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04-03-2009 03:59 AM  9 years agoPost 21
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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Is there only ONE clunk line in the tank coming off the straight fitting or is there supposed to be two?

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 04:08 AM  9 years agoPost 22
Excalibur

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Destination: Earth

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STOP! Before hacking up your pristine fuel tank, here's an alternative. . .

I always hated the way that heli manufacturers make you punch holes in perfectly good tanks, only to install ill-fitting, leaky fuel fittings. So here's what I did; I bought some 1/8" "soft" brass tubing, some 1/8" barbs, and a tubing bender (all Dubro stuff) and went to work.

First, I bent three brass tubes at a 90 degree angle near one end, then silver soldered the barbs onto these ends, cut them to length, and pushed them into the cap and bung assembly like this:

Next, I attached the thin-wall Tygon clunk line and clunk, then GENTLY bent the brass vent line upwards (by hand) to fit near the top of the tank, then slipped the assembly into the tank and snugged down the screw:

The brass lines need to all be pointing towards the engine for this to work, but in the end it works incredibly well, doesn't EVER leak, and looks cool:

This method can be applied to any heli fuel tank and beats the hell out of those stupid fuel fittings that you are supposed to punch into your tank that continually leak.

Give it a shot and let me know how it turns out.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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04-03-2009 04:24 AM  9 years agoPost 23
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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Wow.. nice work!

Too late thou, I already hacked up my tank

I think I just might get another tank and give that a go later. I'm too excited to get this heli built to wait and do it now

I once tried buying and bending copper pipe before, for a different heli, and it kept splitting on me. You should make up some kit's and sell them for $15 or something. I'll be your first customer

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 05:10 AM  9 years agoPost 24
Excalibur

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I once tried buying and bending copper pipe before, for a different heli, and it kept splitting on me. You should make up some kit's and sell them for $15 or something. I'll be your first customer
Thanks for the kudos, but I don't think I'd make much money from it! It's really easy for anybody to do.

BTW, I think you meant to say "brass" instead of "copper" in your last post? The trick is to use the soft brass tubing with the tubing bender, NOT the hardened type. It won't split, but it won't bend right either. I believe the stuff that comes with the fuel tanks is the soft type.

Good luck with the build - we want a full flight report. . .

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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04-03-2009 05:22 AM  9 years agoPost 25
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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You're right, I meant brass. I'll give it a go later. How is it working for you anyway? Been running it like that for long?

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 05:25 AM  9 years agoPost 26
Excalibur

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I ran the Predator like that for probably a year before I sold it, and it worked great. When I bought my Spectra-G last year I did the same thing, only I'm using TWO tanks plumbed this way, again with great success. It really is the only way to go in my book.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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04-03-2009 05:35 AM  9 years agoPost 27
561Larry

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Abbotsford B.C.

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What The Manual Forgot To Show
Here is my method of correctly ensuring the correct distance between the pinion and the main gear.Take a 5mm dia. rod and insert it in the bearings where the start shaft goes.It should be long enough to measure the top and bottom( I used a old screwdriver that had a 5mm dia. shaft)Keep the eight screws on the two bearing blocks loose (the clutch shaft bearing blocks) and the two screws connecting the lower long bearing block and the clutch short bearing block.Using a caliper measure the distance between the 5mm dia. rod and the main shaft moving the bearing blocks to achieve equal distances top and bottom (parallel),tighten screws when equal,check for spacing with a stripe of paper ,tight enough that the gear teeth
don't cut into the paper.Redo till you achieve the desired spacing.
My spacing was 22.80 mm outside to outside,yours measurement depends on the gear wear.
With this method the gears will mesh perfectly and the clutch and clutch alignment should not be a factor.

Cheers Larry

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04-03-2009 03:43 PM  9 years agoPost 28
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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Hey, good idea... I will try that as well - thanks.

Here is where I am at now...

UPDATE:

Moving on to the frame now, the tank is giving me trouble. First, one of the nut's used to secure a fitting in the tank did not have any threads on it. Went to Home Depot to find a replacement and was unsuccessful. Picked up a nylon nut that was a bit smaller ID. Used a boring tool and threaded it on anyway; fitting cut new threads in it. Took it off again, applied a dab of CA on the new threads and secured the fitting to the outside of the tank. I think this will be fine until I find an alternative tank out there. Apparently there are a lot of choices and setups. This took like 5 hours of running around to resolve.

In addition, four M3x20 head bolts that were provided for the battery tray were supposed to be screwed in and CA'd in place because the head is not accessible when you join the outside frames (according to the manual)... BUT... only one bolt had threads all the way to the head (other three were shoulder bolts) so off to the hobby store to buy four M3x20 head bolts (included in the 5 hours above).

I'm also about to test support, as the kit is supposed to come with a Engine Stabilization System (ESS) and it's missing from my kit. These little hick-ups are slowing the build down at the moment.

Hmm... now where do I go and who do I call for support? I know Rotorsport is a local rep here and is awesome when it comes to support... I know Hobby Alley support is awesome... the main Century warehouse is in BC and I've heard they are awesome... the main distributor is in BC and I hear he is awesome... I don't think I have anything to worry about "support-wise" ?

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 08:34 PM  9 years agoPost 29
predatorman

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Falkland Islands

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Check out the X frame mod for the build too, maybe you already know of it? sure makes removing the engine easier for maintenance.

Good points about the rubber stopper and the fittings combined, yes, the through fittings always seep a bit

Quality takes........time!

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04-03-2009 08:51 PM  9 years agoPost 30
rotorsport

rrApprentice

St. Albert, Alberta, Canada

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Rotrosport
Lane, sounds like you got it from Hobby Alley; they should be the first one you call. Do you have the carbon or aluminum kit? I phoned the coast already and there is no problem if something is missing (my apologies for the missing parts and taking up your time running to the hobby store I’ll make it up to you somehow)

Charles
Team Century
Team Leisure-Tech

IAFF 2130 It was on FIRE when I got there

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04-03-2009 08:59 PM  9 years agoPost 31
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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You Century guys rock!

I did not want the CF version, the frame is metal. (SE NX Version)

OK, picked up a new filter/clunk at the local small-engine repair shop. It's typically used for weed-eaters or chainsaws, etc. rotorsport recommended it. It's nice because the end actually soaks up fuel and the engine sucks from there.

As for the X mod, here is what my frames look like right now:

Which frame needs to be mod'ed, left one or right one?
and here is what the tank looks like:

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 09:09 PM  9 years agoPost 32
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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Can someone post a link to the mod or tell me from the photos above which frame needs the mod, if any?

Not sure I understand the mod and how it helps.

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 09:20 PM  9 years agoPost 33
Billme

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MS

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[img] /fastphoto/31/PA280005.jpg [desc]

You also want to make sure you relieve the bottom motor plate where the main coil rest so the motor can sit flat when bolted to the bottom plate.

Bill

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04-03-2009 09:31 PM  9 years agoPost 34
Billme

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MS

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By eliminating the cross member on the above X frame, you can take the whole mechanics off at one time..Using the ESS, you will have to take the 2 on each side 2mm bolts out also...

The only bolts I use loctite on the main frames are the clutchbell bearing blocks, and the bottom bolts that hold the frame to the bottom engine plate...Very small amount on the ESS..

Do not use locktite on the bolts and spacers that hold the top, and bottom frames together..Once you tighten them down, use clear fingernail polish, and put on the head of the bolt, and the frames at the same time ..This will lock it in place, and make it easy if you ever have to take those bolts out..

Bill

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04-03-2009 09:42 PM  9 years agoPost 35
CNCjunkie

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Kauai (The Garden Isle), Hawaii - USA

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Do not use locktite on the bolts and spacers that hold the top, and bottom frames together..Once you tighten them down, use clear fingernail polish, and put on the head of the bolt, and the frames at the same time ..This will lock it in place, and make it easy if you ever have to take those bolts out..
That totally makes sense! It's a bummer when you disassemble and find loctite has made it's way into the spacers.

Just another crappy day in Paradise....Aloha!

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04-03-2009 09:48 PM  9 years agoPost 36
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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OK, here is another one. Should I be concerned about this:

I think you mentioned it before I did
You also want to make sure you relieve the bottom motor plate where the main coil rest so the motor can sit flat when bolted to the bottom plate.
How do you "relieve" it?

and thanks for those tips Bill.

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 10:23 PM  9 years agoPost 37
Billme

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MS

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Yes, that's the other item I was talking about... I take a large sanding disk that is about the same diameter curve as that point on the main coil that touches..I mark the width with a maker of some type easy to see..Then Take the motor off, and do it all the was to the step up so the main coil does not bind the motor..It should lay flat without force..
Doing this will make alignment very easy in the long run, and want tweak the bottom plate when you put the top and bottom frames together..

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04-03-2009 10:37 PM  9 years agoPost 38
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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OK, I already mounted the bottom plate to the motor and it seems fine other than it's just "touching" the main coil. Would you say that a space about the thickness of paper would be OK there?

I really don't want to take it all apart and do that, but if I have to then I have to. Would there be an issue with the coil and vibration if I left it?

Would the part of the frame rubbing the red plastic rub away, making a space between there?

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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04-03-2009 10:41 PM  9 years agoPost 39
jschenck

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La Vista, NE.

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Jeez, I want to post a bunch of info, but I don't have the time right now. Maybe later tonight. If you ever have any intention of using the on board generator "The Jewel" you'll want to flip the one-way bearing over in the clutch right now.

Also, do the O-ring mod in the main one-way if Century didn't put it in your kit already.

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04-03-2009 10:50 PM  9 years agoPost 40
thelane

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Edmonton, Alberta Canada

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OK, I did the X mod... didn't feel good, but it's done.

I'm just gonna stick with the 5-Cell NiHM and step-down to the tail for this year, but thanks for making that suggestion.

Not aware of the O-ring mod in the main oneway. Do you have a link to this?

JR Vibe 50 and DX7

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