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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › TT53 bearings...
01-15-2009 03:21 AM  9 years agoPost 1
SP4772

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Mirabel, Québec, Canada

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Am i the only one having to change bearings after 30 or 40 flights? My other engine was a OS Hyper and my bearings lasted much more than that. Also, they are hard to remove and install in the engine. I put my casing in the oven like i use to do but i realy need to hit the thing on a piece of soft wood to get the rear bearing out. Even the crankchaft wont fall out easily. With my OS, it was falling appart alone when hot...

Now, i am trying some oil from Boca (after run). I'll see if there is a difference...

By the way, i always burn all the fuel after my last flight and i close all the lines and the carb to avoid oxydation in the engine.

WWJD??

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01-15-2009 03:31 AM  9 years agoPost 2
RaptorMan23

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Sioux City, IA

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Somthins not right then, if you heat it up the bearings should come right out

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01-15-2009 07:21 PM  9 years agoPost 3
Billebob

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Tim-buck-2

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Your TT53 has a warranty, why not use it. Typically these engines don't eat bearings and 30-40 flights says something is wrong.

BB

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01-15-2009 08:06 PM  9 years agoPost 4
TwistedRotor

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Yup

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Typically these engines don't eat bearings and 30-40 flights says something is wrong.
+1

I have about 10 gallons through mine. Used everything from CP30 to now using CP15MV and have yet to have any problems with bearings or the engine itself.

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01-16-2009 05:54 AM  9 years agoPost 5
SP4772

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Mirabel, Québec, Canada

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Thank you guys.

WWJD??

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01-16-2009 01:39 PM  9 years agoPost 6
Dino Spadaccini

rrElite Veteran

USA

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fuel run out
I would not recommend that every time you are finished flying it cause's the motor run dry which could damage the rear bearing. I never run them dry but will pull the plug and put some after run oil in the motor pull all the lines and turn the motor a few times, that is my winter setup. Also what fuel are you running, and how hot are you running the motor temp wise you should max out at 180*, the motor might be lean, If you are getting over speeding when you unload the head you are lean, the tt53 doesn’t give you that crackly sound when your on the high needle like other motors, but there is no way you should be going through bearing that fast I have the same about 10 gals on my first production motor. One more thing to look at did you get the new carb or are you still with the old one, the old style will give tuning problems plus the barrel might be sticking not giving a rich setting when the motor needs it. How does your liner look and ring and piston.

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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01-16-2009 04:36 PM  9 years agoPost 7
SP4772

rrApprentice

Mirabel, Québec, Canada

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Thank you for answering Dino... I do have the second version of the carb and even did modifications to it (cut spring in half, greased the slot and ball link on the left of the arm). Every time i change bearings, i grease the slot so it is very smooth there, no sticking problems. I am running 20% Magnum fuel (to save a bit $$) and i do not see a big difference in performance from the 30% Magnum i was running before. The thing i should try now is a governor. Maybe there is a little overspeeding here and there and that is causing my bearing problem. My temp is 190 maximum. Head speed aroud 2100 rpm.

My other concern is how the bearings and crankshaft are so difficult to remove... Maybe because of the oxydation, i don't know. Like i said, my OS never did that. I like the TT and would like to fly it more but not at the cost of changing bearings after 30 flights!

Thanks.

WWJD??

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01-16-2009 08:23 PM  9 years agoPost 8
Andy from Sandy

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Bedfordshire, UK

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fuel run out

I would not recommend that every time you are finished flying it cause's the motor run dry which could damage the rear bearing.
The motor will not run dry. There will always be some oil left from the fuel in the crankcase.

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01-16-2009 09:16 PM  9 years agoPost 9
jiberjaber

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Essex, UK

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Dino - when you say 180 are you talking F or C. Also where are you measureing the temperature, on the head or the bottom of the crank?

Regards, Jason
My Beam Build Log http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=13112

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01-17-2009 03:30 AM  9 years agoPost 10
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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temp
Temp 180 F
when I did temp the motor it was on the back of the head I really don’t go buy that but I was curious to see one day and that’s where it was making very good power for me. I do the finger test also and if the back plate is a little warm to warm your good,if its hot like you can only do a 2 or 3 sec count your on the hot side the TT53 likes to be a little richer then most other motors. When you start to be on it the motor will bear down and lean into the needle some never falling off the rpm at that point.

also check this thread out this might be happening

http://www.runryder.com/t477350p1/?top=1232162966

Dino

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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01-17-2009 04:01 AM  9 years agoPost 11
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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I'll by a ticket to see a glow engine running at 180 D C <G>

Ben

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01-17-2009 09:39 AM  9 years agoPost 12
jiberjaber

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Essex, UK

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LOL - no nead to Ben, here's my YS50 from a few months ago when I had a problem!

Dino - I have a carbsmart on mine, and whilst I have eliminated most of the bogging, it is running at about 98 deg C on the head. Isnt 180F = 82Deg C ? That seems very low, Mine was around that temperature but with little to no power so I think I am about 4-5 clicks in leaner from that running 30% rapicon. I have never taken the head off, so I have no idea if it is shimm'ed, none arrived in the box.

Regards, Jason
My Beam Build Log http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=13112

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01-17-2009 02:10 PM  9 years agoPost 13
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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hmmmm
Ok well I am not going to run out side at the moment and test that because its 12* F out side, I could be off on the temp gunning. Like I said I really don’t go by that I just fly the motor till I think its happy and making good power for me, but now you have me thinking and after looking at the chart I will test it again with the gun. That is great info with the eagle tree Dino.

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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01-17-2009 04:32 PM  9 years agoPost 14
jiberjaber

rrApprentice

Essex, UK

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Woooo... Dino... that is off a YS50 I was having troubles with, not the TT53

I flew three tanks through today, I am no where near a 3D master, but I can load up the head with a tic toc or any other ham fisted move I try LOL.

98 degrees was the max temp I saw on the head today, using a multigov pro.

Hope that helps

Regards, Jason
My Beam Build Log http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=13112

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01-17-2009 05:30 PM  9 years agoPost 15
baddynergy

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sierra madre, ca- usa

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I have been running mine at 110C for a year with the carbsmart set at 70%gain. It is STRONG at 2050 headspeed in a 600N, unboggable.

**Unattended children will be givin a shot of espresso and a puppy**

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01-17-2009 05:47 PM  9 years agoPost 16
jiberjaber

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Essex, UK

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I guess I a more wrried about blowing the thing up! I have been through 4 engines last year, and this is the longest lasting one so far. I think there is more power to be had out of it, but I dont want to go to far and blow it up LOL

Regards, Jason
My Beam Build Log http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=13112

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01-20-2009 01:27 PM  9 years agoPost 17
Dino Spadaccini

rrElite Veteran

USA

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shims
number PN0311 includes the shims for RL-53H (0.1mm, 0.2mm,and 0.4mm for each packet.)

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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01-20-2009 02:09 PM  9 years agoPost 18
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA - USA

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Rear Bearing went out in my brand new RedLine after about 5 gallons. No problem getting the bearing out, had a hell of a time getting it back in. I reheated the engine before installing and had to do the "old bearing on top of the new bearing and beat it in" trick.

i replaced it with a $6 bearing from McMaster. Will see how that holds up. About 2 gallons into it so far and still smooth. The bearing never went out on my last redline. Well over 15 gallons and the bearing was silky smooth when I took it apart.

I think it's just hit and miss with bearings. Crap quality control everywhere you look these days, regardless of product.

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01-20-2009 04:25 PM  9 years agoPost 19
alfred

rrVeteran

Australia, New South Wales, Mid North Coast

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If you heat the casing in the oven for bearing removal, then you "might" just be leaving it in there for too long and you are heating up the bearings as well, which will then also expand, although at a lesser amount.
I use a paint stripping gun with small nozzle and a heat glove working my way around the back or front casing. This gives me the required expansion before the bearing heats up.

When re-assembling, I use the oven technique plus the bearings go in the Freezer for 20~30 minutes.

Just offering another option to try.
Just don't "bang" the bearings in. Using the crankshaft as a guide, a very slight tapping if any, is all that should be required.
Any more then that and things are not going right.

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01-20-2009 06:21 PM  9 years agoPost 20
jiberjaber

rrApprentice

Essex, UK

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Thanks Dino. I have just double checked my box here in the UK and no shims - that part number isnt showing up on the UK sites either. I was sure I read somewhere that the UK ones come pre-set for 30% from the factory with the idle needle flush with the carb case, but I cant seem to find that statement in the instructions, it just says 10-30% nitro. I wonder if the shims are already in the head? I dont want to drop the engine at the moment as the heli is fairly sweet running as is - but it does bog quite badly in aileron tic tocs.

Regards, Jason
My Beam Build Log http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/showthread.php?t=13112

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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › TT53 bearings...
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