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HomeAircraftHelicopterAlignT-REX 600N › wat can go wrong with a t rex 600
01-18-2009 04:55 AM  9 years agoPost 1
concho

rrApprentice

montreal canada

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i am the proud owner of a t rex 450 se v2
i would like to switch to a 600 nitro i read a lot of tread that
report issues with the t rex 600n

i just want to know wat is the week point and the strong point
of the 600
i don't want to start a t rex 600 bashing tread here ore a rappy vs t rex can of worms tread
like every brand of heli on the market the 600 have his high and low point i just want an overall opinions(kind of survey if you like)

i flew my t rex 450 last summer and love it the only issue i had with this masterpiece was with the idler pully
thanks for reply

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01-18-2009 05:14 AM  9 years agoPost 2
baddynergy

rrElite Veteran

sierra madre, ca- usa

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The new kits are pretty good out of the box. Nothing to worry about.

**Unattended children will be givin a shot of espresso and a puppy**

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01-18-2009 05:22 AM  9 years agoPost 3
concho

rrApprentice

montreal canada

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is there a way to recognize an old kit from a new one

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01-18-2009 05:30 AM  9 years agoPost 4
QuantumPSI

rrElite Veteran

Atlanta, GA

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Psh, with the way they sell, I doubt there are any "old" kits in stock at this point.

...now where was I, dh/dt = BS-dx/dt
I will fly you forever... till earth do us part

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01-18-2009 05:31 AM  9 years agoPost 5
baddynergy

rrElite Veteran

sierra madre, ca- usa

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If its in a store now its a new one..
Even the older ones hold up pretty good. Just watch for ball link wear, especially on the tail.

**Unattended children will be givin a shot of espresso and a puppy**

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01-18-2009 05:53 AM  9 years agoPost 6
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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An easy way to spot the newer kits is the swash. If it has writing on top of it, it is a newer kit. If there is no writing on top of the swash, it is an old kit.

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01-18-2009 12:37 PM  9 years agoPost 7
itsjojo

rrKey Veteran

North East Pennnsylvania

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Concho,
i would like to switch to a 600 nitro i read a lot of tread that
report issues with the t rex 600n
I did the same. 450 Se v2 to a 600 nitro pro! See my gallery.
First off don't switch. That little V2 is fun. Keep it!

Most of the issues I had found wern't 600N specific but dealt more with the electric to nitro switch.

If your flying up in the air and done wacking the tail rotor on a consistent basis I'd get the Pro with the Torque tube.
torque tube issue I noticed does have a particular gear that strips a little (keeps working though) The good is it's cheap and easy to fix. 15 minutes at the field.

another issue if your new to nitro helis like I was is the learning curve with nitro helis. Tuning them in as to get good power without leaning the motor and destroying it.

My landing gear *(white) did break several times. By extras. their cheap.

Crash price is much higher: I only put it in from about 10 feet and it was $160 to get her flying again. Blades are expensive. I buy Heli-max white carbons 600mm blades and have been flying them for a few months. Their $50 and feel great to me. I figured I'd fly these "crash" blades for a few months before I put my Radix $95 blades back on.

Stock paddles: On the 600 Nitro pro I have stock paddles that are hollowed out and you place stickers over the top and bottom of them. They fly great but, The stickers always come off. Got sick and tired of that and bought blade ALIGN carbons. They look and fly awesome. Fly exactly the same as the stock paddles. Just what I wanted.

Last but not least I can't say it enough
Lock-tite,Lock-tite,Lock-tite,Lock-tite,Lock-tite,
You get the Idea. Motor mount and landing gear hex cap screws just keep backing out. I mean I kept loosing bolts in 1 flight! I lacquer thinner the bolts and dry them then apply lock tite, install and let sit over night. Usually takes care of them.

Let me finish up by saying;
I LOVE THE 600 NITRO PRO!
I would recommend it to anyone looking forward to nitros.
Good luck
Jojo

JoJo
Foreseeing My Flybarless Future!

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01-18-2009 03:12 PM  9 years agoPost 8
Steff Giguere

rrProfessor

St-Eustache, Quebec, Canada

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The guys are right, if you buy from a hobby shop it will be the newer version. I have the older version with 168 flights on it without a problem. I just reinforced the frame with the special units that Align sells for this. That is it, go out and have fun. I'm also with Itsjojo, don't sell your 450 keep it and have fun with both.

Team Synergy, Rail blades, Team Scorpion, V-Team

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01-18-2009 04:06 PM  9 years agoPost 9
Ladymagic

rrKey Veteran

South Korea

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I own both an older kit and a newer kit and they are about the same age. I've not seen much of a difference other than the older kit's swash generates play faster than the newer one.

An easy way to tell if you have a new kit is to look at the frame and the struts. A newer kit will have struts with anettenna posts on both sides of the strut. Older versions have them only on the left side.....right underneath a hot exhaust pipe. Also, the frame on an older kit has an extra cut-out near the tail case to reduce weight. I am assuming that Align decided it wasn't necessary and it weakened the area so they omitted it on the newer kit's frame sets. Otherwise, there is really no way to know that unless open the box.

Fortunately, I think the possibility of you getting an older kit from a hobby store are pretty much zero. These kits fly off the shelves, due to great pricing, easy maintenance and awesome perfomance. Most of the older kits were bought out over a year ago.

You will come to find that most people who fly anything Align own at least two of their products. Old or new flight performance is the same. Go for it.

Mellisa

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01-19-2009 06:39 AM  9 years agoPost 10
concho

rrApprentice

montreal canada

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THANKS Ladymagic

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01-20-2009 07:53 PM  9 years agoPost 11
asm

rrVeteran

California

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Lock-tite,Lock-tite,Lock-tite,Lock-tite,Lock-tite,
That's a good advise for any heli. At this day and age, I still see noob show up with heli that was supposely mostly assemable and when told they need to check for lock-tite and their respond was "Do I really have to?? " or even better "I am only going to have hover today, it should be ok, right??"

B

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01-21-2009 02:20 PM  9 years agoPost 12
BJames111

rrElite Veteran

San Diego, California

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Keep an eye on the ball links as they wear. I had one let go last summer (I knew it was loose, but laziness prevented me from changing it) and it totaled the kit.

Other than that, they are actually pretty decent.

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01-22-2009 01:37 AM  9 years agoPost 13
HydroJoe

rrApprentice

SF,CA

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I gotta say I couldn't be any happier with my 600NSP. I did get a new kit so I guess most of the "problems" were already worked out. The one thing I did do was pin the tail (front and back.) No big deal...took 10 min.

T-Rex 450 SE V2 , T-Rex 600 NSP, Stryker F27 C....Yea, it's a plank.

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01-22-2009 02:48 AM  9 years agoPost 14
rc.chris

rrApprentice

brunswick, ga. 31525

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You could crash it!

http://www.jaxrc.com

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01-24-2009 01:56 PM  9 years agoPost 15
koppter

rrApprentice

Virginia

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hi guys, i am new to both the forum and helis, having started with a copterx last year. i bought a 600 SP a few months ago, and have been flying it regularly. i dorked it the other day (rolled inverted only find out i was still in start up mode ) and when doing the rebuild i noticed that one servo screw was gone, and the other was loose. in my airplane days we never had to loctice servo screws but i am wondering how many of you do it on your birds? im using 9252s which has an metal output shaft.

also, i have heard rumor that the sp spits the tail rotor assembly on occasion to the slipperyness of the carbon...any thoughts on that? I know it's easy enough to put a couple of bolts through the tail assembly.

thanks, P

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01-24-2009 02:18 PM  9 years agoPost 16
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA - USA

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If you use the true carbon fiber booms, yes, you could throw the tail assembly off. The Ally booms don't seem to have the same issue because they don't compress/deform as easily. But, I still have mine pinned. Took about 5 minutes. Small drill bit, 1 sacraficial screw to tap, and then the final new set screw with a drop of loc tite.
Just as a tip, for my sacraficial screw, I cut the end off at an angle and then cut a vertical slit up the threads. I self fabricated a traditional self tapping machine screw. Rather than trying to dig into the ally with a flat screw, the angle and notch tapped in very clean and smooth and pulled out the trimmings.

Head
In response to the original thread: I fly almost on a daily basis. I have well over 250 flights on my 600 and upgraded to the kasama head. The NSP all metal head isn't shabby, but it is had some interaction I was never able to get out. On my Kasama had, I have -6 (left ail) (X9303) mix programmed into negative pitch. That's all it took to get it perfect. With the align head, I was programming Pitch to Aileron Pos and Neg AND even programming Elevator to Pitch as well. The thing was all over the place. Not a huge deal, but if you are trying to precisely do things 5-10 feet off the ground and it isn't going exactly where you are telling it too...well, then you just might want to consider a head upgrade. This is just my experience and for the most part...and for most people...I don't think the NSP head is all that bad. I still have it as a spare. With enough time and patience I was able to get "most" of the interactions out.

Bearings
I have also been experiencing some bearing wear. But I attribute that to my excessive flying. I don't buy into the Cheap bearing argument. Bearings wear out, period. I have replaced all the bearings in my main blocks due to crashes. I believe they will last over 200 flights..but I tend to crash about once every 100+ flights.

I have worn out the bearings in the Boom Block and the bearings in the Clutch Stack. I only mention it, not because I think align bearings suck, but rather you should have a couple spares of these bearings laying around for when they need to be replaced. I replaced the head bearings with some more expesive one's from McMasters...but all the rest were replaced with Align Bearings. 200+ flights...that's not bad for some seriously $$$ cheap bearings.

All in all, this heli is a great (light) flying machine at a great value.

Summary:
1) Pin the boom to eliminate any doubts
2) Keep some spare bearings, you'll need them around the 200-250 mark
3) Plan on a little head interactions if you are looking for absolute perfect precision. If you aren't looking for perfection, you probably won't ever notice. It's a decent head.
4) Fly Fly Fly and enjoy the affordable replacement costs.

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01-24-2009 02:44 PM  9 years agoPost 17
McRex

rrVeteran

AZ-USA

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I'm sorry, I don't have a 600NSP but I have a 600E with TT tail and CF tail boom. When you guys are talking about pinning the boom, that's to keep the tail gearbox from twisting? I ask because I had this happen the other day, the whole thing spun around and chewed up my tail blades, but the gearbox was tight, couldn't get it any tighter. I've flown it since, and it hasn't moved, but it's always in the back of my mind now. When pinning, do o actually drill into the tail boom, or just run a set screw to it?

Thanks

Daniel, AMA # 923248

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01-24-2009 02:48 PM  9 years agoPost 18
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA - USA

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Yes, drill a hole all the way thru into the boom and then use a short screw that goes thru the gearbox and just into the boom...not so long that it would interfere with the TT or Belt.

Also, I didn't trust the single screw squeeze tab and went with a longer bolt and lock nut so that I could really tighten down on it. Taking a photo now...will post it shortly.

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01-24-2009 02:58 PM  9 years agoPost 19
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA - USA

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A little dirty, but you can see the Lock Nut and set screw on the top. You could just as easily go in from the side, behind the tail fin, or the bottom. I preferred easy access and went on the top with a low profile button head screw. Didn't look too bad to me.

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01-24-2009 04:20 PM  9 years agoPost 20
McRex

rrVeteran

AZ-USA

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Rototerrier, thanks so much for the great description and photos, I appreciate the help.

Daniel, AMA # 923248

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