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HomeAircraftHelicopterFuel-Helicopters New or Limited ActivityRJX › My X50 build and comparison
03-06-2008 05:53 PM  10 years agoPost 101


Louisville, KY

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That pic of the Vibe 90 has two ball bearings, plus a thrust bearing in between them. Now the Raptor's & 90 has the same set up as the RJX, just two ball bearings. I like the lightness of the stock tail and the simplicity. But I purchased the upgrade metal blade holders because of the thrust weights 6 grams more. I'm going to fly both tail rotor assy's and compare them. The X50 is a beautiful heli with awesome flight performance, I'm sure it will improve as it matures.


PS. I would like RJX to build a stronger head block and seesaw for the X50. It's a little on the light side in my opinion for this 3D monster, not as crash worthy IMO. Take a look at the Kasama head...really super nice, with better attachment to the main shaft, and stronger all the way around.

The aluminum is lighter in this X50, it seems to be a lighter grade in hardness compared to X-cell, Hirobo, Avant, Kasama. It's good for some parts where brute strength is not needed. Maybe just making the head block and seesaw larger would work also. The machining is very good, everything fits great! Somebody on the forum did buy a complete head assy. from kasama for his X50 ($260.00!)...he crashed and destroyed the stock head. He just mentioned that it was pretty weak in a crash. I hope I don't find out!


This head is outstanding design and quality.

DX8, Ballistic FSO, Gaui X5, Warp 360, Vbar

03-07-2008 12:32 AM  10 years agoPost 102

rrElite Veteran

Port Charlotte, FL. USA

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Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't stop at the page just before that showing the hub and bearing assembly, I certainly didn't want to give any wrong information, I have observed the same (2) 4x10x4 radial only bearings in the two piece plastic grips and they have worked out very well for years, I was just saying that this design isn't something new.

Clyde Fox
Port Charlotte FL
Team Outrage

03-07-2008 04:55 AM  10 years agoPost 103


Northen Cali

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I recieved a few pm's about my post. Some agreeing with me, another ripped me a new one cuzz he thought i was flaming RJX.

As a potential I not allowed to to post my thoughts/feelings about this, or any other heli?

I know a bit about helis, one would have to as long as Ive been in the hobby.

Radial bearings are not designed for this type of load. Is why the thrust bearing was designed. Circa 1980'ish Hirobo shuttles even utilized one thrust bearing in the tail grips.

Wouldnt it have been better to incorporate thrust bb's in the tail, instead of making excuses, hey look they did it this must be ok

What I'm really trying to say here is,
ya'll have a relatively new heli on the market. This being said, it looks like it only has 2 design flaws. The too soft material seesaw, and a tail w/o thrust bearings.

In my book, that puts you way ahead of just about every other heli manufacturer today. Most have alot more issues to deal with then that.

Bottom line, you've come this close to making the (perfect 50 size heli).

Revamp the stock tail grips for thrust bearings, charge $710 for the kit. Make the seesaw out of steel, or better grade aluminum.

Wolla! You then have a heli that needs NO UPGRADES!!

Flame away if you feel the need to


03-07-2008 10:14 AM  10 years agoPost 104



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Well I am dying to buy one and its not for hard 3d (i wouldnt know how ) but its just cause it looks so freckin good
A Raptor just looks plain , boring and OLD sitting next to this :O)

03-07-2008 10:18 AM  10 years agoPost 105
Tom Viper



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Good post Heliflyer69, and I guess you´re right.

But, the tail dosen´t need trustbearings, I agree that a tail WITH them are better. This tail is only "good enough". This tail needs some attention during build, as its easy to bolt the bearings to tight, making them notchy. Tighten the bolt, then back it off some and let the bearings have a tiny,tiny play. This will make the tail run much smoother. And yes, I have the new trust tail on the way ;-)

Seesaw, I lost both screws on my first xtreme (g10/2007 version). My misstake as during build,this parts where allready assembled, and I though (stupid me) that it was built the right way. Guess wasn´t. Ok, managed to land the heli with the flybar hanging in the links(!) Cleaned and replaced the screws with a tad longer (the only ones I had with me at the field). Red locktite. Have not had any issues with it since.

On my second carbon xtreme, I went though this part very carefully.
I also took my time setting the gear mesh up right, and the new heli is so smooth.

Things to look out for on this heli:

* Make sure to set the gear mesh right.

* Make sure the tail drive shaft is 90 degree

* Make sure the engine alignment is straight and runs true.

* Do not use a washere under the fan (if not running OS Hyper).

* Use red locktite (strong) on the seesaw bolts.

* Use Aceton to clean all screws prior to assembly.

* Use a small portion of epoxy on the pinion/BB assembly

* Use 24h epoxi on all tail rods or they WILL come loose! 15 minute epoxi will not get in to the pores of the carbon well enough.

* Use 24h epoxi on tailsupports or they WILL come loose! 15 minute epoxi will not get in to the pores of the carbon well enough.

* Check the tail pitch slider, so it runs smooth on the tailshaft.

* Check the tail pully, so it runs true and do not rub against the tail gearbox bearings.

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03-07-2008 10:58 AM  10 years agoPost 106


adelaide, australia

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Why not use a washer on anything besides the OS hyper? I have the TTredline on at the moment with the washer installed before the brass collet. Whats wrong with that?

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03-17-2008 06:33 PM  10 years agoPost 107


Dover NH

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I've now got about 2 gallons through the X50 and I'm very happy with it. The seesaw hasn't come loose since I put a bunch of red locktite on it, and a little JBweld to hold the pinion in the bearing block, and the heli has performed very well. I'm always checking for loose parts/worn parts, and haven't found any. Just a great flying reliable heli, it's one I've got the confidence in to bring out to the field and fly at any time, give it a wipe down at the end of the day and go home happy to wait for the next day. It's definitely a good replacement for my Evo, which previously occupied that spot.

The only thing I need to do is mess with the head some, I'd like to get it a bit more stable and I'm willing to sacrifice some cyclic speed for it. In all, I've put enough time on the airframe to declare it a real winner.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

05-19-2008 10:09 AM  10 years agoPost 108


Australia, New South Wales, Mid North Coast

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I have just ordered my X50 here in Australia instead of the Vibe50 I was going to get originally.

Here the price for the X50 G10 is now matched to the stock 600N.
I straight away ordered the tail Grip upgrade.

I was made aware of the Seesaw issue by the Supplier himself and informed that a new Head design is coming.
Despite this, I ordered the original.

Now, having said that, I still expect this to be fixed with a new Seesaw which has to fit the old Headblock, as you can not expect the previous Customers to purchase a whole new Head.

I have owned and/or own:
MA X-Cell 30, MA X-Cell 60 1003 kit, MA Fury Expert, MA Stratus, Align450S, Raptor50SE, Raptor30V1.

In all of these, all Seesaws were assembled with blue 242/243 Loctite.
None have ever, ever come loose and didn't need watching.

The Seesaw is a design issue, which needs fixing at design level.

The red loctite method is a stop gap solution until it is fixed at design level.

Even on the Fans have I ever used 242/243 only.
If I need to use anything stronger, then we have a design problem.

I am looking forward for this heli to arrive

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