RunRyder RC
 2  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 1 page 979 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › pitch setup
01-17-2009 05:22 PM  9 years agoPost 1
Sodi

rrNovice

Sydney

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Could you help on the pitch setup that would be used in a f3c heli interms of the hover mode, flight mode and transitional landing mode and then your main idle up 3 mode. I am just trying to see what would be ideal and then to compare it to were i am . This would be on a 90 size hirobo wc3 or wc ex hpm

Thanks
Sodi

Rossi46

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
01-17-2009 05:28 PM  9 years agoPost 2
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

With a completely linear curve to start, set the model up for +12 to -9 or 10. Center the collective mechanically on +1 to +1.5 degrees of pitch. Then adjust you pitch curve in the radio to hover at half stick, and the top and bottom to produce the best collective feel in hover. This will usually be about +9 to -4'ish

For idle up(s), you'll carry as much pitch as the engine can handle without loading and to yield 1900-1950 head speed with a 7.75 or 7.9 gear ratio. Negative pitch is more maneuver specific and should be set as required. -5 or -6 degrees is a good start.

For translational landings, you'll run a maybe just a bit more headspeed than hover (or you could even use the hover mode) and little more negative than required to assure a steady rate of descent.

Ben Minor

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-17-2009 07:26 PM  9 years agoPost 3
Four Stroker

rrElite Veteran

Atlanta

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ben;

Do FAI guys use SPLINE curves ?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 02:21 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

It rather depends on the set up, blades, and head. On some blades and heads, you can use a linear curve with no trouble, simply adjusting the slope of the line above and below hover point to get the correct collective sensitivity. Unfortunately, some blades and head designs can be jumpy around center/hover point, and in those cases we'll use the spline curve to soften the feel without losing the authority above or below half stick to control the model when it gets hit by the wind. For the most part, linear curves work fine in the aeros.

Ben

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 04:37 AM  9 years agoPost 5
F3CWNB

rrVeteran

Napier, New Zealand

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

What do you mean by "spline curves"?

'Life' is Looking Up!!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 01:03 PM  9 years agoPost 6
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

No sharp angles(linear) in the curve line, radiused, hence spline. The 14mz can automatically program splines. The older radios you would have to adjust the points in order to smooth the transition from one area to another. Below is an example of curves and what they could look like.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 04:05 PM  9 years agoPost 7
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Mike has spent more time on this set up for the past day or so than he'll care to admit.................<g>.

Ben

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 06:08 PM  9 years agoPost 8
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

That's funny....I deserve that too. The head setup on the evo 90 is complete except for paddles, I am getting ready to weigh them out on gram scales and make sure they are equal. This is the SSZ-II head, look familiar Collin?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 06:24 PM  9 years agoPost 9
F3CWNB

rrVeteran

Napier, New Zealand

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Beautiful...

Please make sure that all fasteners are secure – you can never be too sure...

'Life' is Looking Up!!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 06:57 PM  9 years agoPost 10
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Completly gone over top to bottom. All new rod ends, bearing fits checked and lubed, locktited all . And spent a long time on linkage setup and other things..as someone eluded to above .
(really should get the washout arms in aluminum)

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-18-2009 07:02 PM  9 years agoPost 11
F3CWNB

rrVeteran

Napier, New Zealand

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

really should get the washout arms in aluminum
Yes, that would complete the picture

'Life' is Looking Up!!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-19-2009 12:40 AM  9 years agoPost 12
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

When you get the chance, lose that set screw upper mast lock in favor of the Evo split clamp version. The latter kind is FAR more secure and doesn't scar the surface of the mainshaft. I'm rather surprised that since your model is an Evo that it doesn't have one already.

When you want the bling washout arms, get the ones for the E3. They cost about the same (though don't include the A arms) as the regular EX upgrade, but their bearing spacing is the same as what you have now. What you have now is actually better supported at the bearings than the standard EX arms.

It's a pretty head. Now don't eff it up by letting the start shaft hit the grips.......<g>.

Ben

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-19-2009 01:21 AM  9 years agoPost 13
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Its from the Freya parts. I'll put it on my list. Do you have a part number for the E3 arms? Yeah I will try to not f it up with the starter shaft. Especially since I already flipped the one side of the flybar cage end around because someone else had touched it with the starter shaft...lol...any guesses?
Update,E3 Arm = 0414-438

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-19-2009 04:29 AM  9 years agoPost 14
F3CWNB

rrVeteran

Napier, New Zealand

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

lose that set screw upper mast lock in favor of the Evo split clamp version
I don't think I have seen one of thoses... do you have a pic of that?
someone else had touched it with the starter shaft
Not guilty...

'Life' is Looking Up!!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-19-2009 10:13 AM  9 years agoPost 15
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Here is the mast lock Ben was referring to, its a pinch clamp. Part number 0414-312
Not worried about the mark on the head at all....lol.
Those stinking arms are $40 each! I would assume they come with bearings. May have to wait on that as I need a new Fromeco battery pack first.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-19-2009 06:14 PM  9 years agoPost 16
F3CWNB

rrVeteran

Napier, New Zealand

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Of course... I misunderstood what Dr Ben was talking about - I have these on some of my machines

'Life' is Looking Up!!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-04-2009 02:14 PM  9 years agoPost 17
torenhg

rrApprentice

Orange County, SoCal

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Appreciate all of the information here, will help me to set up for my next adventures and future parts purchase and repair...

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 1 page 979 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › pitch setup
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 2  Topic Subscribe

Friday, June 22 - 3:00 am - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online