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Raptor E325 › when giving Right rudder tail pulses
02-08-2008 10:47 PM  10 years agoPost 1
johanr

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sweden

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Hi!

I get a strange problem when hovering(haven't tried flying yet)
When giving normal (no fast piro) Right rudder the tail will move but while doing it the tail pulses while going to the Right. To the Left it is a smooth motion though.

Gyro is Gy401
Running standard esc and flightpower 2170 25c lipo's
approx. 2400rpm headspeed
Gearmesh should be fine and belt is not to tight but not to loose so it grabs itself.

What have I done wrong?

-Johan

Corrected from left to right(was thinking of the tail all the time)
edited subject to be more precise(and not look like a gyro hunting Q)

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02-09-2008 12:49 AM  10 years agoPost 2
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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Tail servo could be binding, check the travel on the gyro, are you running HH mode? It could have gain too high. Head speed sounds a little low what thr curve you running?

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02-09-2008 09:31 AM  10 years agoPost 3
johanr

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sweden

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Have to correct me above. It's when giving Right rudder I get it to pulse. Struck me last night that I do not know if the servo is pulsing or if it is something else.

It doesn't matter whether in Normal mode or AVCS(HH)

As far as I have felt it shouldn't be binding but will triplecheck this.

I'm in governor mode at around 72% in normal mode. Reason for the low rpm is due to the instructions that came with the ms composit blades. Which tells me that max rpm is 2500
Have sent an email to ms comp. regarding if that is really the case(since wooden blades seem to handle alot more)

Gyro to sensitive, yes it may be but I thought it would hunt when doing nothing then?

Feels like it has something to do with the esc, but can't really hear that the engine is working harder when giving right rudder.

-johan

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02-09-2008 12:44 PM  10 years agoPost 4
johanr

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sweden

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This is absolutely wonderful. I checked the binding issue by spinning the rotor backwards in the same time moving the servohorn in both directions slowly, and I could feel that in one position it sort of grabbed or felt like very small resistance and then it proceeded without problems when passing that specific point.

Tried many times going back and forth over that area while putting grease on the tail rotor shaft and suddenly it became so much better/smoother.(didn't think it would help though)

Tried the heli without paddles and it rotated without pulsing.
Mounted the mainblades and gave it a go again being sure that now the problem would come back, but No.
It is now behaving the way it should.
Big Thanks helicraze!

Now I just have to figure out why I get the small rebound of the tail when doing a fast pirouette and stopping even When the sensitivity is low and Delay set to max
Anyway that's another issue and I will search this site for answers(and read the raptortechnique page)

Br
Johan

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02-09-2008 05:37 PM  10 years agoPost 5
fenderstrat

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Aston,Pa

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what tail servo are you using???

Compass helis Support Team
PerformancePlusRC field rep
Mini Titan/SE
TEAM KBDD

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02-09-2008 09:56 PM  10 years agoPost 6
johanr

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sweden

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servo is hs56.
I read in the raptortechnique page for my radio 3810 that in my case when using gear as hh on off switch that changing sensitivity is done via traveladjust menu.that explains why i haven't noticed any difference in sensitivity when changing in the gyro sens. menu... May also explain the piro problem I guess.(?)
-johan

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02-09-2008 11:43 PM  10 years agoPost 7
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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When having a bounce it may not be sensitive enough. If using the gear channel you will have to refer to the gyro manual for info on setting sensitivity.

Also regarding the rotors, they always say that but i'm sure a few hundred RPM will be ok. Try 75%, anything less seems to not make the tail work as well as it should.

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02-09-2008 11:43 PM  10 years agoPost 8
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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75% thr that is.

Or without gov mode I use 0/70/80/90/100

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02-10-2008 09:26 AM  10 years agoPost 9
johanr

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sweden

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aha, Ok Thanks!
Read somewhere that below 75-80% the esc is not feeling/working to well so my aim is actually anyway to have that. Tried 77% before and think I got something like 2800rpm standing on the ground that is(just before liftoff) sounds much.
My first heli (hirobo shuttle zxx something) more or less exploded when I crashed in front of me and a big piece of the tail rotor passed my ear/head will a millimeter(actually felt it touching)
NOT a nice moment. . .

So I have that fear to overcome as well since bladespeed is pretty high But as you say, a few hundred rpm would probarbly not make a difference in case I get hit with flying components anyway

Well yea, I am still wondering whether I will go for governor or not. But it feels much safer to know that someone will keep track of the rpm while flying(or making aerobatic thingys)

How about the standard ball-links at that rpm?
Have seen that some changes them to Align =/ but never understood why.

-johan

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02-10-2008 09:51 AM  10 years agoPost 10
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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People change them to align links as they snap on and off better.

I had my SE crash suspected link came off and caused $200US damage to the heli, almost everything was ruined.

I did try gov mode and didn't like it, I like using a curve.

Idle mode i use 100/inh/80/inh/100. It is set from the factory for gov mode off.
The manaul has 85 for the middle figure but I think the RPM is too much so I dropped it to 80.

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02-10-2008 08:35 PM  10 years agoPost 11
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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Sorry manual says middle figure 80, I dropped it to 75 otherwise the head over speeds easily.

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02-10-2008 10:29 PM  10 years agoPost 12
johanr

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sweden

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Ok. So for 3D I guess it's recommended to go for the Align links and balls?
Wouldnt want the heli to dig dirt just because of mechanical failure feels better to plant it yourselve then

ah, Great! Thanks!
Yea, maybe I'll do the same with my governor(not use it I mean)

-johan

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02-10-2008 10:33 PM  10 years agoPost 13
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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Well its personal choice, most people use the normal TT links and ball ends. I think it is important to make sure your links are not too loose both on the ball and when screwed on the thread. Also make sure there are screwed in evenly on each side of the rod.

I'm still using the TT links and ball ends

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02-10-2008 11:48 PM  10 years agoPost 14
johanr

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sweden

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ok thats good news. I'll keep mine for a while then
-johan

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