so I leaned it out to get higher starting rpm's and had all kinds of problems then I cut down the clutch liner and cured my problem.
It's not the clutch. Notice this guy said he leaned the engine to keep running which I personally wouldn't do but I could see how some may see it as a rich condition if the motor kept dying after start but obviously there would be drag on the head and you wouldn't lean the motor to compenstate. If it were due to the clutch it would be because you have leaned it. You are saying it's not mixture....sorry...you are wrong.

Spend your time looking for your lean condition...that blows holes in pistons.

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06-10-2009 03:46 AM  9 years agoPost 40
Dwntyme

rrApprentice

U.S.A.

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Man the governor should get disconnected while breaking in a new motor.thats the problem the governor is trying to increase the throttle all the way i bet to achieve the desired headspeed wich the motor not capabale of producing yet at the rich break in setting.good luck
It all depends on which GOV you are using. I run in my ENGINE with the ATG v3 which is able to have multible headspeeds in different flight modes.
Normal:1850
Idle 1: 1950
Idle 2: 2150

during break in I kept the flight mode switch in Normal mode which is about where you would be at without a GOV.

With that said yeah if you go out and exspect to stick bang right out of the box with headspeed set at 2100 you will have issues.

one thing I have noticed that has not been mentioned (unless I missed something) is to check to see if your head bolts are tight of that your carb is seated completely, back plate screws tight....pressure line from pipe to tank is clear as well as the inlet in the tank...

Love a Twitchy Heli.... :) and Remmington Model 700

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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Burning up an OS 50 motor continuously
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