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Next-D › Rave's Hints and Tricks Topic
04-23-2009 03:45 AM  9 years agoPost 1
JSX

rrApprentice

France

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Hi all : )

Here is a topic to follow Sky dancer idea which was, to take his own terms
Maybe we should start a "HINTS" and "TRICKS" thread to consolidate what we've all learned "NOT TO DO"!
I think it's a great idea : ) And we can add too all the good tricks to do to have a Rave in the best condition possible!!

So I start with a few ones I find here on RR:

-BOOM SLIPAGE:

~The 6 mm screw that goes through the side of the boom in the front clamp seems can be replaced by 8 mm screw to avoid this problem
>> rfrom Aox topic.

~My tail case turn a little bit on the boom, whatever the screw lenght I use to maintain it. A small amount of red loctite applied with finger on the boom fix this problem.

-BEVEL GEAR MESH
You will want a small amount of back lash all the way around the large gear. If it is tight it will cause friction. With a small amount of back lash it will finction just fine, and should not strip. Both of those gears are pretty tough.
Brian
>> from Cstoneman topic

~I use a very slim paper piece: it must can be pass thru gears teeth >> this is my right gear mesh.

-CANOPY MOUNTS

Lot of ideas in this Sky dancer topic

-SERVO MOUNTS
I mounted the tabs in servo mounting hole in the frame and dirlled a hole in the other servo tab hole threw the frame...
>> from Boogie Topic

-RODS LENGHT

TO HAVE +/- 14° >>
1. Grind away 1mm from each end of each rod going from servo horn to swash rod correct?

2. Rods from swash to top mixer are to be 46.5mm in distance apart, link to link as shown in manual, correct?

3. 28 and 13mm for measurements for the finals as horns to swash for those specific measurements correct?
>> from Hootool topic

-ELECTRONICS LAYOUT

-Lot of ideas with pics on CarbonCopter and FunkyTrex topics.

-FURIOUS PIRO RATES
The gears are not indestructable, if you do the "blur" pirouettes for much longer than about 3 seconds you can damage the gears from heating. They basically melt a little under extreme heavy loads and can fail easily on the stop. Normal pirouettes and even fast pirouettes should be fine. It is only the blur pirouettes that are a concern
from Curtis on my "blur" topic.

So.... no more than 2 seconds of fun with blurr piro, and try to be smooth on your rudder stick when you stop your tail!!!!!! : ))

If you have other hints and tricks, don't hesitate to post them here for Ravers community

JSX

~¤°Rave~4S/350¤Trex250°¤~

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04-23-2009 04:47 AM  9 years agoPost 2
Sky Dancer

rrVeteran

Bryan, Texas

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For me (when assembling the Rave) I found it a little easier to mount the servos (and glue in the keepers) before assembling the side frames in step 1-1.

Don C

Keep up your rotor speed !

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04-23-2009 05:18 AM  9 years agoPost 3
littleman

rrKey Veteran

Pasadena, Ca

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I know CYE mentions this in the addendum but as most know paddles make a huge difference in how a model flys.

68mm-these paddles are VERY stable and are awesome for a more fai style of flying they track super well, and the roll rate is nothing special but plenty for sport flying.

71mm-These paddles are actually nominally heavier than the 68mm's but they are much more aggresive leading to much quicker and crisper cyclics. The roll rate is increased over the 68's but with the increased quickness it seems I think more substantial then it is. They still track really well with no bad tendencies, and for general 3d and bigger 3d they work awesome.

Stubz 2mm-These paddles are the same shape as the 71mm's so they are quite aggressive as well. What really sets these apart is the weight(or lack thereof )they weigh about 3g a piece and the weights weigh 2g. In comparison the included paddles are about 7g. I have only run these with weights and honestly would never consider running them without. As expected they are not quite as stable as the plastics but I still think hover very well. They are VERY quick and the roll rate is exceptional. I reccomend these for "smack" 3d and for those who want crazy cyclics, or still want a fast roll rate at a slightly lower headspeed.
I hope this helps someone.
A.J.

Proud member of Teams MSH USA, Futaba, Scorpion, & Nick Maxwell Products

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04-23-2009 05:52 PM  9 years agoPost 4
Sky Dancer

rrVeteran

Bryan, Texas

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When I strip a TR gear, this is the way I like to reset the gear lash:

First, remove the tail boom from the model (leave the front boom clamps tight on the tail boom).

Next, remove the front Tail Transition Support on the Front Tail Boom Clamp.

Now, check to see if there is any end to end play on the tail rotor output shaft in the TR gearbox. If so, use shims or slightly bend the stock spacer to eliminate the end play.

Now, check to see how much clearance is in the bevel gears in the tail rotor gear box. If it seems like too much, first remove the 2X10mm allen bolt that pins the TR gear box to the bottom of the tail boom (step 5-2) and then loosen the 2X6mm allen bolt that clamps the tail rotor gear box to the tail boom. Now, slide the tail rotor gear box in a little on the tail boom to tighten up the gear lash then tighten the 2X6mm bolt on the TR gearbox clamp.

Then, I like to spin the tail rotor using my finger on the front bevel gear on the torque tube. It should be very smooth without any binding and have a little gear lash (plastic gears don't wear in). When it's smooth reinstall the 2X10mm allen bolt that pins the TR gearbox to the tail boom.

Now, reinstall the Tail Transition assembly. Check the clearance between these bevel gears. If it seems a little loose, loosen the screw on the Front Tail Boom Clamp and slide the Tail Boom a little further inward to reduce the clearance.

Now, spin the TR assembly again using your finger on the 24T Flat Gear and all should be smooth (no irregular drag) and you should have a little gear lash.

Now, reinstall the tail boom and tighten up all bolts. Check to see if there is very much clearance between the 24T Flat Gear and the 100T Tail Drive Gear. If there is too much clearance, just loosen the clamping 2X6mm screw on the rear Tail Boom Clamp (do not loosen the clamping 2X6mm screw on the front Tail Boom Clamp or you will change the gear lash on the front bevel gears) and then loosen the (8) 2X6mm screws that hold the tail boom clamps in the side frames and push the tail boom assembly a little further inward. It doesn't appear to be critical to have a very tight clearance between the 24T flat gear and the 100T tail drive gear.

Now, (with the main rotor blades off) spin the main rotor head by the flybar to see if if you hear or feel any binding. Once everything's smooth tighten all screws.

The tail drive system should run smooth.... And while holding the 100T Tail Drive Gear, the tip of my TR blades move back and forth about 8mm (accumulated gear lash).

Don C

Keep up your rotor speed !

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