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HomeScaleAircraftHelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Funkey H500 defender 50 size C of G and cooling question.
01-16-2009 09:35 PM  9 years agoPost 1
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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Hey scalers.

I am a pod and boomer with my first scale machine. It's the H 500 Defender from funkey. I am using sceadu mechanics. Hyper 50 powered.
It's heavy. More like the weight of a 90 ship. Does anyone know if the 50 will lift it without overheating?? I imagine this is pretty standard and will make it a heavy flying heli which isn't all bad.

Also it's tail heavy. I need to put 6 oz of weight (at this stage two 1400 mah NIMH batteries that I can use for the lighting system.
Apart from the light's I have nothing else in this bird except for the header tank. 6 oz will balance the skids level. Have others found this to be the case and what did you do about it.

Cheers for any advice.

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01-16-2009 09:42 PM  9 years agoPost 2
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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Whats the all up weight? I needed a big battery to balance my Raptor, scale helis coming out tail heavy isn't unusal. My TT MD530 weighs a little over a pound more than a stock Titan and it flys like it doesn't know the fuselage is there with a Hyper. I don't put the windows in but I'm probably going to install the front ones next time I have it apart, I don't have any cooling issues.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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01-16-2009 11:13 PM  9 years agoPost 3
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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I used a cheap scale so don't know how accurate it is but it's showing 10 pounds with two extra 1400 batteries up front for balance (6.6 oz) so without those dead weights it would be 9.5 pounds without fuel or blades. My freya weighs 11 pounds less fuel.
I guess the hyper will be working fairly hard.
I think by memory my sceadu was about 7.5 to 8 pounds stock.
No windows in the sides.
The fuse is light when held by itself but I never weighed it to see what it would come out at.

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01-17-2009 12:50 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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I have read about a few disasters with these fuses and the trex 600E. I had a 600 once and it was very flexible in the frames. The sceadu is quite a bit stiffer when all tightened up. Could the flex and resulting mid air explosions be more related to the 600E?
I wonder if i need to put a light but strong ply former and glass it in to provide a bit more stiffness to the rear fuse. It does have quite a bit of flex down the tail.

I may move the tail servo to the front and get it off the boom...A. To transfer weight from the back to the front and B. To allow a small boom stifffener to be fabricated to reduce flex down the boom.
(like mini boom supports)

Has anyone else run a sceadu nitro in one of these funkey (century) H500's stock without any issues. I have flown the sceadu 5 time in pod and boom form to iron out any issues and it's smooth.

Any help appreciated.
Thanks for your input barracuda

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01-17-2009 12:43 PM  9 years agoPost 5
Crewdogg998

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Michigan

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I'm curious about what you are going to do about the length of the tail boom. I have the same machine and was thinking of installing it in the same fuse but was discouraged by the fact that the boom extends well past the fuse boom. Confused?

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01-17-2009 01:45 PM  9 years agoPost 6
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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i have the 50 size MD500E witha sceadu running the hyper 50 and turning 5 blades on the head and four on the tail. no issues at all. i have all the servos located a bit further aft of their original location to allow a scale cockpit.some weight in the nose as well to keep the cg happy. this sucker got heavy quick but that hyper doesn't seem to give a crap.

see it fly in the ircha 08 scale heli vids.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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01-17-2009 08:23 PM  9 years agoPost 7
Crewdogg998

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Michigan

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Copter, how did you get the tail case to come up to the rear of the fuse? I can't move my mech any farther forward without hitting the pitch arm/swash. Is there a shorter boom avalible? I'm sure Helinutz would like to know too.. Crewdogg

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01-17-2009 09:38 PM  9 years agoPost 8
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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Copter, how did you get the tail case to come up to the rear of the fuse? I can't move my mech any farther forward without hitting the pitch arm/swash. Is there a shorter boom avalible? I'm sure Helinutz would like to know too..
I am a bit confused by this crewdogg...I had to shorten my boom (fuse) by 18mm (16mm in the instructions) and the tail case comes up to and within 2mm of touching the fuse tail boom. I have the sceadu mounted in the stock holes in the plywood floor as in the instructions.
i have the 50 size MD500E witha sceadu running the hyper 50 and turning 5 blades on the head and four on the tail. no issues at all. i have all the servos located a bit further aft of their original location to allow a scale cockpit.some weight in the nose as well to keep the cg happy. this sucker got heavy quick but that hyper doesn't seem to give a crap.
Copter doctor....can I ask a further few questions from you as we are running the same gear except I can't afford to put on the multibladed setup right now.

1. Whats your all up weight....no fuel?

2. Did you strengthen the fuse anywhere from stock?

3. Can you grab the boom and wiggle it at all noticing that it flexes a bit around the bottom of the dog house etc. If so it hasn't caused you any problems or concerns?

4. Have you heard a few have destroyed themselves when fitted with the trex 600e mechanics? I am wondering if the greater rigidity of the sceadu frameset holds the doghouse area much stiffer and prevents this problem happening. I made up a former to glue in there but won't if it isn't necessary as i may cause more harm than good.

5. Do you run any sort of boom stiffener inside of the fuse or just allow the F/G boom to act as the stiffener?

6. Would the multibladed setup be any diff for vibe issues than a stock two bladed setup with flybar? Which 5 bladed setup do you run?

Thanks again for any help. I am bustin to get this set of mechanics in there.

Cheers
Glenn

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01-17-2009 11:11 PM  9 years agoPost 9
Crewdogg998

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Michigan

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Helinutz, you reminded me... I have had this fuse a long time now and just remembered that I had to cut about an inch off the tail boom for the Raptor mech that were installed before. I guess I 'll have to think of something else. Thanks for clearing the cobwebs!

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01-17-2009 11:45 PM  9 years agoPost 10
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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no worries....yes the rappy has a shorter boom.....bugger.
You could glass some onto the end of it sand up and mask it off and maybe paint a totally different color around the tail where the repair is.

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01-18-2009 04:20 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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oky here i go,
as for the tail case and the end of the fg boom, i did have to cut the fg boom about 1/4 of an inch or so to get the tail case to rest up against the boom. it is a snug fit ans is so because i wanted no play ore back and forth movement of the boom in relation to the casing. see, this way there is some rigidity that will utilize the fg boom as a brace. that helps to keep shaking to a minimum or zero.
the boom is the std sceadu boom.
i will weigh it to get the exact weight as i am not sure.
i did not strengthen any part of the fuse, so far, had no reason to.
havent noticed any flexing arount the boom or doghouse.
ther eis a bulkhead in the doghouse that has holes for the supplied braces to attatch the doghouse to the frames. i have used those and may be why i havent had any flexing.
as mentioned above, the fg boom was trimmed to have a tight fit up against the tail casing for rigidity.
the flybared setup was run on this ship for a while before it was even painted as in that one pic above. i did this before anything is done because i dont want towait til i have hours of work on it to find out i have a vibrating problem or some other issue that may require citting the fuse or something like that. after a few tankfulls of flight, when i take thngs apart,i check for anything that might be rubbing or wearing. once thats good, its back to pod n boom for the mechs and keep flying it til the fuse is ready to be flown again.
the multibladed head if balanced should have no effect at all. it is important that the blades are snug in the grips but not too snug that they wont center from cetrifugal force and not too lose that they wont stay centered. the head i am using is home made or a better term is home assembled as the only part i made was the center hub and i had that done at the machine shop. the grips, feathering shafts and flex plates are form kyosho's nexus and kalts enforcer (or space baron to our uk mates) the blades are 2 and 1/2 pairs from the century hawk pro.
hope that answered all the questions

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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01-18-2009 06:55 AM  9 years agoPost 12
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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thanks very much copter...one thing....do you have a brace on the boom at all?

I see in your gallery a pic of the modified sceadu frame and at the back it looks like a boom brace on there??? Or was that just for testing as a pod and boom?

Thanks for all the answers. I will just fly it without adding extra weight and see how it goes. I will definately be using the upper doghouse mounts to the mechanics.

Cheers!

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01-18-2009 06:58 AM  9 years agoPost 13
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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oh, yeah, the bom brace is only in in place onthe pod n boom configuration. i tend to run the headsped onmy multiblade heads as low as i can get away with. its the headspeed that still keeps the engine running fast enough to have power, and run cool. i dont like a screaming multibladed head, it just scares the crap out of me and is quite intimidating

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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01-18-2009 08:10 AM  9 years agoPost 14
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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cool. Ta. I am off to the hobby room to fit that sucker back into the fuse in stock form and keep my fingers crossed!!

Cheers for all the help.

Glenn

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01-18-2009 01:58 PM  9 years agoPost 15
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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LOL he's not kidding. His Jet Ranger head speed is so low he landed after 20 minutes with half a tank of fuel.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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01-18-2009 10:00 PM  9 years agoPost 16
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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Mechanics are back in.

How I did the tail rod. I didn't realise you guys tended to use sullivan type rods but I couldn't get the rod under the tailcase anyway so I just did it like this.. Works smooth. Yeah I know...the tail is on the wrong side (if it were anything other than sport scale I'd need a multiblade head etc and then it would be worth it but for now this will be fine)....I could flip it I guess but does that mean putting the tail rod on the top? The control arm could be flipped but I guess it would then be on the wrong angle to keep the tail control rod on the bottom. BTW...the foam ring is pushed pretty firmly into the tail boom only 58mm from the end so it's compressed a bit and the boom/tail fuse move together.

Is this all you have up in the top copter? I notice when all tied up together it stiffens the tail a lot but if I grab the boom at the end and move it side to side I still find a bit of flex in the tail to the rear portion of the fuse up to the front of the doghouse. Just a little. Could you check yours for me and tell me if it's stiff or has a bit of flex??

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01-19-2009 05:33 PM  9 years agoPost 17
Crewdogg998

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Michigan

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Looks great! You have the fuse anchored properly up top. As long as the foam ring is snug in the back as it seems to be, you'll be ok. The tail fin has been known to cause fits if the fuse is not secure or the machine has a blade balance problem. If you have a vibration issue you'll see it in the tail fin pretty quick. Crewdogg

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01-19-2009 08:31 PM  9 years agoPost 18
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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Helinutz, yea that is the bracing i am using, just like you are. i currently have my mechs out of the fuse as i am clearcoating the paint. after ircha i learned that the metalic colors for the rustoleum isnt fuel proof like their regular colors are so i had some sanding, repainting and now clearing to do. i do not believe i had any unusual flex in the tail section as i may have noticed, course it doesnt shake so i had no reason to look. i will check when it is back in the fuse. withthe flipping of my tail, i did run the pushrod on top but as it goes back to the servo, it curves around the boom (or spiral a better word) to where the servo is. i use the piano wire and run it in a flex antenna housing type tube so it is easy to route and it is taped in place to the boom so it fits in the fuse's boom without taking up any space.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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01-20-2009 01:11 AM  9 years agoPost 19
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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cool hey thanks for your input guys. I'll be doing a maiden this weekend hopefully so will let ya know how it goes. Have a couple of braces I can glue in if there is and problems in the tail. As a pod and boomer it was pretty stable in the tail and the blades are sharp....no tracking issues.

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