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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Tuning of O.S. MAX-61 SX WC heli engine.
03-08-2008 03:41 PM  10 years agoPost 1
viperviper

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Australia

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i have a O.S. MAX-61 SX WC heli engine for some time with HATORI Muffler HAT710. May i know what is the nos of turns on this engine in order to get a optimum power after breaking in? i just hovered today but realised that it too hot to barely touching it... can anyone advise?

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03-08-2008 05:27 PM  10 years agoPost 2
rotor- shark

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uk

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try two turns on the main,one turn on the mid.sounds like it's lean.also if the engine is badly worn it will run like this

all comments are my opinion only!

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03-09-2008 01:29 AM  10 years agoPost 3
viperviper

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Australia

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hope it's not the case of a badly worn engine... btw, how do i know if it's a badly worn engine without dismantling the engine apart.. There is no 'ringing' or any abnormal sound when the engine is idling. Any other ways to find out.

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03-09-2008 12:08 PM  10 years agoPost 4
MichaelP

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Northumberland UK

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Also make sure the idle/mixture control screw is set right as this affects the engine over the whole rev range, your engine is probably fine it just needs a bit tuning up.

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03-09-2008 01:36 PM  10 years agoPost 5
viperviper

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Australia

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i will reset it to the 2 turn on high end needle and 1 turn for mid needle and then test flight the next weekend. tks.

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03-09-2008 02:25 PM  10 years agoPost 6
rotor- shark

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uk

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you will soon know if the engine is worn out,it will be very easy to turn over with the starter,there will be very little compression left.

all comments are my opinion only!

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03-09-2008 07:41 PM  10 years agoPost 7
payne1967

rrElite Veteran

uk

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also remove the back plate and check for rust on your rear bearing

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03-09-2008 07:50 PM  10 years agoPost 8
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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the way I look at tuning the mid needle is that there are 3 things to look for,,

1), heat, you know what to do there,,

2) fuel consumption and throttle response, here if it's to rich you can burn up a lot of fuel just by hovering, and if it's too rich it will be slow to respond to the throttle while hovering,, lean it out,,

2) bobbing while in a hover,, here if your mid needle is to lean your heli will bob up and down, so you will have to work your throttle stick (more than you should) to keep a good hover, richen it up,,

so,,,
A) if it's hot and or it responds quickly to the throttle stick at a hover or if it bobs in a hover it's to lean,,

B) if it's slow to respond while hovering and or consuming a lot of fuel it's to rich..

I hope this helps some !!

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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03-10-2008 01:13 AM  10 years agoPost 9
MartyH

rrProfessor

USA

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The 2 turn on the high and 1 turn on the mid needle are the factory settings. I think you will find both settings are too rich but it's a safe and good place to start. The whole
manual for this engine which includes a great mixture adjusting flow chart is located on the OS website.

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03-15-2008 02:19 PM  10 years agoPost 10
viperviper

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Australia

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can anyone advise the steps to adjusting the main and the mid needle. which to adjust first?

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03-15-2008 04:18 PM  10 years agoPost 11
heliguy

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Boulder, CO

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Here is a post I made on adjusting the 60b some time ago. You may want to start with the mid needle at 1 turn as suggested above...

ADJUSTING THE OS60B CARB MID RANGE NEEDLE

First lets understand the function of the three needles.

Idle: This screw adjustment affects the mixture at a carb setting below 1/3 throttle.

Use this needle to set your engines idle so that when you pinch the fuel line you get about 3 to 5 seconds of operation before it starts to rev up. If it dies without reving up or revs up in less than 3 seconds then your idle is too lean and you need to open the needle slightly (counter-clockwise). If it runs longer than 5 seconds before reving up then your idle is too rich and you need to close the needle slightly (clockwise).

Due to the design of the idle needle mechanism, you should always rotate it an additional 1/4 turn and return it to the desired position when adjusting it. Example: If you wanted to close it 1/4 turn you would close it 1/2 turn and then return it a 1/4 turn. This is the only needle which requires this method.

Mid range needle: The mid range needle only adds fuel above 1/4 throttle up to about 3/4 throttle. It also is a tapering supply which means it start adding slowly, peaking the amount of fuel added at 1/2 throttle, and tapers off to 0 above 3/4 throttle. The mid range needle is only adjusted after the idle and high speed needle have been set.

High speed needle: The high speed needle is only used to adjust the full throttle mixture. Once set, the mixture between idle and full throttle is adjusted with the mid range needle.

The OS 60b carb has by design a slightly lean mid range. This allows the use of the mid range needle to fine tune your engines mid range performance. It is only a mid-range boost and does not directly affect the idle and the wide open throttle settings.

To start with the mid range needle should be closed.

Adjust you idle needle as described above.

Now you need to fly the heli at “full power” and adjust the top end needle/pitch to get maximum performance while still having a good smoke trail.

When you return to hover you will find that you engine is now slightly lean at mid-range. Without adjusting the high speed or idle needle, adjust you mid-range for proper hover performance.

I have found that on 30% fuel using a Hatori type muffler that the mid range will wind up between 3/4 and 1 1/2 turns open.

Signs of a lean mid range will be lack of performance at mid stick with little or no smoke. Overheating which will cause you engine to run at a high idle before returning to normal idle after hovering.

Signs of a rich mid range will be lack of response or performance at mid stick with an excessive amount of smoke.

For what it’s worth—Al
http://www.rchelibase.com

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04-04-2008 03:25 AM  10 years agoPost 12
restinfine

rrNovice

INDIANA

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Did you try to pull both needles out and run fuel through it

to make sure there is not a chunk of dirt or somthing messing

with the adjustment needles......

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10-18-2008 10:55 AM  9 years agoPost 13
viperviper

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Australia

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hi, it has been mths since i asked this query and this morning, i decided to tune my engine in the field... Here it's goes..when i was in the mist of tunning the engine during the hovering, the engine sudden quits and totally cut off and i had to do short auto rotation down...the throttle response during hovering at mid stick and the smoke trails was relatively smokey and i have since tuned it till the throttle response was just nice..not too rich, the temperature was ard 100 deg C. What could be the reason of this sudden quite of engine during hover? if i recall correctly, after a few up punches, it quits sudden.

But when i removed the glow plug, it's blacken.. Can anyone advise?

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10-22-2008 09:48 AM  9 years agoPost 14
niz

rrNovice

brunei

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os 61sxh wc crankase pressure system
hi, i hav been using os 61 sxh wc on my trex 600n with great powers... recently i decided to tapered a hole from the backplate to use the crankcase presssure out to one way check valve to the fuel tank... i keep getting overloaded fuel into the engine n cudnt get it right yet... can anyone help me with the setup n tuning pls????

hungry for power to kung fu 3d my heli..... aint the best yet..

nizem

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10-22-2008 11:46 AM  9 years agoPost 15
jsenicka

rrProfessor

Eagle River, WI

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you cannot really run crankcase pressure via a one-way without using a regulator. Crankcase pressure and a one way can give you 7+ PSI of constant pressure. You need a demand regulator like a Cline or the YS unit

Jim Senicka
Team Manager, GrandRC Flight Team

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10-23-2008 11:19 AM  9 years agoPost 16
viperviper

rrApprentice

Australia

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Can anyone help to answer my queries? thanks

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10-25-2008 06:59 PM  9 years agoPost 17
rotor- shark

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uk

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if it cut when you gave it a few punches of pitch,then it's very likely that the top end needle is lean,or the fuel line is blocked,or fuel filter is blocked.it could also be too rich,but you can tell the difference,if it was too rich,the exhaust smoke will be dense,and the engine will splatter when punched prior to cutting.

the other possibility is an air leak around the carb,or a pressure leak from the exhaust to the tank.the most likely problem is the lean needle problem,or the pressure feed line from the exhaust.

all comments are my opinion only!

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10-26-2008 07:00 AM  9 years agoPost 18
viperviper

rrApprentice

Australia

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Thanks for the reply. These are very informative advices.

Eventually i hv discovered that the glow plug is faulty, lots of carbon built up and it's was blacken when i took the plug out for inspection. Hence after changing the glow, the heli was able to spool up normally.

But one problem i faced was the frequent loosening of the muffler at the engine exhaust, and eventhough i hv tighten using 2 nuts to each bolt. But after a 2 to 3 flights, again the muffler became loose and hv to be re-tightened again. Any good solution to this problem? pls advise. thanks again!

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10-29-2008 02:32 AM  9 years agoPost 19
rotor- shark

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uk

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you need to put thread lock onto the bolts before you tighten them,make sure you degrease them before you put the threadlock on though

all comments are my opinion only!

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10-29-2008 07:52 AM  9 years agoPost 20
EagleMan!

rrApprentice

Sydney, Australia

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ViperViper,

If your engine is being broken-in correctly, then you should be getting an optimum power and setting as follows:

Main needle: 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 open (most likely will be 1-1/4 open)
Hover needle: 1 to 1-1/4 open (most likely will be in between)
Idle screw: 1 to 1-1/4 open

I have found that most of my old OS-61SXH WC generation engine has been on this range with Coolpower 15%; 20% and 30% with Hatori 666 and other Hatori shortpipes...

Maybe this will help.

Cheers,

Eagleleman

"If it doesn't work...TRY HARDER!!"

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