RunRyder RC
 2  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 1 page 779 views POST REPLY
01-16-2009 05:29 AM  9 years agoPost 1
Dan d bman

rrNovice

miami, florida USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I'm dissapointed with the quality of the plastic bevel gears in the rave. I wish some better ones would become available. Don't get me wrong I like my Rave exept for the weak bevel gears.

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 07:36 AM  9 years agoPost 2
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Why are you haveing issues stripping gears? And how are you stripping them? We have found them to be actually pretty tuff if you keep the tail blades out of the dirt. So I am curious what is going on. If something is off we will certainly address it.

Brian

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 12:35 PM  9 years agoPost 3
Goose(is dead...)

rrApprentice

UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hey there Dan???
Fragile bevel gears?

That's a newbie. Are you talking abou tthe one's in the tail gearbox or the one's in the gearbox running off the smaller main on the vertical shaft.

I've got $20 on you may have missed the addendum instruction sheet that tells you not to insert a washer on the first boom clamp at the back of the main frame and your tail boom as a whole is slipping out. Could this at all be the explanation?

any pics so everyone can help???

- g

Vibe 90 & 50 WITH flybars (old skool), CY Rave, flying for many years, talent rating, absolute zero

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 04:50 PM  9 years agoPost 4
Sky Dancer

rrVeteran

Bryan, Texas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hi Dan,

Have you ever stripped gears while in the air? If so, there may be a problem with your gear lash adjustment or a loose boom like Goose mentioned. The only time I've stripped any gears is when I was landing during very high winds and caught the TR blades on the edge of a piece of carpet we use for a landing pad. You should never have any problems with gears in the air.

The thing I like best about these sacrificial gears is their quiet and when I've stripped a gear (hit something), I've never damaged the torque tube drive system. The gears are so easy to change right at the field in just a few minutes. And, they only cost $9.99 http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/rav...etail.php?id=81

On the flip side, I must say, I've seen models with belt drives that I've witnessed breaking in the air and the result is not pretty (and is expensive).

Have you ever stripped any gears in the air? How did it happen?

Don C

Keep up your rotor speed !

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 04:56 PM  9 years agoPost 5
USNAviationjay

rrElite Veteran

Houston Tx USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ive crashed my Rave several times now and never damaged the TT bevel gears..
the only time I ever did was my own moronic fault during setup when i was too lazy to take it outside for gyro setup and it piroed into a shoe lol.
they are pretty tough.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 04:57 PM  9 years agoPost 6
Rick

rrApprentice

ny, ny

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I have found the bevel gears to be very strong and failure free as long as the lash is correct. This has to be set right.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 06:25 PM  9 years agoPost 7
inkspot1967

rrProfessor

Cranston Ri

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

i agree with above statement with Rick ,they need to be set right mine have been bullet proff for over 100 flights and i have touched the tail a few times, still going strong.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 06:29 PM  9 years agoPost 8
dhoffack

rrApprentice

lanham, md, MHA member

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

How do you know when the gear lash is set right with the torque tube?

thanks,

Dan

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 06:40 PM  9 years agoPost 9
inkspot1967

rrProfessor

Cranston Ri

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

you need to make sure the gears line up perfect with no over lap

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 07:33 PM  9 years agoPost 10
Sky Dancer

rrVeteran

Bryan, Texas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hi Dan,

This is the way I set the gear lash:

First, remove the tail boom from the model (leave the boom clamps tight on the tail boom).

Next, remove the front tail transition support on the front of the tail boom clamp.

Now, check to see if there is any end to end play on the tail rotor output shaft in the TR gearbox. If so, use shims to eliminate the end play.

Now, check to see how much clearance is in the bevel gears in the tail rotor gear box. If it seems like too much, first remove the 2X10mm allen bolt that pins the TR gear box to the bottom of the tail boom (step 5-2) and then loosen the 2X6mm allen bolt that clamps the tail rotor gear box to the tail boom. Now, just move the tail rotor gear box in a little on the tail boom to tighten up the gear lash then retighten the 2X6mm bolt on the clamp.

Then, I like to spin the tail rotor using my finger on the front bevel gear on the torque tube. It should be very smooth without any binding and have a little gear lash (plastic gears don't wear in). When it's smooth reinstall the 2X10mm allen bolt that pins the TR gearbox to the tail boom.

Now, reinstall the front tail transition assembly (make sure there is no up and down end play). Then check the clearance between these bevel gears. If they seem too loose, loosen the two 2X6mm allen bolts that hold on the tail transition support and then press downward on it (toward the flat gear) while tightening the 2X6mm bolts. This will take up some slack between those bevel gears.

Now, spin the TR assembly again using the 24T flat gear and all should be smooth (no irregular drag) and you will have a little gear lash.

Now, reinstall the tail boom and tighten up all bolts. Check to see if there is very much clearance between the 24T flat gear and the 100T tail drive gear. If there is too much clearance, just loosen the two 2X6mm bolts on the tail boom clamps and slide the tail boom a little further inward. Now, spin the main rotor by hand to see if there is any binding. If so just slide the tail boom back a little. Once everything's smooth tighten both tail boom clamps and check all bolts.

The tail drive system should run smooth and the tip of my TR blades move back and forth about 10mm (accumulated play).

This may sound like a lot to do but I found it was just plain fun and it only took a few minutes. And once set you don't have to worry about gear lash again. Even when changing out the bevel gears I just do a quick check.

Don C

Keep up your rotor speed !

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 09:48 PM  9 years agoPost 11
Carbon Copter

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

The gears are so easy to change right at the field in just a few minutes. And, they only cost $9.99
Don -Is it 9.99 for a pack of 4 like it looks in the pic? $2.50 each? Sounds good too me. All these Holidays and Birthdays, I can't get in the air! --Last weekend of partying. Should hit air next week. Vibe 50 time this weekend...

~oo~ Stop fogging up my glasses

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-16-2009 10:33 PM  9 years agoPost 12
Sky Dancer

rrVeteran

Bryan, Texas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hi Carbon Copter,

Yes, that pack includes 4 replacement bevel gears for the torque tube and I keep a pack of those just in case.

However, the pack I really like the best has a complete TR gear set and it's only $12.99! That's cool....
http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/rav...etail.php?id=79

I've been told if you strip a gear (say in a crash) it's safer to just replace all the TR gears for security.

Hope you get back in the air soon.

Don C

Keep up your rotor speed !

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 1 page 779 views POST REPLY
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 2  Topic Subscribe

Wednesday, June 20 - 8:19 pm - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online