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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › New Spectra G owner/Tips
01-19-2009 04:44 AM  9 years agoPost 1
rbrooks

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Califronia

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New Spectra G owner/Tips

I recently purchased a MA spectra-G with tempest head. I've been checking out this forum and there is a wealth of information…the tips and “leasons learned” from the folks will help me with what to look out for...in building and flying my new spectra. I’m fired up about getting started. Anyway, I do a few question…and will probably have more once I start building and first flights. Any inputs will be much appreciated.

1. Engine – I’m trying to decide between the stock Zenoah g231 and TRM. At first I was looking at the stock Zenoah G231…but now leaning towards a TRM stage 1 modified. I’ll probably be doing mostly sport flying in the beginning. As my confidence increases…I may transition into some 3D flying…and will probably want the additional power. I’ve read the TRM motors are smoother and more powerful than the stock. For sport flying, I’m more concerned with how much smoother TRM motor is. Is the TRM motor noticeably smoother? I attempted to email toxic Al…but I haven’t heard back on availability and pricing. Any advice?

2. Main rotor blades – What are good blades to use on the spectra G…and what length? I’ve read that it is recommended to use the 700mm blades with the tempest head and 710 mm with the extreme head. I’ve check out the SAB blades…but I couldn’t find them in 700mm. Are there any issues with running the SAB 710mm with the tempest head? Has any used the Mavrikk G5 Pro 700 main rotor blades…opinion on them?

3. Radio/RF shield - I’ll be using a Futaba 12FG spread spectrum (2.4Ghz) radio. Has anyone had any issues with using 2.4 G hz radio? I was also thinking of picking up the plug wire RF shield. Do I really need the RF shield with the 2.4Ghz radio?

4. Fuel plumbing/clunk - Some folks suggest looping the fuel line. What is the main purposed for looping the fuel line? In addition, I’ve seen folk talk about felt clunk…does anyone know the part number and where to purchase?

5. Servos – I’ve already picked up 3 Futaba 9252 digital servos for cyclic/collective. I was thinking of picking up a futaba 3151 digital servo for the throttle. Or maybe going with a cheap analog servo. Any suggestions/thoughts on using digital or analog servos for the throttle?

I also plan on picking up the following:
- Futaba GY611
- Stator gator ( I already have an GV-1)
- Servo doublers
- 16oz tank
- Century V3 muffler

Thanks in advance
Ralph

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01-19-2009 05:07 AM  9 years agoPost 2
vetrider

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Daleville, AL (Ft.Rucker)

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1. Engine – I’m trying to decide between the stock Zenoah g231 and TRM. At first I was looking at the stock Zenoah G231…but now leaning towards a TRM stage 1 modified. I’ll probably be doing mostly sport flying in the beginning. As my confidence increases…I may transition into some 3D flying…and will probably want the additional power. I’ve read the TRM motors are smoother and more powerful than the stock. For sport flying, I’m more concerned with how much smoother TRM motor is. Is the TRM motor noticeably smoother? I attempted to email toxic Al…but I haven’t heard back on availability and pricing. Any advice?

2. Main rotor blades – What are good blades to use on the spectra G…and what length? I’ve read that it is recommended to use the 700mm blades with the tempest head and 710 mm with the extreme head. I’ve check out the SAB blades…but I couldn’t find them in 700mm. Are there any issues with running the SAB 710mm with the tempest head? Has any used the Mavrikk G5 Pro 700 main rotor blades…opinion on them?

3. Radio/RF shield - I’ll be using a Futaba 12FG spread spectrum (2.4Ghz) radio. Has anyone had any issues with using 2.4 G hz radio? I was also thinking of picking up the plug wire RF shield. Do I really need the RF shield with the 2.4Ghz radio?

4. Fuel plumbing/clunk - Some folks suggest looping the fuel line. What is the main purposed for looping the fuel line? In addition, I’ve seen folk talk about felt clunk…does anyone know the part number and where to purchase?

5. Servos – I’ve already picked up 3 Futaba 9252 digital servos for cyclic/collective. I was thinking of picking up a futaba 3151 digital servo for the throttle. Or maybe going with a cheap analog servo. Any suggestions/thoughts on using digital or analog servos for the throttle?

I also plan on picking up the following:
- Futaba GY611
- Stator gator ( I already have an GV-1)
- Servo doublers
- 16oz tank
- Century V3 muffler
1. I had a stock engine on mine but TRM Al makes a smooth running engine.

2. I had the extreme head but I know the Tempest is a little wider. I would fly 690's on it if you can't find some 700's.

3. Word is you don't need the plug wire shield with 2.4. Just put your RX up front and it should be fine.

4. The loop in the fuel line is ONLY on the VENT line. It is looped to prevent it from pissing fuel when flying 3D.

5. They will do fine. Throttle servo has to be strong enough to work with throttle spring but if power is removed the throttle spring should be able to move the servo to get closed. Safety.

Pretty good setup of components. I had the old V1 century pipe and it worked well with RED High temp gasket RTV (at most auto parts stores).

I miss the Spectra and once I get thru experimenting with the new stuff may get one again.

The Century 50 is going to be interesting too.

Nolan

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01-19-2009 06:43 AM  9 years agoPost 3
rbrooks

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Califronia

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Thanks vetrider

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01-19-2009 04:41 PM  9 years agoPost 4
vetrider

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Daleville, AL (Ft.Rucker)

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Sorry, but I listed red locktite on the Muffler screws but it was the red high temp gasket silicone RTV. Adjusted earlier post.

Nolan

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01-19-2009 05:27 PM  9 years agoPost 5
iskoos

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Orlando, FL

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5. They will do fine. Throttle servo has to be strong enough to work with throttle spring but if power is removed the throttle spring should be able to move the servo to get closed. Safety.
How strong is your spring on the throttle? Mine is nowhere close to overcome dead servo torque in case servo fails.
For throttle arm to move the throttle servo to close position in case servo failure occurs, you are talking about a lot of spring tension.
Did you check and see if your servo moves back when the rx is off?
I bet you it won't.

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01-19-2009 06:33 PM  9 years agoPost 6
vetrider

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Daleville, AL (Ft.Rucker)

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If I remember right. I may have used a cheap digital servo for just that reason. The digital servos are pretty free moving with power off. Some guys use to add a spring to the carb throttle arm. Some just cut the stock spring hook and used no tension because they were worried about wearing out the servo prematurely.

Nolan

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01-19-2009 09:45 PM  9 years agoPost 7
iskoos

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Orlando, FL

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That make sense because the spring load that can move a standard analog servo must be very high. It will definitely wear out throttle servo prematurely...

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01-20-2009 01:47 AM  9 years agoPost 8
rbort

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Franklin, MA - USA

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Answers to your questions
1. Definately use a modified engine. They are smoother than a stock motor which will probably shake more. Also you'll get more power, and everyone can use power in one way or another. You can either run with a Toxic AL 231 or a Hanson G26 with super lightened piston. I use the Hanson G26 3D Max in mine but if you're looking for MA recommended motors then the Toxic 231 is the one they like as originally they felt the G26 shook more but Al at Hanson's has really smoothed the 26's over I think they are as good as the 231's if not better.

2. Buy SAB 710 blades, I use those with the tempest head with no issues. I also have a pair of Radix 710's but they are mostly black and I like the white disk alot better for orientation cues.

3. You do not need any RF shields for the Spectra, don't even use the included shield for the spark plug wire. Just install the motor stock and put the receiver up front you'll have no issues. I fly with PCM 72Mhz no problems since day 1.

4. The loop is in the vent line for 3D not to spill fuel. Get the Walbro felt clunk part number 615-912 for the tank and install it straight back in the end of the Dubro 16oz tank that you will also get. Don't worry about it flipping forward. In fact use tygon 3/32 tubing for it, not the really thin tygon tubing supplied with the kit for the fuel tank. The outer tubing supplied with the kit is too large/thick for the clunk, so use a size a step smaller than that one.

5. If money is no object, get a 4th futaba 9252 for the throttle. I use one on mine and its proven to be very reliable. I just posted elsewhere about it, I got 261 flights on it to date and its held up. If it makes it to 300 flights with no issues I'm good with that!

6. Century v3 muffler is OK, you probably should fabricate a strap to hold it to the engine at a 3rd point and that will make it much more steady and not allow the screws to get loose. Another option can be the zimmerman rear can muffler. Those are in the works. I got one on mine. Check out my gallery here at runryder and you'll see alot of photos of my Spectra-g which should help you alot.

Enjoy, you've chosen and excellent machine that I'm sure you'll love!

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4210 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3280 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1555 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 393 flts

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01-20-2009 02:40 AM  9 years agoPost 9
rbrooks

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Califronia

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Right on Raja...thanks for your inputs. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I start building.

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01-20-2009 03:21 AM  9 years agoPost 10
bosshoss

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Chicago, IL

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If I could find the link to Excalibur's interpolated manual I would post it.

Download his custom modified manual that has the drawings opposite the build pages....it will really help.

You will love the G. I have the stock 231 motor, it flies great, no vibes.

I will probably send my motor to Hanson for a 26 upgrade, now that I have her flying. Power is addicting.

You can't go wrong with any choice, bottom line. I only want the 26 because of the addiction, the stock 231 has enough power to startle me now.......

I have the V3 muffler and have not made a clamp for it yet, but it took three times of loctiting, and bolt wrapping to get her tight.

Be careful of muffler bolt length. Don't use a too long one, it can crack the cyl.

Why Hover a Yak, when a Heli does it better?

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01-20-2009 03:45 AM  9 years agoPost 11
CNCjunkie

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Kauai (The Garden Isle), Hawaii - USA

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Here's the link to Excalibur's manual.

http://www.hotwheels-club.com/Photo...%20Complete.pdf

Just another crappy day in Paradise....Aloha!

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01-20-2009 03:47 AM  9 years agoPost 12
rbrooks

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Califronia

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Ok thanks...bosshoss. I hear it take 5-6 gallons of gas to fully break in the zenoah motors. Does it take that long to smooth out with little to no vibes on the stock motor? Or did you start to notice it smoothing out before that.

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01-20-2009 04:47 AM  9 years agoPost 13
Excalibur

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Destination: Earth

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Here are some additional thoughts on the Spectra:

1. When you print out the composite manual, print double-sided and spiral bind it. That way the written instructions are always on the left side, with drawings on the right side (Kinkos can do this for you relatively cheap). If the written instructions continue on to the next page, the drawing is repeated alongside them to keep things synchronized.

2. Jewel generator. . . buy it, install it, forget about it. This is an absolute necessity in my opinion (and many others). THIS is the source you want for your main power, with a backup battery pack. Non-negotiable.

3. I believe I spent $125 for Toxic Al to modify my 231 last summer. I just bought one from Horizon Hobby and had it drop-shipped to him, and he completed the mods and sent it directly to me. It was faster this way because he does not always have stock motors available to mod.

4. If you break-in the engine with a good 2-cycle oil like Lawnboy Ashless at 28:1, you really only need to run a gallon through before you can switch to synthetic. After that, the motor starts smoothing out considerably and begins to reach it's max output power within a few gallons. Breaking in with synthetic oil only will take forever.

Good luck, keep us posted on your progress.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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01-20-2009 06:50 AM  9 years agoPost 14
rbrooks

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Califronia

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Thanks Excalibur. Quick question...is Yamalube on par with lawnboy...for the first or so gallon of gas? I do plan on switching to amsoil saber later.

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01-20-2009 06:56 AM  9 years agoPost 15
rbrooks

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Califronia

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Thanks for the link to the complete manual...CNCjunkie.

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01-20-2009 12:33 PM  9 years agoPost 16
j.8

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Denmark

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Hi Rbrooks

Yamalube 2R is a synth oil

Use the breakin oil that your "engien modifier" suggest,
breaking in an engien with semi/synth or synth oil,
will take alot longer.

Regards Bo

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01-20-2009 12:47 PM  9 years agoPost 17
m60e3

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Towson, MD

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rbrooks, I sent u a pm?

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01-20-2009 01:56 PM  9 years agoPost 18
iskoos

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Orlando, FL

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QUESTION
Jewel generator. . . buy it, install it, forget about it. This is an absolute necessity in my opinion (and many others).
Why would this be a necessity for gassers? What's the real advantage? I also see people upsizing the fuel tank as if 30-min flight time on a single tank is not enough.
Do you guys plan on crossing the Atlantic Ocean with this chopper?

I would not mind adding a generator if I know I would still use my started. By looking at how the generator mounts, I don't see this possible and I am not a big fan of pull start systems.

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01-20-2009 02:18 PM  9 years agoPost 19
lejon

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Las Vegas, Nevada

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The generator is a backup. There are far too many instances where you either would have avoided a crash or it would not have been as bad if you had an alternate power source. I had my 1005 go in because the battery died and I had near full throttle and no control. Then last year the collective link came of at 1 foot above ground and pitch went to full negative and when it hit the ground it turned off the switch. It sat there at high rpm's negative pitch and there was nothing I could do but hope a breeze didn't come by and tip it over. In both cases if I had the generator installed I could have cut the throttle and auto'd in and in the second case shut the engine down.

Since then I have put the jewel on my 1005 and on my Spectra G and I have noticed that on the G with digital servos the voltage stays solid where as before I put the generator on the volt magic kept dipping into the red.

Speaking for myself (and probably a few others) I never did like having to take the starter, batteries, glow etc out to start the engine. With the pull start you won't need the starter and on the Spectra G the start is a twist on twist off so it is not on during flight and will easily fit in your pocket.

Lejon

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01-20-2009 02:30 PM  9 years agoPost 20
Pinecone

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Maryalnd

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So you run your generator directly to the Rx without the switch, and just use the switch to control the batt?

Terry
Blade CP Trex 450 SE
QJ EP8v2 EX Gaui Hurricane 550
Vibe 50 Bergen Intrepid Gasser

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