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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › broken pull start mechanism - What does yours look like? [pics]
01-12-2009 04:34 PM  9 years agoPost 1
kaon

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Singapore

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Hi all,

My Hirobo SST Eagle2 GS is out of action because of a little plastic part in the pull start mechanism.

I have used epoxy on the pawl, but I doubt it will be strong enough.

There seems to be a design problem here.
The 2 "teeth" of the white string reel cannot engage the pawl along their full height, because the pull reel is set away from the engine base by the thickness of the engine mount plate.

Perhaps I have to abandon the pull start, fix a cone onto the 8mm threaded crank shaft, for an electric starter.

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01-13-2009 02:44 AM  9 years agoPost 2
CitationX

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Danville, IN

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Pull Start
I bought this one from BH Hanson. It took some modification to get it to work on my Spectra-G. However, it may bolt right on to your Hirobo. Have a look:

http://www.bhhanson.com/ez%20recoil%20starter.jpg

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01-14-2009 06:26 PM  9 years agoPost 3
kaon

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Singapore

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epoxy fix
Wasn't able to find a place with these parts, so epoxy it is...
Probably won't last long.

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01-15-2009 03:32 AM  9 years agoPost 4
Excalibur

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Kaon:

You may have better luck with JB Weld instead of a general purpose epoxy. It may not last much longer, but I think you'll have a better chance of even a short-term success.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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01-17-2009 05:26 AM  9 years agoPost 5
kaon

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Singapore

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broke after a short test hover.

It was fine for about 20 pulls in priming and starting, then after completing a 3-minute test hover, I found that the pull start no longer catches.

It probably broke during the highspeed banging while engine ran.

May try a metal-filled epoxy as suggested.
This was "Bob Smith 15min mid-cure" by the way.

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01-17-2009 06:46 PM  9 years agoPost 6
kaon

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Singapore

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Pried off the all the remnant BobSmith and used 0.3mm sheet aluminum with Bostik Super Steel (6-8 hour initial setting):

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01-18-2009 04:15 AM  9 years agoPost 7
Excalibur

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That might just do it. . . at least until you can get a new one ordered.

Xcal

Camper Fuel: It's Not Just for Breakfast Anymore

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01-18-2009 04:34 AM  9 years agoPost 8
flipped2left

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indianapolis,in.

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Let me check my weedwhacker stash and see if i can come up with something. ken

Smile! people will wonder what you're up to!!

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01-18-2009 11:03 AM  9 years agoPost 9
kaon

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Singapore

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no good.

I have given up.
After a lot of trial and error filing, it cranks a little but the pawl tends to pop out of the hole altogether.
The edge of the split peg is too worn down.

Waiting on bhhanson.com and davesmotors.com since I can't find the part locally.

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01-18-2009 11:51 AM  9 years agoPost 10
predatorman

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Falkland Islands

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I have an idea:~)

not sure on the rotation of the engine...but if it was me I would use a battery drill and a socket...to engage the nut...this would get the motor started?

This would keep you going till you get the part you need.

Or is there an optional top start...my Predator has this option...not sure about the Eagle though

Quality takes........time!

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01-18-2009 12:14 PM  9 years agoPost 11
kaon

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Singapore

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Yes, drill with a 13mm socket might work.
Rotation is clockwise when viewed from the end that the recoil starter attaches.
No top start.

I was just wondering what would happen when the engine starts up and is running faster than the drill. Would it be easy to remove the socket from the nut?

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01-18-2009 12:45 PM  9 years agoPost 12
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Broken starter
You could just fit a cone starter from a nitro heli if you have a nitro engine starter.This works as i used to have one on an old 23cc Kalt gasser i bought.No fear of it undoing the crank nut then.Just fit it where the pull start dog is now.Saves some weight too.Drawback is needing to take the starter and battery with you to the field.Can make the engine easier to start too.

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01-18-2009 12:53 PM  9 years agoPost 13
pgkevet

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Wales

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..would it be possible to remove the whole plate with your pawl and swap it out for the dog plate from a 231/260, albeit with some spacers, and then use a source-able pull start?

pgk

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01-18-2009 01:09 PM  9 years agoPost 14
kaon

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Singapore

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Removing the plate
The nut and plate appear to be welded together.
And it seems to be tight on the M8 thread.
In order to undo the nut, I would to stop the crank shaft somehow.
Does anyone know a good way?

The engine is shrouded all over, and I can't reach any moving parts, I may be able to jam something into the fan, but that might result in bent fan.

I could also remove the carb and jam something into the crank case to block the moving parts inside. Think this would be safe to do?

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01-18-2009 01:57 PM  9 years agoPost 15
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Oh no!!!any question but that one.
This is the one question that you will get a 100 different opinions on and has caused a lot of arguements over a really simple job.I will start it off by saying remove the plug put the piston at the bottom of its stroke and feed a small piece of rope in the bore.The idea is that the piston will come up against the rope and lock the engine so you can "carefully" remove the nut/dog assembly.This is just one way of many that will work.The idea is to lock the motor using an object that wont damage the internals and not use so much force that you damage the motor by brute force.

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01-18-2009 02:00 PM  9 years agoPost 16
kaon

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Singapore

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Haha
But, filling the cylinder with rope thru the sparkplug hole is a great idea! Did you invent it?

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01-18-2009 02:06 PM  9 years agoPost 17
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Kaon
No i did not Kaon ,as an engineer you come up against these problems all the time"Hands on"and time is money so you have to get over a lot of problems sometimes without special tools.This is just a trick that is handed down over the generations.I think most engineers would agree.

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01-18-2009 02:46 PM  9 years agoPost 18
predatorman

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Falkland Islands

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The drill start should work ok...the engine idle wont be that high anyway...just be careful of how you do it thats all.

Good idea about finding another base plate, one thats a common design.

Its a pain when something so silly, breaks!

Another idea is....with some gassers like Centurys Predator SE, the base plate assy can be removed after the engine is started...this is a good idea because all those vibrations in flight can only cause damage to the started pawl anyway. Its an idea I might just add to my Predator.

Quality takes........time!

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01-18-2009 03:32 PM  9 years agoPost 19
jcrack_corn

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End of Time

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i would spot weld a 13mm socket to that nut, then round off an extension (to make yor own ball socket)...then you can spin it up and remove it easily....you may need to balance the 13mm socket first, but i doubt it since it will be pretty much right on the center of the crankshaft....

------------------------------------------------------------------
do it inverted
------------

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01-18-2009 03:54 PM  9 years agoPost 20
kaon

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Singapore

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Got the dog plate+nut off
The rope method worked. It was tight.

Now can I assume that the commonest recoilreel + dog plate + pawl set will fit me?

Some height measurements:

The 4 holes that secure the recoil reel thru the mounting plate, and onto the bottom of the engine are in a 56mm square formation.

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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › broken pull start mechanism - What does yours look like? [pics]
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