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HomeAircraftHelicopterCompass Knight 50 ODIN 90 › suggested upgrades for the k3d
01-15-2009 06:21 AM  9 years agoPost 1
az_heliguy

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San Tan Valley, AZ

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i am waiting for my k3d to arrive and would like to know what the current k3d owners would suggest as upgrades. i am going to be putting the full metal head on as well as the metal tail box, but what are some other things that are a well deserved upgrade?

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01-15-2009 06:38 AM  9 years agoPost 2
Ruff

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Queen Creek, AZ

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The upgraded start shaft assembly was more of a necessity for me than an upgrade. I had a lot of problems with the stock setup.

Other than that, the K3D needs nothing but fuel....

Ruff

http://srcha.com

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01-15-2009 07:03 AM  9 years agoPost 3
Dood

rrProfessor

Wescanson

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not really needed, but I know of a few guys, myself included, who are using the *&%#cough*$# Align carbon boom supports.

They might be lighter weight than stock, but I don't have any numbers to support that. I just think they look nice.

You'll need a horizontal fin band that has holes in the side to make them work.

I recommend buying a few extra plastic gyro mounting plates. Mount them where ever you can u can upfront, and you'll get a lot of nice options for mounting electronics.

Also, get (or make your own) a conversion kit for mounting your tail servo up front. Knight 3D's like to come out tail heavy, this is a good fix. It keeps the servo out of the exhaust juice too.

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01-15-2009 12:53 PM  9 years agoPost 4
hornet dave

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Cedar Rapids, IA USA

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I got my kit back about 9 months ago and it's start shaft assembly is just fine, I'm guessing it's the newer design but I don't know for sure. Check to see if your kit has the newer style shaft assembly before ordering a new one.

Full metal head? Most of it is already metal, except for the grips. No need for upgrades unless you just really like the looks of metal grips.

Unless you want to use a really heavy battery pack, you will want to get the tail servo relocation kit. If you do this, you will probably want to spend the $3 to get a 90 degree fuel fitting to replace the vent line fitting on the top of the fuel tank. If you don't, the pushrod will rub against the fuel tank pressure line (do a search, I posted the part number here at RR). Other than that, I had some issues with the clunk line getting stuck in the front lower corner of the tank, causing the motor to die when inverted, so I moved the fuel pickup location to fix this issue.

The align t-rex 600 boom supports are in fact lighter than the compass boom supports; I'm using the QUK boom support clamp for the trex 600, and it's lighter than the compass boom supports but does not allow mounting the horizontal fin. That's fine, however, because the whole point of changing the boom supports is to lighten the tail on this tailheavy heli. If you use the QUK tail clamp, be sure to mount it upside down (with the clamp screw on the top) or else it will interfere with the tail control rod. But in all honest, put the heli together the way you want it, then check the balance and the way it flies, then consider taking weight off of the tail if it's appropriate. I'm a weight snob, but many other people simply but in a heavy battery into this heli, it balances fine that way, and they're happy with the heli. I don't know if the metal tail box is any heavier than the plastic one (I would guess that it is heavier, it being aluminum..) so that may make it more challenging to balance the heli. You'll just have to give it a try and see what happens.

I got a fever! The only prescription is MORE 6HV

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01-15-2009 03:33 PM  9 years agoPost 5
az_heliguy

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San Tan Valley, AZ

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i was thinking of the align carbon boom supports, i use those on my raven, lol... cant beat the price of them either, lol... as for the head, i know its just the grips that need to be replced seeing the rest of it is metal. this one has the 6mm spindle, is there any more of an advantage of getting the 8mm spindle?

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01-15-2009 06:59 PM  9 years agoPost 6
evo4ever

rrApprentice

kenna w.v.

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The 8mm spindle is needed if you do anything above mild 3d it is easy to fit other than that front mounted tail servo is useful other than those two things leave it stock and enjoy it flies great

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01-15-2009 07:55 PM  9 years agoPost 7
jiberjaber

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Essex, UK

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There is very little that needs upgrading out of the box with this heli, as posted previously - it flys out of the box great. I would keep the plastic blade grips. They are sacrificial in a crash and a lot cheaper than a new swash plate or similar!

Here's some tips I picked up from Rob Blake who has built and set up loads of these for the likes of Ade Law etc...

If you have bought the kit new, in the UK it should have the upgraded starter shaft and 8mm head in it, it should have the Kevlar belt as well, if not it's part number 98-18000B - very bomb proof!. Hopefully this is the same for the US.

I second the purchase of another two gyro mounting plates (the plastic ones). There is space up front for one horizontal and one kinda vertical to go with the one in the kit on the rear in the usual place.

If you have the black main gear - it is worth buying the white CNC one (02-3601). The black one will shatter in a crash, the CNC one doesnt.

Also buy some metal cross members I think the part number is 02-1805, replace the front board with two of them - that will make it a lot easier to change glow plugs etc.

On the rear, move one of the metal cross members which is under the tank and swap it for where the boom supports attach to add strength for in a crash.

The swash balls are red locktit'ed in place. If you need to replace them, it's an oven job, else you will just shear the bolt and end up with a useless swash plate! (personal experiance on this one!)

Ensure the pinion is green locktited into the bearing on the clutch stack.

Ensure the starter coupler is green locktited on to the starter shaft and on the grub screw. Flying starter couplers are a blade killer for sure!

Make sure you are working from the right version of the manual, mine came with the 6mm manual!

http://www.compassmodel.com/manuals...t_3D_manual.pdf
http://www.compassmodel.com/manuals/Knight_3D_parts.pdf

Make sure the mast retaining collar is under the upper bearing the right way up.

When you have finally mounted your engine, start it up with the clutch stack frame bolts loose, this will allow the clutch stack to align itself with the crank.

Check the tail for lateral play in the output shaft. A couple of shim washers might be needed - sorry I cant remember the dimensions.

Enjoy your Knight - they are great! Be careful of the cyclic throws when you first fly it, you will be amazed how quick it is to get yourself in to trouble because it is so agile! Enjoy!

Hope this post is of use.

Regards, Jason
My Beam Build Log http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=13112

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01-15-2009 08:07 PM  9 years agoPost 8
az_heliguy

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San Tan Valley, AZ

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thanks guys...

once it gets here, ill be sure to check everything over (as usual)... i cant wait to get this heli and get it done and in the air too

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01-16-2009 12:20 AM  9 years agoPost 9
petmotel

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DeKalb, IL.

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suggested upgrades for the k3d
Odin

Jay

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01-29-2009 01:22 AM  9 years agoPost 10
az_heliguy

rrKey Veteran

San Tan Valley, AZ

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so the k3d is just about done now just got all the cyclic servos installed and setup, now im gonna do the throttle and tail setups. then its gonna be a task to find space for the rx, gv-1 and 2s lipo...

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01-29-2009 01:36 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Leon Brodie

rrApprentice

Brighton, Colorado - USA

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Ditto

Odin
Odin Odin

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01-31-2009 06:24 PM  9 years agoPost 12
az_heliguy

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San Tan Valley, AZ

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this bird is definately a little tail heavy, thats for sure... gonna have to do some tweaking to get it balanced

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02-02-2009 10:22 PM  9 years agoPost 13
az_heliguy

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San Tan Valley, AZ

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since i have my 401 mounted towards the tail end, does anyone else have theirs this way? if so, how have you ran your wires? i have the lead going to the rx along the side frame, but the rudder servo and lead to it from the gyro make a lot of wire and im having a fun time trying to keep it all clean pics would be helpful too

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02-02-2009 10:30 PM  9 years agoPost 14
Dood

rrProfessor

Wescanson

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I have my gyro mounted upside down underneath the radio tray.

I Dremeled away part of the frame just below the lowest servo slots (with the radio tray removed, of course) to make some room to fit a velcro strap.

It works pretty good down there.

Just another option if you're limited on space to mount your gyro.

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02-02-2009 11:00 PM  9 years agoPost 15
az_heliguy

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San Tan Valley, AZ

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i have the gyro mounted at the tail side of the frame, got an extra gyro mount and have the one up front and the other in back. i have my gov on the front one and gyro on the back one, but with the tail servo back there on the boom, that is a lot of wire to try and secure back there i would have to remove everything and try it again, was just curious if anyone else happened to have their gyro mounted in the back as well and how they ran the wires...

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02-04-2009 10:17 PM  9 years agoPost 16
aussie_g

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Travelers Rest, South Carolina, USA

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Here's My mess of wires..

Gareth

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02-04-2009 11:49 PM  9 years agoPost 17
az_heliguy

rrKey Veteran

San Tan Valley, AZ

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i was actually able to get it all taken care of today i just mounted the tail servo the other way and was able to get it all neat and out of the way, ill get some pics tonight and get them posted...

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