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T-REX 250 › T-REX 250 OWNERS
04-02-2009 01:25 AM  9 years agoPost 1
KevinBourland

rrApprentice

Springfield, Illinois

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ok, you all are saying that the 250 is a blast, so.... I ordered...
it is on it"s way.
I do not wish to reinvent the wheel here, so I was hoping that some of you would share some of your idea's and experience concerning the T-REX 250.

If you were putting one together, what are the"Must Have" new parts for the 250. I am talking of parts which are improved from original, not "bling".

Also, special tools?

Hints, tricks etc...

Thanks!!!!

Kevin

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04-02-2009 01:28 AM  9 years agoPost 2
cwright

rrKey Veteran

Blossvale New York

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

More batteries for more flying. I am flying mine stock and it is working great. Chuck

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04-02-2009 01:31 AM  9 years agoPost 3
gooberseptember

rrApprentice

monroeville pa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Mip
microheli bottom plate

and yes lots of lipos

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04-02-2009 01:41 AM  9 years agoPost 4
ckoelliker

rrElite Veteran

St. Simons, GA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

When you set the gain, start off low and work your way up.

RREMODELS

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04-02-2009 02:51 AM  9 years agoPost 5
Schuster_Helis

rrVeteran

Moscow Mills, MO.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Must get the MIP Thorp .90 driver. The one with the kit sucks.
Flew mine stock for a few flights then took some advise that I found on here.

1. Blade grip flip.. to leading edge
2. Mini servo added 9257 tail servo
3. Added good gyro Futaba GY520
4. Metal bottom plate and metal main shaft bearing blocks
5. Good set of Carbon blades

WOW Totally different machine. A complete blast to fly

Just dont forget to resize all the ball links.

Jim
Team ME, Team Helidirect, Pulse LiPo, Scorpion ESC

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04-02-2009 03:10 AM  9 years agoPost 6
Mr Scout.

rrNovice

milpitas,ca,USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Get alot of feathering shafts w/alot of blade grips spacers.those are the most common things you must have cause your feathering shafts breaks but not your main blades!.lol also MIP thorp hex tool.must have!!.

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04-02-2009 12:06 PM  9 years agoPost 7
KevinBourland

rrApprentice

Springfield, Illinois

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Wow!

This is the "stuff" that I was talking about!!!

Great info here ! Keep it coming!!

Thank you everyone!!

Kevin

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04-02-2009 02:42 PM  9 years agoPost 8
Jag72

rrProfessor

South of Boston

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

trex 250
here's my opinion...for a setup

Trex 250 super combo with servos and gyro(gp 750)
Good tail servo like a 3500g or 9257
Rjx Carbon blades
16t pinion w/stock motor
Outrage 860 mah 20c or 30c packs
Thorp .9 driver
metal tail pulley front and rear

This is a VERY fun little heli

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04-07-2009 01:21 PM  9 years agoPost 9
helicraz

rrNovice

Singapore

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

watch out for the cheese bolts. The head damage at the slightest force. So be gentle when tightening them.

My trex250's tail rotor control arm broke on its 2nd trimming flight. I am having the new version tail and it is not binding. It might be just some QC problem.

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04-07-2009 11:23 PM  9 years agoPost 10
contest10

rrApprentice

England

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Check the main shaft is machined and not bent.

Might want to replace the main gear with the new one that has just came out ( http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/h25...20t-p-6523.html )

16t Pinion

Another support for the tail rod.

Cut a ball link with a knife, put in drill, make bore out all the holes a bit (youtube this, it's fairly simple). They are too tight, stock.

The hex driver it comes with is fine, just makes sure that you push it in all the way, it will go in a bit and you'll tthink you have pushed it in the screw all the way when you haven't.

Take out the bottom plane when you are doing wiring and putting in the gear.

Don't put the servos in until you've placed the motor in.

Read the instructions twice, then just think about building it. They are simple to follow, but the actual instructions are not great. I don't like the order they have about assembling things. I had to disassemble things, to assemble certain things correctly.

Cutting the bottom of the canopy was needed for me, for it to fit with the helicopter and a battery in place. Before we get lots of pictures posted such that I have to scroll a lot down the page - the stock canopy can fit. It's just a bit of hard work (failing that, look up canomod canopies).

I would say don't use the square tailblades. They cut the grass too much.

If you are using the stock, white blades to begin with (I would do that even if it's for the first two flights) then colour them red and black or something. I know you can use tracking tape but that adds weight.

The align batteries are ok, it's up to you if you want to spend more.

The tail pulleys are already metal, stock now.

I don't think you should add carbon fibre landing struts or something. I have heard some peoples ay they break easily, but if you strengthen them that's going to add a lot of stress further up the heli. They are really not expensive to replace, either.

Put screws in pure alcohol, mount the speed controller underneath not up front.

The wiring is actually simple but it took me a while to figure out how to do it neatly.

I know this is mostly about what to have replaced, from stock. Most of it's actually ok and the main part is building.

Put all the screws in alcohol.

I don't think you need -11 pitch in normal flight mode. I raised that a bit, it made landing a bit easier.

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