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04-27-2009 01:01 AM  9 years agoPost 1
Justin Stuart (RIP)

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Plano, Texas

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How can I be sure I have the correct gear lash between the clutch pinion and the main gear on my Spectra-G? I put a piece of paper between the two and slid them together before I tightened all the screws. Now when I run another piece of paper between the two gears, it gets folded like an accordion, but does not get cut to pieces now is it wavy. Examining the gears, the tooth of the pinion gear presses into the groove in the main gear leaving at most 0.5mm space between the two. It looks good to me. The gears spin together freely. Here is what the paper looks after going through the gears.

Does this look correct? I don't want it too loose, but I also don't want it too tight. How do I know when it is just right?

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04-27-2009 01:49 AM  9 years agoPost 2
CNCjunkie

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Kauai (The Garden Isle), Hawaii - USA

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The idea is to have the paper intact and not cut. The piece of paper you show after passing through the mesh looks good.

The way I set up the mesh is to have no binding during a full rotation of the main gear. Taking into consideration the gear teeth are not cut perfectly the same through out the entire circumference, you may have a small amount of free play between the gears in most paces, but may have none in one or two places. As long as there is no binding, I call it good.

Just another crappy day in Paradise....Aloha!

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04-27-2009 01:49 AM  9 years agoPost 3
Carey Shurley

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Orlando, FL - USA

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thats it

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04-27-2009 01:55 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I know with the electrics when the lash is too tight, the motor gets real hot, and when it is too loose the teeth start to break. But with a gasser (and the big gears), what are the symptoms of either too tight or too loose a gear lash?

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04-27-2009 03:52 AM  9 years agoPost 5
Toadster25

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Iowa

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The gear mesh isn't really adjustable on the spectra unless you ovaled out the holes.

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04-27-2009 04:02 AM  9 years agoPost 6
Carey Shurley

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Orlando, FL - USA

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if its too tight, they will be notchy. If they are too loose, you can move them independently by "a lot". I can't quantify that amount.

If you set them with a piece of paper, it should be right. Thats why there are milled ratio plates, they set the mesh perfectly if you follow the process.

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04-27-2009 04:31 AM  9 years agoPost 7
GREYEAGLE

rrElite Veteran

Flat Land's

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First find the maximum radial runnout of the main gear.
You really shouldn't just randomly send the paper thru the pinch points between the gears unless youve' first identified the maximum radial runout of the nylon main gear. The gear is also some what dynamic when it warms up.

First pull up the pinion and gear and spin the head a few times till you can hear / feel the tight spot. I then mark or indicate this area with a touch of white typewritter correction fluid. It will never change.

That is the area to run the paper thru since it the tightest and the area of maximum radial runnout of the main gear . No two gears are the same. If you radomly picked the low spot when you did it, not checking the radal runnout, the highest spot when it swings around, will be bottomed and thats very bad !

I then also examine the paper after its been thru the pinch points to see if it swings any type of radius indicating a angular mis alighnment propblem." Top mesh = tighter or looser than bottom. This would indicate the two shafts are not pararell in the perpendicular plane.

The paper indicator should exit in a perfect straght line.

Last thing I check is for any type of axial wobble. This can be verified by actually painting the gear with more white out.

After you flown for a while the wear pattern will be clearly idetified after the gear has taken a set and normilized. In some cases it can be adjusted just by a 1/4 turn or so of select flats on the hub bolts.

In a ideal world their should not be any backlash, root bottoming, false bottoming in the case of a worn gear, minimal radial runnout,
and no axial wobble.

It makes a difference, and is pretty easy. Every time I see a few of the other mfg's models with compound gears I shudder.

greyeagle

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04-27-2009 04:50 AM  9 years agoPost 8
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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Thanks for all the help. These explanations are very good.

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04-27-2009 05:27 AM  9 years agoPost 9
CNCjunkie

rrVeteran

Kauai (The Garden Isle), Hawaii - USA

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You really don't need to get technical about setting the mesh. I do it with the head off, so I can spin the mainshaft with my fingers and feel for smoothness. I don't use paper or plastic to set the mesh. I go by feel alone on all my heli's and I've had zero problems.

This is not like a Predator. On the Spectra-G, you could just about bolt everything together with the correct main gear/ratio plate combination and be good to go. All that's required is some fine tuning if you want it perfect. There is just enough play in the frame/ratio plates to accomplish this.

Just another crappy day in Paradise....Aloha!

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04-27-2009 05:38 AM  9 years agoPost 10
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Honestly
I never bothered to widen the holes in order to adjust the mesh in my Spectra. I just bolted everything together "stock" and the gear mesh works fine. 639 flights with no in-flight failure prove it. Minair "did away" with all the gear "fuss" with the Spectra. In the 1005 you had to do the paper thing and adjust the engine with the clutch to main gear and adjust the tail rotor transmission mesh. If you were wrong guess what, STRIP right in flight and you either lose the tail and hope you're good with throttle hold and autos or you lose power to the main rotor and hope you're good with autos just the same!

With the Spectra, just close your eyes while you build it and feel the holes where the screws go in, put them all in and when you're done its perfect.

I'm raising my arms here and swearing the truth: "I never adjusted my gear mesh with the Spectra"

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4225 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3325 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1650 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 504 flts

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04-27-2009 10:40 AM  9 years agoPost 11
kogibankole

rrKey Veteran

albuquerque/ibadan

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if the mesh is too tight you will hear the pinion and main gear on spool up, and im sure you will strip the main gear if its too loose

if im not blade bogging youll find me pack puffing

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04-27-2009 07:36 PM  9 years agoPost 12
carpman

rrVeteran

Spain

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The mesh on my clutch to main gear seems fine, but after a flight I have fine dust particles from the main gear...

Is this normal? It's a new heli with only 1 gallon through it so is it just bedding in?

KEVIN
Trex 500ESP | Trex 600NSP | Trex 700 Gasser | MA Spectra G

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04-27-2009 07:58 PM  9 years agoPost 13
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Yes its normal
It will shed white dust for a while until it breaks in -- they all do that.

Once broken in you will feel some slop between the main gear and the clutch pinion, but that's OK. That's how mine is and it runs fine.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4225 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3325 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1650 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 504 flts

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04-28-2009 05:14 AM  9 years agoPost 14
Excalibur

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Destination: Earth

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The way I set up the mesh is to have no binding during a full rotation of the main gear. Taking into consideration the gear teeth are not cut perfectly the same through out the entire circumference, you may have a small amount of free play between the gears in most paces, but may have none in one or two places. As long as there is no binding, I call it good.
Yup, this works for me too - or just do what Raja and Carey suggest and just put it together with reasonable care and you should be good to go.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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