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04-25-2009 03:57 AM  9 years agoPost 1
Justin Stuart (RIP)

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Plano, Texas

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I have read that the Spectra-G aluminum tail boom will wiggle its way out of the main frames causing the tail rotor to stop spinning. I have read that the CF tail boom does not have this problem, but a CF tail boom is no longer available from Miniature Aircraft. Bob Bice (at Miniature Aircraft) says some people are putting set screws through the side of the main frame into the boom. Raja says he is using Goop in the tail boom clamp.

Can people who have experience with the Spectra-G comment on problems they have had with the tail boom coming loose, and what solutions they used to prevent this from happening.

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04-25-2009 04:29 AM  9 years agoPost 2
pphil611

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South Dakota

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boom
drill a small hole through the frame and boom holder into the boom and put a short screw in it, it wont rotate or slide out anymore.

Spectra-G, MAH, CSM

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04-25-2009 04:50 AM  9 years agoPost 3
TaleGunner

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Deer Park WA

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I just did what raja and other suggested put a wrap of masking tape around the boom. just did a couple of days ago seems to work fine

http://runryder.com/t510431p1/

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Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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04-25-2009 05:26 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Peterr

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Queensland Australia

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I've been Zapping a small piece of 1200 wet and dry to one of the boom clamp halves, it grips the boom a tad harder..
Never had a boom move since.....

E ,N ,G Whiplash's;Spectra G's;Stratus;E&N Razor,Fury 55;Furion6;TSA 600N, 700N, 700G;; Be

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04-25-2009 12:48 PM  9 years agoPost 5
Justin Stuart (RIP)

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Plano, Texas

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I like the idea of using sandpaper, but I am hesitant to use masking tape. It has been my experience that the adhesive in masking tape breaks down in a couple of months when exposed to heat. I am also hesitant to drill any holes in my boom, but this would probably offer a permanent fix so long as the holes were in the right place (and didn't hit the white thing inside).

I read the thread you linked to, TaleGunner. Does the IonX CF boom fit in the Spectra-G? I was told my MA that they no longer sold CF tail booms because they were too expensive to source.

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04-25-2009 12:57 PM  9 years agoPost 6
pgkevet

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Wales

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.can;t say I like the idea of sandpaper..if there is any movement then it risks wideing the inside of the boom housing or sanding the boom (depending which way up it is)

I used a drop of CA on my 600 when that happened.. it cracks adrift easily for changes.. but finally pinned it with a screw and that seems to be the best/safest.. and easy to check that screw is still there.

I also have the 600's boom wrapped with coloured tape each end as a visual indicator - if there is any sign of it backing out there's gonna be a gap starting to show..

pgk

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04-25-2009 03:21 PM  9 years agoPost 7
Justin Stuart (RIP)

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Plano, Texas

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Your observation on the shortcomings of sandpaper makes sense.
I also have the 600's boom wrapped with coloured tape each end as a visual indicator
I use a little stripe of nail polish on every part that has the potential to move. I though that was standard operating procedure?

Did you have to pin the Spectra yet, or only your Trex 600?

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04-25-2009 05:36 PM  9 years agoPost 8
pgkevet

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Wales

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Spectra is unpinned... mind you it's still in bits at the moment.. servos back in, just soldered a new axi on the jewel a few mins ago.. new tank and fittings later this evening..

..still trying to figure the best electronics placement this time and need to buy a relay to complete his killswitch..

All servo cables have had plugs removed/replaced to sheath in better fitting braid.. might as well go the extra mile before the next rebuild <sigh>..

As you can guess there's been the odd delay.. most recently after i shoved my 600's exhaust through it's crankcase..

pgk

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04-25-2009 11:10 PM  9 years agoPost 9
Justin Stuart (RIP)

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Plano, Texas

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All servo cables have had plugs removed/replaced to sheath in better fitting braid.. might as well go the extra mile before the next rebuild <sigh>..
Do you have a picture of this modification?

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04-25-2009 11:45 PM  9 years agoPost 10
pgkevet

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Wales

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Do you have a picture of this modification
..you need a picture of servo braid?

All I did was lift the plastic tabs to pull the plug pins so I could get thinner braid on instead of the gauge you need to sheath over the plugs.. then tidy heatshrink each end.. push the tabs down and refit the pins. It's worth having some spare servo plugs about just in case you damage a tab.. and anyone doing this stuff regularly should keep pins and plugs and a crimp tool handy.

Advantage that it looks better than spiral wrap and protects against chafing.
Disadvantage that the wires are stiffer when sheathed.

I've been worrying the problem of neat wiring in the Spectra this time.. think I;ve finally figured it ..but it won't be done before my vacation.. so a couple of weeks before airorne again...

pgk

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04-26-2009 01:06 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Justin Stuart (RIP)

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Plano, Texas

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I'm just curious how you did the wiring. I am a big fan of neat wiring.

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04-26-2009 06:05 AM  9 years agoPost 12
Excalibur

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Destination: Earth

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Here's the deal. . .

If you start with drilling another hole into the boom, it's one more weak spot that could potentially break from vibration, not to mention ANOTHER screw that could (and probably will) vibrate out. Drilling a hole is a permanent change, whether you use it or not.

Yes, masking tape adhesive CAN break down over time, but the fact that there are a number of people (including a Spectra Guru) using this method already with a proven track record means it should be fairly reliable.

The sandpaper idea has also been proven (I personally used it on my Predator with excellent results) and is probably more reliable than masking tape. I must disagree with PGK, however, because I never saw any evidence of widening the mount or sanding down the boom using this method. It just didn't happen. I used some fine sandpaper that had an adhesive back designed for the Great Planes "Easy Touch" aluminum bar sanders (available in most hobby shops), and it worked perfectly. You just cut a strip and attach it to the tail boom, then assemble it into the mount, and your done. It stays put after you tighten the screws.

Keep us posted on what you decide to do and how it works out.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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04-27-2009 05:45 PM  9 years agoPost 13
LookalikeMike

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the Netherlands

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How about heat shrink on the boom?

Diplomacy is the art of saying "Nice doggie" until you can find a rock.

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04-27-2009 05:51 PM  9 years agoPost 14
TaleGunner

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Deer Park WA

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Seems you guys are going to a lot of trouble when Raja has 2000 flights on masking tape

If you start flying over 200mph move up to duct tape

CRASH! GLUE! REPEAT!
Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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04-27-2009 06:15 PM  9 years agoPost 15
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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How about heat shrink on the boom?
Would this work? Is the problem with aluminum vs. CF the fact that the CF is not as "slippery", or is there a significant size difference between the OD of the two shafts as well? Either way, maybe a little bit of heat shrink would be just the solution.

How about just tightening down the 4 screws that hold the boom real tight and not doing any additional modifications (e.g. tape, sandpaper, heat shrink)? Would this be irresponsible? Has anyone done this and experienced a failure?

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04-27-2009 09:00 PM  9 years agoPost 16
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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Carbon tubes for sale. Hope this helps.
http://www.runryder.com/t511486p1/

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04-27-2009 10:33 PM  9 years agoPost 17
Flyon

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Auburn, California

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If you start flying over 200mph move up to duct tape
Ok, that quote right there is some funny $hit. I haven't done anything to my boom, if it starts to wiggle loose then I'll address it. Of course, I have to fly this thing first.

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04-28-2009 01:30 AM  9 years agoPost 18
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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This is not rocket science guys
Are you trying to find a different solution than all the ones suggested?

Take your pick: screw, tape, goop or sandpaper. If you try shrink tubing and it works, well we'll add it to the list of solutions

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4225 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3325 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1650 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 504 flts

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04-28-2009 02:12 AM  9 years agoPost 19
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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This is not rocket science guys
There may be several ways to skin a cat, but there is also one way which works better than all the others. It's usually a matter of trial and error to find that best way, but maybe it doesn't have to be that way anymore.

If I could go back in time and avoid all of the experiments I did which didn't work, I would probably save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours of my time. The beauty of the internet is that you can find people worldwide who share a similar, narrow interest with you. Therefore, the collective knowledge of the world can be tapped and needless experimentation can be avoided.

Now what's up with the CF tubes for sale?

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04-28-2009 05:09 AM  9 years agoPost 20
Excalibur

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Destination: Earth

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How about just tightening down the 4 screws that hold the boom real tight and not doing any additional modifications (e.g. tape, sandpaper, heat shrink)? Would this be irresponsible? Has anyone done this and experienced a failure?
I wouldn't call it irresponsible, just problematic. When you stress a tube by over-clamping it, you create what is called a "stress riser" in the component. In this case, it will probably be where the tail boom exits the boom clamps. This can make the tube more susceptible to failing prematurely from vibration or sudden shock. Your best bet is still one of the solutions presented already.

I'll bet this wakes ACE up, he may have more to add to explain the situation better.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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