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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › What not to do with wood blades..
04-03-2009 03:14 PM  9 years agoPost 21
w8qz

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Grand Rapids, MI - USA

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Wow - I've gone through lots of wood blades on my 30, and abused 'em quite a bit, but never had that happen. I guess I'd also question the securing of the grips. I've always done what TT says in the blade package, and epoxied - not CAd - the grips. Even in the worst crashes - i.e. full throttle FFF sideways into the ground (pieces really fly a long ways, then ) I've never seen a blade fail like that. I flew for a long time without using a tachometer, for that matter. Do you have some sort of super-screamer monster engine on that thing? A 30 heli with an OS .32 will have a hard time grossly overspeeding the blades, generally speaking.

The biggest drawbacks I've see with the wood blades are:

a) you *always* have to balance them - they're usually off quite a bit
b) the covering can sometimes come loose
c) they're a little noisier than the composite blades, and may have a bit more airfoil drag noticeable in an auto.
d) they're a little heavier
e) you have to assembled the blades (as in glue the grips on) - the composite ones are 'bolt on and fly' - mostly (although I still check the balance - but usually pretty close on)

"The helicopter is much easier to design than the aeroplane, but is worthless when done."

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04-03-2009 03:40 PM  9 years agoPost 22
heliboy1023

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Tinton Falls, NJ

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http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/products_view.php?id=28

I know quite a few people flying their cosmetically flawed blades. Most have small scratches you will never even say. They just don't have the CY sticker on them, or come packaged fancy if I remember right. And for only $62.00 a set, they are a really good deal for a great set of blades.

You know you have to many heli's only when your wallet is empty.

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04-03-2009 03:42 PM  9 years agoPost 23
flustercluck

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Newnan Ga (Just S. of ATL)

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http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/products_view.php?id=28

+1+1+1+1+1 on that

AWESOME value, IMO... both 600's & 690's

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04-03-2009 05:28 PM  9 years agoPost 24
Briliu

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Rome, NY

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As far as glueing the blade plastic things on to the blades. I did do that, although probably not correctly. Trimmed the covering off till just under the plastic, put CA on the holes and around them then put the plastic on then CA'd around the whole perimeter as well. I probably should have trimmed more of the covering off and glued the perimeter directly to the wood. Too late for that now.

I didnt have a tach, I've never tuned an engine, I dont know what 1500RPM sounds like compared to 2100 RPM. All that being said, there was no problem with them UNTILL I changed my curves. Which, I've had no experience with as well. There was a spot between 1/3 1/2 throttle where I could tell that it was going too fast. Unfortunatly, thats RIGHT smack dab where I was on throttle trying to land it.

I know what would have happened if I had gotten hit. I'm lucky I didnt, I was 25feet away from it when it blew up and both blades ended up behind me by about 15ft. Nasty stuff. I didnt do it on purpose though, and I plan on taking the precautions to never do it again.
We were flying in a college gym over the winter, he spooled it up... got it into a hover, switch into idle up... KAAAABOOOOM... the thing just exploded. It was FRICKEN AWESOME!!! The main shaft bent at near a 45 degree angle. It was almost a total loss, servos stripped, shafts, linkages all kinds of stuff, it was an explosion of parts all over the gym.
My main shaft ended up about 15° bent above the first bearing. Momentum + centripital force = wow..

As far as the flying I was doing on them, circuits and like 10 total poorly executed stall turns. Nothing fancy, I dont want to crash

I've been told twice now that when the engine speeds up at the end of the tank (like, 1/8th a tank left) that I'm too lean. I tried to fix this last time by richening it up, but I got to about 1.5 turns out and it STILL did it.. Am I missing something? I thought I had it tuned quite well (Hyper 50 btw), backplate was "hot" like 5-6 seconds till I had to pull my finger away from it. It didnt get any hotter than that though even after 2 consecutive flights. Transition from Idle to hover was smooth too, where as before (1.5 turns) it would BARELY make it without cutting out.

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04-03-2009 06:54 PM  9 years agoPost 25
TOSH

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UK.Peterborough

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That tuning sounds ok. l`d use the govenor and maybe land before the last 1/8 of a tank.

Flybars. Who needs `em.

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04-03-2009 07:04 PM  9 years agoPost 26
w.pasman

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Netherlands

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You need to use EPOXY instead of CA (from the raptor 50 manual)
I think CA is too brittle and also it will soak into the wood.

I would stay at least at 30 feet away from the heli (though even that won't help you if the blade hits you).

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04-03-2009 07:22 PM  9 years agoPost 27
cudaboy_71rrElite Veteran - sacramento, ca, u.s. - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

the problem here is the out of the box headspeed of a 600N is above the rated speed for most woodies.

yes, a lot of people learned on woodies---10 years ago, probably on a .30.

on a modern .50-class heli fiberglass is the minimum prereq. wood is just asking for, well, what you got.

detune a stock 600 to 1600rpm or less and you're probably fine. but, out of the box you should follow the recommendations of the manufacturer at the very least.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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04-03-2009 07:38 PM  9 years agoPost 28
chopper_crazy

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Delphos, Ohio

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wood blades can be extremely dangerous. Take a look at my gallery to see what happens to a brand new Hirobo Sceadu 50. It was a total loss.

It's a complex, costly, glow powered anti-gravity machine!

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04-03-2009 08:04 PM  9 years agoPost 29
USNAviationjay

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Houston Tx USA

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Mavrikk G4s are like 54 bucks a set. Radix Cosflaws 62.

Buy some carbons and be done with it.

sorry bro =(

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04-03-2009 08:04 PM  9 years agoPost 30
BJames111

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San Diego, California

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detune a stock 600 to 1600rpm or less and you're probably fine. but, out of the box you should follow the recommendations of the manufacturer at the very least.
nope. 1800 to 1850 is fine on woodies, you can do most mild aerobatic manuvers at that headspeed as well. Proper balancing and epoxying the roots is mandatory.

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04-03-2009 08:11 PM  9 years agoPost 31
cudaboy_71

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sacramento, ca, u.s.

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nope. 1800 to 1850 is fine on woodies, you can do most mild aerobatic manuvers at that headspeed as well. Proper balancing and epoxying the roots is mandatory.
i'm sure you can. so, no offense. but, i'd rather take the word of the manufacturer. at least if something happens there's some expectation accountability.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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04-03-2009 08:18 PM  9 years agoPost 32
Briliu

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Rome, NY

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wood blades can be extremely dangerous. Take a look at my gallery to see what happens to a brand new Hirobo Sceadu 50. It was a total loss.
Holy crap chopper_crazy, I got seriously lucky I do believe..

and cudaboy_71, I probably should have read that I bought the heli used with a set of carbon blades, I was like "I'm going to save money incase i crash by getting woodies like my 30 years ago!" seems thats not the case haha.

Fiberglass + from here on out

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04-03-2009 08:28 PM  9 years agoPost 33
The_Dave

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Las Vegas / Pahrump, Nevada

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~
Man, I read and I just shake my head....

Wood blades are just as safe as any other blade. If you build them right you will have zero problems. I have several sets at home right now that I know can take anything you can dish out. Don't blame the blade for your inability to properly assemble them.

Most people have never built a set of blades, they just throw their money at a carbon or glass set and bolt them on.

And, FWIW, I had a set of carbon NHP's chuck a weight right out the tip of the blade resulting in bad things happening. So, if you think you are safe with your carbon blades, think again.

Mark McAlpine - 2005 - We will never forget.

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04-03-2009 09:07 PM  9 years agoPost 34
bosshoss

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Chicago, IL

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^^^^^^^^^^

+1 BJames.

Adding to the myth of woodies being bad, by breaking all the rules, and not following instructions.

Anyone who says you cant fly a 50 on woodies is minding the bollocks.

All this proves is , is the more mistakes and carelessness abound, the better the chances of you holding the bollocks.

The difference in flying a 50 15 years ago on woodies, and today flying a 50 on woodies is directly related to the attention span- hype-fedness of the builder/pilot.

Why Hover a Yak, when a Heli does it better?

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04-03-2009 09:47 PM  9 years agoPost 35
nocontrol1

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Melbourne, FL, USA

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I learned to fly on a Shuttle with woodies, than graduated to a Raptor 60 with stock 660 woodies. They worked fine, but I always followed the instructions on trimming the covering at the roots. Once I got a set of CF blades though there's no looking back. They balance better, track better, and all around fly better. Properly set up, woodies should be fine at proper head speeds.

Rob D.

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04-03-2009 11:03 PM  9 years agoPost 36
Raptor Pilot

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Northern Ireland U.K

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Properly set up, woodies should be fine at proper head speeds.
I have to agree with you there as i never have had an issue with woodies and i do fly carbons as well. Out of all my heli fleet 80% of them are flying on woodies.

If it doesnt move and its meant too... use WD 40. If it moves and its not meant too...use duct tape!

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04-03-2009 11:19 PM  9 years agoPost 37
rudyy

rrElite Veteran

E. Amherst, NY

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Do you have the blades damaged in the past in the root area e.g. damages caused by blade folding?

Rudy

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04-03-2009 11:50 PM  9 years agoPost 38
fenderstrat

rrProfessor

Aston,Pa

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I think though that todays helis,and todays flying styles put WAY more stress on main blades than 15 years ago,so you cant really compare flying woodies 15 years ago to flying a 50 on woodies today

with cf frames and such,electronics getting smaller and better,and designs improving constantly,the power to weight ratios have improved DRAMATICALLY.Add to this the aggressive flying of today and those woodies are seeing a lot more stress.

I know it CAN be done,but caution must be used when setting headspeed,and you must build as recommended,cause there is not much room for error

Compass helis Support Team
PerformancePlusRC field rep
Mini Titan/SE
TEAM KBDD

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04-04-2009 12:13 AM  9 years agoPost 39
mharpo

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Louisville, KY

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04-04-2009 01:55 AM  9 years agoPost 40
BJames111

rrElite Veteran

San Diego, California

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i'm sure you can. so, no offense. but, i'd rather take the word of the manufacturer. at least if something happens there's some expectation accountability
Cuda, sorry but R/C helicopters have been around for much longer than Align has. Thousands of people have thousands of flights on wooden 550's and 600's. IF you assemble, balance, and don't overspeed wooden blades, you can perform aerobatics and mild 3d with zero problems. I don't care what Align says.
I think though that todays helis,and todays flying styles put WAY more stress on main blades than 15 years ago,so you cant really compare flying woodies 15 years ago to flying a 50 on woodies today
Fenderstrat, You CAN compare flying today to flying 15 years ago. Hovering, forward flight, loops and rolls are no different today than 15 years ago. As long as rotor RPM isn't exceeded the basic manuvers are exactly the same. FWIW, I'm not suggesting putting on wooden blades and attempting any hard 3d manuver with woodies.

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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › What not to do with wood blades..
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