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Blade CP+ › + + Pro Who's still flyin the Blade Cp or CP pro !
05-14-2011 11:49 AM  7 years agoPost 681
Mitchilito

rrVeteran

Morehead City, NC USA

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Of course the BeastX would probably be ideal but it's so heavy (relatively speaking). It would have to come out of the heavy alloy case - then who knows how well it would work. Besides, I just can't see spending $200 more bucks on this little money-pit

BTW - Neumotors evaluated my Neutron and found nothing wrong. I was afraid of that. I guess I'm just used to outrageous power from my 500 and 550.

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05-15-2011 02:53 PM  7 years agoPost 682
TerenceChan

rrNovice

Singapore

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Mitch,
The scorpion 3900kv for the trex 250 should match that power you are used to. I have been eyeing on that outrunner for a long time, waiting for it to be back in stock at any of the Hong Kong websites (as HK Courier cost is usually lower than other countries).

I will look forward to see your flybarless Bladzilla complete. These are the tiny JST connectors you need ->
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...idProduct=13423

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05-16-2011 12:39 AM  7 years agoPost 683
Mitchilito

rrVeteran

Morehead City, NC USA

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JST Nanos
Terence, the Horizon main boards all use JST Nano connectors. The ones HK sells are the full size JSTs. The nanos are about half the size and the polarity is entirely different.

Since I just bought a brand new MCPX I have a fully functioning spare main board to play with.

Hmmmmm. . . .

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05-19-2011 05:52 PM  7 years agoPost 684
TerenceChan

rrNovice

Singapore

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sorry, I thought they are the same, I used these on my walkera 4G6's AR6300 receiver and assumed they are the smallest connectors.

The Hyperion 4100kv motor arrived in my mail box today. It took 2 weeks from Allerc.com to reach here, that's pretty fast for First Class. I'm waiting for a 69usd Turnigy MEMS gyro from hobbycity which was ordered before the Hyperion, I can't believe the letter mail from Hong Kong takes longer than First Class Post from CA, should have paid 15bucks for EMS instead.

I took time to unsolder the Medusa wires carefully because I might use it on a small plane where a perfectly straight shaft wasn't as critical. Then I put on the Hyperion 12mm. It weighed 13g on the scale, 1.5g lighter than the Medusa. Then I took a blast outside. Wow, first impressions were good. The tail felt silky smooth when the heli lifted off. I tried to make those self-induced wags by letting the rudder stick sprang back to neutral and there was very little wag, almost like the brushed DD motor. Next, the full collective punch.. hmmm... not as impressive as the Medusa. The tail swung half a quarter but it returned really fast. This was where I could see what the Hyperion was lacking..

Back on the bench, I verified that the Hyperion's full thrust wasn't as powerful as the Medusa. It also didn't have that ratchet effect (clicking sound) of the Medusa when I turned the prop by hand.

Overall, I'm quite happy though. This motor is a lot better than the Feigao or Turnigy inrunner, both which run pretty warm and couldn't hold their kv during load. It is also more affordable at 28usd.
As for the tail jerk during full collective punch, I could live with that since I don't do any stick-banging stuff. My loops and flips turn out okay with this Hyperion gem.

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05-25-2011 01:04 PM  7 years agoPost 685
Mitchilito

rrVeteran

Morehead City, NC USA

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Happy
Terence,
It's good to see you having so much fun with your Blade.

The MCPX has rendered mine obsolete. I've actually decided to part mine out!

I have a Neutron motor, proton motor, lightened Futaba 401 and a stock metal head for sale for you Blade fanatics out there.

I'd sell it whole but the price would be rediculous

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06-02-2011 09:15 AM  7 years agoPost 686
TerenceChan

rrNovice

Singapore

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Mitch, how much for your Proton? A spare brushless tail motor would come in handy someday for me. Is it the 1.5mm shaft-type? Also note that Letter Post to Singapore would cost a a few dollars when sent from your location.

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06-14-2011 01:27 PM  7 years agoPost 687
TerenceChan

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Singapore

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Hey Mitch, I have been wanting to ask you about this but I kept forgetting. Did you test a regular servo working on the MCPX board?
I wish you didn't part your bladzilla..

Here are some recent pictures of my CP, now upgraded with the MicroHeli Metal Frame. Notice the under-slung gyro tray that I installed so that the tail boom could be removed without having to get the gyro out of the way, to loosen the 4 screws.

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06-23-2011 12:34 AM  7 years agoPost 688
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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Hey Terence, let me know your imppressions of the metal frame, they are a little pricey but maybe be worth it, I don't know.

I'm bringing my Blade cp pro back to life for this weekend. I put a Blade SR brushless main motor on the main and the tail with a 401 gyro and two 25 amp ESC's. We'll see how it goes, I'll get a video, good , bad or Crash

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06-23-2011 02:51 AM  7 years agoPost 689
BOB WHO?

rrKey Veteran

Downey, Ca.

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Recently I tested all three of my blades and concluded that the three factors that 'make or break' a blade are; 1)weight 2)servo quality 3)tail motor quality. I am assuming here that just about everyone is now using the gy401 and that the main is a brushless 4000-4400kv motor. I have found that similar main motors are not all that much different from each other. And I'm including the Neu Razor 350 here, which you can't get anymore, as one of those motors. So you have to keep the weight to a minimum for sure and next is to use good servos. My blade with MKS DS450s ($30 each or so) has twice the control as the other blade cps I have with Futaba S3114s or eflite stock servos. Finally the tail motor needs to able to hang on tight. The best ones are the Medusa (now unavailable), the 12mm Neu motor, the Hyperion is also pretty good, and maybe several others but not many others. The servo quality might just be the most important factor overall when all else is close to equal. I'm having fun with mine again

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06-23-2011 03:10 PM  7 years agoPost 690
TerenceChan

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Singapore

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Doug, the MH metal frame is a beautiful piece of engineering work. The superskids or the honeybee king undercarriage will not fit onto it so I suggest you get the version with the landing gear. Its design is slightly different to accommodate the 3mm thick legs, which are easily replaceable. You can get 1m-long 3mm carbon rods from some hardware shops at a few dollars each and cut them to make spares.

I don't really like the limited gyro mounting space that's behind the servos and furthermore,the gyro would cover the 4 screws that secures the boom, so I made my own under slung gyro mounting plate.

The other dislike is how much nearer the anti-rotation swash guide is, to the main shaft now. If you are using another CNC rotor head other than eflite, the lower plastic arms will hit the swash guide. I had to mount the swash guide further back to avoid this collision, which luckily isn't a difficult mod(I'm using the HDX 300 head which looks like a trex's)

You won't see a difference in flying performance but there's really no more flexing and you get a lot less vibration when the Heli spools up on the ground.

Many said the frame will hold up better in a crash than the stock frame, I haven't put it to the test and I don't intend to. It does look beefy at the point where the stock frame breaks often, which is good.

I got my cnc frame from rcboyz and their price is the lowest on the net and they ship fast. So, they are a reliable source besides helidirect.

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06-24-2011 12:28 AM  7 years agoPost 691
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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Great review Terence, Thanks. Glad you're still in the game BoB ! There are so few of us left I quit the Blade cp several times over the years but eventually come back--- just Love the size of it for the backyard I guess.

For me the biggest pain in the Ass was always a consistant tail with the lil beast. I really like the micro outrunner for the tail--- stays cool as a cucumber. I finally got a 401 gyro for the tail after using many others-----it works but no matter what I do it flashes constantly, it does hold but seems to be in some kind of rate mode not heading hold, confused, maybe a bad gyro not sure but flying it anyway.

I got a couple of Pulse Li-Pos 860mAH, 11.1 v 35C today for 10.99 each, seemed like a Great deal but we'll see how they do. Any who, I'm glad there are still a couple of guys still around willing to torture themselves

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06-24-2011 01:23 AM  7 years agoPost 692
Mitchilito

rrVeteran

Morehead City, NC USA

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It's great to see this old thread living on.

Bob, you said it just right. +1 to all you said especially with regard to WEIGHT. And MKS 450s sure help.

Terence, I havent' gotten around to experimenting with a spare MCPX board yet but I really think the way to go for ultimate Blade CP performance is going to be FBL. The MCPX has proven that - in spades.

Doug, pigs will fly before you give up your old CP, har har. Time for another video. . . .

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06-24-2011 11:48 AM  7 years agoPost 693
TerenceChan

rrNovice

Singapore

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@DougsRC
it works but no matter what I do it flashes constantly

I sacrificed the 401 from my 500-size to set things right for the bl tail and there's a great difference over the 240 gyro. Well, at least the tail became steady in hover.
But the tail jerked quite a fair bit with full collective input.

Finally, I followed buildem336's gyro settings -> set delay to full and limit to max for the dial pots on the gyro.

Okay, some slight improvement with the full collective tail jerk reduced...but there was still that intermittent tail drifting that occurred when the battery was at its fullest power and the last minute before the low voltage cutoff. But anyway, I got used to these traits and was flipping and looping the heli (just soft aerobatics) in its full-brushless configuration.

Then I changed the main frame to a CNC (MicroHeli) one because I got sick of spending 2 hrs to replace a broken frame every time. And then the VOODOO started...

The tail would start kicking the moment I flipped to 'idle up' mode and when after 2mins, it became silky smooth again. I suspected glitching so I re-soldered all the wire joints and added ferrite rings to all the wires going to the gyro and the tail ESC. Still no improvement. All the different gain and end point settings didn't help. It was the same for the Hyperion and the Medusa. I was depressed.

Today, I decided that I have had enough and I went on getting the heli back to the old setup I had-> the Futaba 240, the gws ics100e tail esc and the brushed dd motor (with the strong magnets).

I decided that the phoenix10 tail ESC would be used on my 4G6 as I have been wanting to convert it to 2S setup.

After restoring the old setup, I went out for a blast and Whoooaa, the tail was holding rock solid and the gain pot was at max. There was a bit of drift to the left with instant full collective stick, overall the tail hung really well now.

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06-24-2011 12:21 PM  7 years agoPost 694
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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Today, I decided that I have had enough and I went on getting the heli back to the old setup I had-> the Futaba 240, the gws ics100e tail esc and the brushed dd motor (with the strong magnets).
I had the same experience when I first started with blade cp, went from the geared tail motor to the direct drive gws brushed motor and ESC with a Telebee gyro. Then went to a Feiago brushless motor and there seemed to be a delay in the motor and the occasionall unwanted piro So went back to the brushed set-up---of course the downside was the little motor would burn out if pushed to hard or if they hit the ground. Got sick of buying tail motors, hopefully this time will be different.
Finally, I followed buildem336's gyro settings -> set delay to full and limit to max for the dial pots on the gyro.
I'll try that and see what happens, I still don't know why the gyro keeps flashing, I believe when the 401 is solid red its in HH and no light means rate mode. Maybe the gyro doesn't know where center is because it powers up before the tail ESC does, just a theory, like I said it still works so I'm not to worried about it.

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06-24-2011 07:10 PM  7 years agoPost 695
Mitchilito

rrVeteran

Morehead City, NC USA

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Flashing means the gyro is sensing input. If trims (including subtrim) are centered upon gyro initialization and set to heading hold mode, the LED will be steady.

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06-25-2011 09:38 AM  7 years agoPost 696
TerenceChan

rrNovice

Singapore

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new RJX blades
Mitch is right, I just tested on my 401. Whenever the rudder stick is moved, it flashes. But if there is no stick input, it shouldn't flash.
The 255mm carbon blades from Helidirect are good, the cyclic is faster and the heli feels more 'locked-in'. The blades are really slim, they remind me of the Trex250 ones.
Here's a couple more pics, just to show off the new blades.

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06-25-2011 05:31 PM  7 years agoPost 697
BOB WHO?

rrKey Veteran

Downey, Ca.

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Is that an Esky canopy Terence?

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06-26-2011 10:47 AM  7 years agoPost 698
TerenceChan

rrNovice

Singapore

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Yes, I have been using esky honey bee canopies because they are on clearance. The one in the photo is the honeybee FP's. Honeybee FP, CP and King all use similar-size canopies. The FP has a blue windshield and CP has a brown one. I like the King canopy the most because the canopy has real air vents for the motor's heat to dissipate better. The FP and CP have fake vents which are sticked-on decals. But for 6usd each, I am not complaining.

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06-26-2011 04:16 PM  7 years agoPost 699
BOB WHO?

rrKey Veteran

Downey, Ca.

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I used to fly a HB King and thought I recognized that canopy. I have used those canopies on my blade cps because there is more room for the upgrade stuff we put in them. I also used them because I gave my HB King to Dougie and forgot to give him some extra canopies I had (sorry Doug)

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06-27-2011 12:54 PM  7 years agoPost 700
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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No problem BoB !

So I got video of the first flight Sat. flew O.K but needs a lil more power on the main, flew 7 packs no crashes. Put a generic 450 sized motor on it, it was a little tail heavy so it helped balance it out a little. Come Sun. morning--- Crashed on my very first flight funnels to low and the tail caught the grass---stripped main gear,busted servo arm, spindle I don't mind crashing on my last flight but hate crashin on my first

Watch at YouTube

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