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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Possable Fuel Problem?
03-31-2009 11:53 PM  9 years agoPost 21
TaleGunner

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Deer Park WA

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I think bosshoss has a point I have 2 gal through mine and still chasing an air leak. I took a look and the cross hatch marks are still there not even close to broke in. I am waiting for a return call from Al and will probably send this eng back there is a problem that no one can seem to find. I have tried everything that everyone has suggested. so today I tried an old hotrod trick and sprayed some carb cleaner around the engine while it was running and get a tone change around the cylinder to block seal.

CRASH! GLUE! REPEAT!
Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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04-01-2009 12:23 AM  9 years agoPost 22
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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If the crosshatch is gone, and the ring is mirror finish, Synth will keep it that way. If the cyl is not a mirror, it is not polished, and needs to be cut. Period.
This does seem to be a reliable and verifiable way of detemining the right time to switch oils.

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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04-01-2009 01:01 AM  9 years agoPost 23
bosshoss

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Chicago, IL

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Tale gunner, did say you GOT a pitchchange/warble when you shot the cyl base???? No doubt an airleak.

As far as determining when to switch, you can switch anytime.

Whether it is broken in, polished and seated , is another story.

The manufacturers don't want you sending in a carboned ,gunked up motor from running too rich. The easiest way to accomplish that is tell the customers to run Synth oil, less carbon, less gunk.

Tune it right with Dino oil, and no problems, it gets cut and polished. .......tune it sloppy, and it gets gunked up, and can score.

It could take a lifetime of the heli to break in polish up with Synth oil.

Why Hover a Yak, when a Heli does it better?

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04-01-2009 11:17 AM  9 years agoPost 24
Pinecone

rrKey Veteran

Maryalnd

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Funny, I have taken apart engiens with over 100,000 miles on them and the cylinder cross hatch is still visible.

You can have a fully seated ring, with cross hatch visible. IN fact, if the cylinder wall is polished, you will trash the ring as there will be too little oil there.

Terry
Blade CP Trex 450 SE
QJ EP8v2 EX Gaui Hurricane 550
Vibe 50 Bergen Intrepid Gasser

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04-01-2009 12:30 PM  9 years agoPost 25
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I have taken apart engiens with over 100,000 miles on them and the cylinder cross hatch is still visible.
vs.
If the crosshatch is gone, and the ring is mirror finish, Synth will keep it that way. If the cyl is not a mirror, it is not polished, and needs to be cut. Period.
So then I guess one needs to run 2 gallons of Lawnboy and then switch to synthetic, and there is no way to verify that the engine is indeed broken in?

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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04-01-2009 01:08 PM  9 years agoPost 26
shawmcky

rrElite Veteran

Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Cross hatching
I am not sure whether Zenoah uses Nikasil plating for their cylinders,if they do the honing is usually diamond cut and will take a very,very long time to disappear due to the hardness of the process used.Cross hatching on a cast iron untreated bore will disappear quicker.

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04-01-2009 01:27 PM  9 years agoPost 27
Chris Bergen

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cassopolis, MI USA

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I am sorry , I have to disagree with the motor guys, remember , they are in the business of selling and repairing motors.
I have to totally disagree with this. Both Al's are in the business of selling you a modified RELIABLE engine. They are not in the business to repair your screwups...

Both of them have many hours of running engines, many years of experience doing modifications to these engines. WHY would you just completely discount their recomendations based on their YEARS of experience??

Because you THINK they want to sell you repairs? Get real...

Chris D. Bergen

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04-01-2009 01:58 PM  9 years agoPost 28
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Chris Bergen
+ one on that Chris,no one wants to sell an unreliable product if you are serious about staying in business that is.

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04-01-2009 06:26 PM  9 years agoPost 29
Flyon

rrApprentice

Auburn, California

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So then I guess one needs to run 2 gallons of Lawnboy and then switch to synthetic, and there is no way to verify that the engine is indeed broken in?
Yes, there is a way to tell when to switch from your break-in oil.

Power, Temp and Needle settings. Of course, the best way to tell when its time to switch is follow the builders recommendations. They really do know what is best. Toxic has instructions and Hansen has instructions, so it's simple, follow the instructions.

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04-01-2009 08:48 PM  9 years agoPost 30
TaleGunner

rrElite Veteran

Deer Park WA

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I was fol owing Hanson's instructions then while on the phone with him trying to sort out my fuel problem he said switch to synthetic at 32-37 to 1 and I was almost through my first gallon. now I have almost 2 gal through it and some are saying to go back to ashless for awhile?

I think I have solved the fuel problem (fingers crossed) and I want to start putting some real flying on this heli but this whole thing has broke my confidence. I got out the 600 yesterday and it took 2 flights to be able to fly hard.

Anybody else go through this feeling when they run through a problem or in this Case a whole new learning curve combined with a problem chase?

CRASH! GLUE! REPEAT!
Spectra-G, Ion X-2

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04-01-2009 09:01 PM  9 years agoPost 31
shawmcky

rrElite Veteran

Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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BEST ADVICE
The best guy for advice is the guy that built your motor,follow that and with his experience im sure you wont go far wrong.A lot of people have a lot of different ideas and it can be very confusing if you are new to gassers,Mr Hanson must have built and dealt with hundreds of these motors,listen to him first.

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04-02-2009 04:11 AM  9 years agoPost 32
GREYEAGLE

rrElite Veteran

Flat Land's

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I'm with Chris
I have two and both still have their crosshatches on both the cylinders and the jugs.

One of them I got used and immediatley stuck it on syn because it was filthy inside, including gummy rings and was laqure coated inside.

Cleaned that one right up after a gallon on syn / and camp gas.
I think it actually has knurled sizing marks on the skirts " Some ones modification.

I then went in thru the ports with a vacume and wooden scraper and cleaned the piston dome during a isolation block install Took at least a taplespoon of coal out of it.

The new girl is absolutly pristeine inside / with all hone marks and tooling marks - still has the centerpoint tool mark on the top of the jug-

I broke in with a exhaust diaper. " coffee filter " When it went from a primer gray deposit to clear I Immediatley switched to syn.

Less than a gallon - I'ts a real snappey compression.

greyeagle

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