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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › TT MD530 Build Advice
02-10-2008 03:53 AM  10 years agoPost 1
andymaan

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Chino Hills

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I just picked up the MD530 civilian, and wanted to ask the experienced builders what problems I will run into. I will be running a Raptor 50SE V2 with the Titan Boom/Belt. I have read about the issues with the landing gear slipping inside the metal tubes. Anything else to watch out for? Any updates I should do to make the fuselage last? how about running the exhaust out the back.

Thanks in advance,
Andy

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02-10-2008 04:31 AM  10 years agoPost 2
stanc

rrKey Veteran

Conroe, TX

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I've never heard of any slipping inside the metal struts, there are bolted in. You will have some trouble getting them in if you don't sand both ends down. The biggest problem is cutting the holes in the fuse large enough to fit the rear struts through. Don't cut them out to big or the grommets won't cover the holes, start with about 1/4" larger and then see if you can get the rear struts in, if not cut a little more. Take a drimmel sanding disk and sand down the ends of the cross pieces and the ends that the skid tubes go through, until they fit inside the metal struts. If you force these ends into the struts and are not careful they will break. The new civilian scheme fuse has the holes for the windshield and the side windows pre-marked, so hold the windshield in place and drill the first hole, say one at the top, put a screw in and then start drilling the rest, putting a screw in each as you drill them.
The hardest part about this build is when you install the mechanics, the two screws that hold the rear of the mechanics are a beast to get in. On my second MD530, I used two either 25mm or 30mm bolts and screwed them in the adapters that come with the fuse and used JB Weld to secure them and to keep them from turning later. I drilled out the two holes in the bottom of the fuse so my nut driver would fit through, so when you put the mechanics in, those two bolts go through the cross piece and then use a lock nut in a nut driver and thread them on.
Good luck with your build.

Stan

Stan
2- Logo 500
Ion X2
eAvro90

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02-10-2008 05:14 AM  10 years agoPost 3
andymaan

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Chino Hills

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Thanks Stan,
This is exactly what I was looking for. I plan on mounting the mechs next week. I need to make sure the mechs fly well 1st.

thanks again,
Andy

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02-10-2008 12:22 PM  10 years agoPost 4
stanc

rrKey Veteran

Conroe, TX

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Unfortunately you have to do the other first before you can put the mechanics in.

Stan

Stan
2- Logo 500
Ion X2
eAvro90

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02-10-2008 12:41 PM  10 years agoPost 5
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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I need to make sure the mechs fly well 1st.
Good idea, trust me on this!

When you are building the struts assemble the landing gear completely on the bench and pre-thread all the holes for the bolts that hold the struts to the frame pieces, it will save a lot of cussing and throwing things later.

I used a dab of hot glue to hold the phillips self tapping screws to the screw driver so I could get it up in there and get it started on the 4 screws that hold the gear to the frames.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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02-10-2008 02:46 PM  10 years agoPost 6
Rodan

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Prescott Valley, AZ

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Another thing that will help with the screws that hold the mechs to the gear is chamfering the hole in the bottom of the frame where they screw in. This will help them get started if things aren't lined up just so. The back ones are a bugger, and the worst part of R&Ring the mechs. The really annoying part is that the plastic will strip out eventually, as TT expects a machine screw threaded into plastic to be a permanent solution...

Stan, I'm very interested in your idea of using a stud in the frame with a nut on the bottom. That's a great idea! You don't have any problems with clearance when sliding the mechs in with the bolts long enough to stick through the braces?

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02-10-2008 03:51 PM  10 years agoPost 7
victorb

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Newark, DE, USA

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Getting ready to purchase the same TT 500E, myself, wondering if you could use "Blind Nuts"??

This is one of the best features of this web site, the amount of info almost instantly available from the members.

I Have a Love Hate relationship with this hobby, Love to Build, but Hate to Crash..

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02-11-2008 02:25 AM  10 years agoPost 8
stanc

rrKey Veteran

Conroe, TX

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Rodan
You don't have any problems with clearance when sliding the mechs in with the bolts long enough to stick through the braces?
It is tight for sure, but not as frustrating as trying to get the screws in and everything lined up.

Stan
2- Logo 500
Ion X2
eAvro90

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02-11-2008 07:13 AM  10 years agoPost 9
andymaan

rrNovice

Chino Hills

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Is it a bad idea to use all the windows, I have heard about cooling issues? I like the look of blacked out windows. I need to paint the windows from the inside, but not sure about the process. I will clean the windows with soapy warm water, dry, then airbrush with black. What else should I look out for?

Thanks for the info,

Andy

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02-11-2008 11:23 AM  10 years agoPost 10
stanc

rrKey Veteran

Conroe, TX

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You might leave out the two back windows for cooling, I think most guys do. Plus you always have to get your hands inside for something. You can tint the windows.

Stan

Stan
2- Logo 500
Ion X2
eAvro90

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02-11-2008 03:53 PM  10 years agoPost 11
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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I have all 4 out but thinking of putting the front ones in. I blacked out the windshield, it looks alot better.

If you really wanted to you could paint some fine mesh black and put it on the muffler side but you need access to the right side to light the glow plug, fuel line clip, and power switch. I suppose you could do something magnetic if it really bugged you but I wanted to keep it simple with this one.

Also mesh on the bottom painted OD will make that cheater hole disappear while its in the air.(got that from Peter Wales book on building/finishing scale helis)

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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