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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Nightmare!!!
03-05-2008 08:20 AM  10 years agoPost 21
Heliguychris

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Perth, West Australia

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My guess would be your esc settings. On the mystery motor/speedie combo, you would need an extremely short pinion to make a 4200 rpv motor work properly,,,cool, powerful etc.....and the headspeed would be extremely high, for the motor to spin at the revs per volts, that motor is wound for... i not sure about changing speedie settings on that one.

With the trex motor/speedie combo,,, these are know performers, so i would guess that the speedie settings are a bit off. The 12c battery should quite adequately hover the model, for at least a few mins.
With the settup page that comes with the speedie, have ya had a chance to set the timing to medium? Also change the battery cut off voltage to low. Confirm those settings, by the audible beeps, as the speedie is connected to the battery. With my 9zap radio, the stick position is opposite to what the page says, but by listening to the pattern of beeps on startup, youll know they are the settings you want.

Hope this helps
CHRIS.

PS... a 2000mah battery at its full 12c, is only 24 amps. The speedies you have are about 35 amps. The batteries arnt gonna give ya more than a few mins ....15c will be a little better, but i would say to really enjoy your model, maybe try a 20c. The higher the c the dearer they get, but are usally cheaper in the long run..... TACOS ASIDE!!! LOL

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03-05-2008 08:37 AM  10 years agoPost 22
Heliguychris

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Perth, West Australia

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Oh yeah, forgot to ask,,, what size pinions are ya running?

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03-05-2008 09:16 AM  10 years agoPost 23
Aussie74z

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Australia

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the Walkera is no longer running as i crashed it earlier. i am running the standard 12T pinion supplied with the T-Rex. however the exact same 'glitch' is evident in both helis.

I put a fully charged battery in earlier and the chopper flew well for a couple of minutes then it sounded like the rotors were slowing a bit then the glitching started...

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03-05-2008 10:29 AM  10 years agoPost 24
MattC

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Tamworth, UK

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Not true

Your still getting them, but with PCM, your not seeing them. With PCM, unless the glitch lasts long enough to go into fail safe, you wont see it. Thats why I always use a PPM receiver first until I'm sure I can fly without any glitching then I switch to a PCM receiver for the fail safe features.
Optech, i was very aware of this and didn't want to switch to a pcm receiver for that reason but i tried the pcm reciever off my raptor and it was much better. However the initial glitching problem was pretty severe i could fly for about 4/5 mins and i would get a glitch where the headspeed would drop and pickup again (none of the servos glitched) and the same would happening again every 30 seconds after.

After grounding the heli at one potential, still using a ppm receiver - i would get one minor glitch where the head speed would drop slightly once per two, ten minute flights (2 batteries worth)

The other problem i had which may have been related are

1) the align 35a speed controller doesn't like running below 80% in govener mode, the headspeed wanders - set your throttle curve to 100, 85, 85, 85, 100 with a minimum of 85 in the centre points.

2) The locating pin for the tail boom on the frame end snags the tail belt and will cause it to snap, you need to grind this down slightly.

Cheers

Matt

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03-05-2008 10:52 AM  10 years agoPost 25
fergus

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Ireland

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If its ok for a few minutes with a fully charged pack then starts up again then I would really wonder about the packs. Have they many cycles? Have they always been balance/charged?

Regards

Fergus

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03-05-2008 11:38 AM  10 years agoPost 26
Droid

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Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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Again.....batteries........

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03-05-2008 05:26 PM  10 years agoPost 27
RAK402

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Alhambra, CA

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Again,

Mine did EXACTLY the same thing you are describing.

It was not ESC, Battery, etc. related.

It was the screws that hold the struts to the frame working themselves slightly loose. This caused a glitch (probably static discharge) that resulted in the throttle shutting down.

This with an Align motor, JR 790 receiver, and Align ESC, which had been used successfully in a Sky Shark with no problems.

Tightening the screws cured the problem.

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03-05-2008 06:03 PM  10 years agoPost 28
T-Rex-Flyer

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Panama City, Fl

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You need some better battery's, 12C is just not enough go with something in the 20 to 25C range. You also need to run you're motor at the upper end of it's range where it's most efficient. I must have messed it, what ESC are you running?

If the wings are traveling faster than the fuselage, it's probably a helicopter.

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03-05-2008 11:46 PM  10 years agoPost 29
Aussie74z

rrNovice

Australia

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RAK402 all screws are tight. i built it over Sunday/Monday just gone. i rechecked it all but all screws are tight.

TRex flier, i think you are right. However, the heli seems to fly glitch free when i hooked up the Walkera Rx and Tx (i never used this stuff before. I bought the JR Radio gear straight away) to the TRex.

After a while, the motor did cut out with the walkera gear but it was a very soft cut, almost unnoticeable. the JR gear starts cutting out almost instantly and very noticeably.

Confused...

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03-05-2008 11:52 PM  10 years agoPost 30
Droid

rrElite Veteran

Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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Sounds like the BEC is cutting in, probably you are pulling more current with the JR servos. Bottom line, get a decent motor and ESC and decent batteries, otherwise you just as well light dollar bills and throw them in the air. Micro helis are not micro money, i gave them up after too much grief and the costs run into 50 size models if you do it right.......

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03-06-2008 12:09 AM  10 years agoPost 31
Aussie74z

rrNovice

Australia

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Droid, the align ESC and Motor seem to be quite good and many people fly successfully with them. when i switched the radio gear i did not switch the servos as well, i only switch the Rx and Tx...

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03-06-2008 12:13 AM  10 years agoPost 32
Droid

rrElite Veteran

Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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Ok, well you have to try a decent battery then, seems like its all it can be...... I had 12C packs in a very early zoom400 and they were useless, no good for anything more than a gentle hover and a cautious figure 8.

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03-06-2008 12:51 AM  10 years agoPost 33
Yug

rrMaster

UK. Herts

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Measure the resistance at various places between metal/carbon parts. Also try to stress/bend the frames when you are measuring. Carbon is just as good a conductor as aluminium for rf. Bear in mind that the anodised surface is an insulator but a screw through a carbon frame and frame separator/aluminium bearing block can make a noisy electrical connection, especially in the presence of vibes. When subject to vibes, this can generate a large amount of rf interference.
Also try antistatic spray on the belt to help prevent it from being a Van-de-graff generator.
A ground connection from the battery to the frames may also help.
It is not impossible that rf noise genarated from the poor metal/carbon contacts could upset the BEC (&rx) electronics.

Vegetable rights and Peace

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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Nightmare!!!
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