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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › engine diagnosis after 7 months storage
02-08-2008 03:07 AM  10 years agoPost 1
Rennster

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Hawaii

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Heli has been sitting on the wall for 7 months. Before that I put Marvel mystery oil in to the engine and rotated it a few times. I tried to turn the egine by hand and it felt a bit sluggish; not as smooth as I thought it would be. I removed the backplate and head. I saw some red stuff covering some parts; not sure if it was rust, but I doused it with oil rotated it a few times and sprayed solvent in it, turned it and sprayed it with oil. Feels better now but not really sure. I can feel compression but some spots are brown. SHould I just start it up? THe engine is a regular non-Hyper OS 50.
Thanks.

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02-08-2008 03:11 AM  10 years agoPost 2
george0079

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USA

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Remove the liner, piston, and ring. Clean them and oil them. Put it back together and fire it up....

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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02-08-2008 03:20 AM  10 years agoPost 3
Rennster

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Hawaii

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How do I remove all that? I see a roll pin at the top where I removed the heatsink and was wondeirng how do I get it out?
Thanks

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02-08-2008 03:46 AM  10 years agoPost 4
WiscHeli

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Wisconsin USA

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disassemble soak in gas and use a soft tooth brush to clean ,, dry well and reassemble useing afterrun oil

T-Rex450seV2,, 600N-Pro ..500CF... Jr 9303 Syn 72Mhz

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02-08-2008 03:55 AM  10 years agoPost 5
george0079

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USA

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How do I remove all that? I see a roll pin at the top where I removed the heatsink and was wondeirng how do I get it out?
Leave the roll pin alone. You must first remove the liner. You'll probably have to heat the engine up to get the aluminum case to expand. I usually put mine in an oven for about 10 min. and then, with the piston at the bottom of the stroke, put a popcycle stick in the exhaust port, and turn the crank. This will force the liner to slide up. Once the liner is out, then the con-rod will slip off of the crank, and the piston/ring/con-rod will come out.

Just remember to wear gloves or something, because the engine will be hot when it comes out of the oven.

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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02-08-2008 03:59 AM  10 years agoPost 6
george0079

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USA

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BTW.... The roll pin is for alignment purposes. Just remember to pay attention when taking it apart. It will only go back together the same way...

There's plenty of threads on here about engine assembly and dis-assembly.... So don't be afraid of not being able to get it back together....

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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02-08-2008 05:25 AM  10 years agoPost 7
Rennster

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Hawaii

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thanks

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02-08-2008 06:25 AM  10 years agoPost 8
Blik

rrApprentice

Ontario North

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Also remove the carb and gasket if you are going to heat it up. Like George said "pay attention when taking it apart". When assembling coat the parts with afterun oil or I have also used ATF. Before installing the liner over the piston ring it must be aligned with the small pin in the groove or you will break the ring.

Cheers
Blik

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02-08-2008 06:56 AM  10 years agoPost 9
Rennster

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Hawaii

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So I will need to have a crankshaft holding tool right? The clutch and fan are still on the engine.

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02-08-2008 06:47 PM  10 years agoPost 10
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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Take the backplate off and see if it is rusted, if not you are probably good to go. Rusted you will need to take apart the engine and replace the bearings at a minimum.

Chris

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02-09-2008 07:24 AM  10 years agoPost 11
Blik

rrApprentice

Ontario North

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Yes you will require the Delrin/Plastic crank holding tool. Do not buy the piston holding tool that screws into the glow plug hole, because it can damage the piston if you are not too careful.

Cheers
Blik

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02-16-2008 12:34 AM  10 years agoPost 12
robhurlin

rrKey Veteran

Pretoria, South Africa

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My OS50 sat on the shelf for a year after a crash. I had put after run oil in after running it dry on that occasion. After repairing the heli it started first time and ran perfectly.

I'm with airdodger - if there is no specific rust then fly it. You might do more harm than good trying to take it all apart. BTW, please tell us what you did and how it worked.

Rob.

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02-21-2008 10:02 AM  10 years agoPost 13
Rennster

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Hawaii

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sprayed the engine with gun oil then electric motor cleaner then more gun oil and dried as much as possible. replaced the glow plug. took awhile to start but it runs OK now. I cna hear something like hiccups but I am not sure what it is. I ran it rich (two turns out ) iniitally and now I am about 1 3/4 out. Runs like it did before. I plan to replace it the next time I come home or sell it for a TREX 500

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02-21-2008 03:51 PM  10 years agoPost 14
devin120

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Canada

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to add to this
Just to add to this conversation, what are the best steps you guys find to avoid any problems. Do you religiously apply after run oil in your motors. My YS91 is just a bit dry, but with a squirt of fuel its good. I'm just wondering if after run is key or any other methods.

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02-21-2008 06:54 PM  10 years agoPost 15
robhurlin

rrKey Veteran

Pretoria, South Africa

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What works for me (and I have never had any rust) is run the engine dry with throttle at idle(fuel disconnected and crank with glo driver on until the engine stops firing). Then put a few drops of after-run oil in the fuel tube at the carb and crank a few times to draw the oil into the engine.

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02-21-2008 08:53 PM  10 years agoPost 16
Busher

rrKey Veteran

Manchester, England

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What works for me (and I have never had any rust) is run the engine dry with throttle at idle(fuel disconnected and crank with glo driver on until the engine stops firing). Then put a few drops of after-run oil in the fuel tube at the carb and crank a few times to draw the oil into the engine.
Thats got my vote and it has worked for me up to now

Good luck
Busher

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