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02-08-2008 02:39 AM  10 years agoPost 1
tommytt1

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Mercerville, NJ, USA

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I've searched on RR for break in procedures and haven't come up with too much. Does anyone have any other than usual ways of breaking in an engine ( fuel/nitro%,adding additional oils, time, rpms temps, etc.) Thanks Tom

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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02-08-2008 02:42 AM  10 years agoPost 2
george0079

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USA

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Each manufacturer has it's own procedures. They are in the manuals...

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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02-08-2008 07:09 AM  10 years agoPost 3
Jay1

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Colorado Springs

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It all depends on who you talk too. Some are old school where they say you need to run about 10 tanks or a few gal through the engine while others say you just need about 2 tanks and then you can start to lean out. I think that you only need a few tanks with the temps at its optimal operating then you are ready to tune in for optimal performance. This is the conclusion I have come up with after talking to others that are more experienced in running nitro engines than I am.

Jay
Sooner or later, Gravity will win!

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02-08-2008 02:55 PM  10 years agoPost 4
tommytt1

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Mercerville, NJ, USA

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Breakin
They really put that in the manual? I wish I had known that! I am not looking for the normal procedure, a personal, out of the ordinary way that works for you.

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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02-08-2008 03:13 PM  10 years agoPost 5
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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Break it in on whatever fuel you plan on running in it.

What engine?

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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02-08-2008 03:36 PM  10 years agoPost 6
Dr Lodge

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Guildford, Surrey - UK

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Just run it on the rich side for a few tanks taking not NOT to make the engine hot, it should be pretty cool until a few tanks have been burnt. And don't do power hungry moves, keep throttle under 3/4. Once a few tanks have been burnt, you can start to lean the needles gradually.

Vibe 90, Vibe 50, Vigor CS x2,
Dyna-x, Knight 503D, Logo 10,
TRex 500, Furion, Gaui EP200

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02-08-2008 06:41 PM  10 years agoPost 7
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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There is probably more written on this subject than anything else on this forum, too much to copy and paste. If you read everything written you will be able to make an informed decision, and make up your own mind.

Chris

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02-08-2008 10:59 PM  10 years agoPost 8
Andy from Sandy

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Bedfordshire, UK

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If the engine is without a piston ring you have to get it up to operating temperature or else you will damage the engine. If the engine has a piston ring then get some temperature in it. For a ringed engine running it cold will just prolong the running in period and will acheive nothing but you will waste fuel.

So long as the engine is not run lean and so long as it is not strained it only takes a few tanks to notice that the engine is starting to produce power.

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02-09-2008 03:48 AM  10 years agoPost 9
tommytt1

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Mercerville, NJ, USA

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My Breakin Procedure
Here it goes. I personally like to breakin a heli engine on the bench on a stand with a propeller an 11/7 for a 50, 20% Coolpower, or any other 20% heli fuel, with the pipe or muffler that will be on the heli. I start by running the engine pig rich for two tanks at idle, just keeping it running when it wants to stall, with or without the glow igniter attached, low end needle at factory setting and high speed about a full turn more than factory. The next tank I go in three clicks on the high speed needle and run it one minute at half throttle, and one minute at idle, and repeat until the tank is almost empty. I do another tank in the same manor. The next three tanks, again three clicks in on the high speed needle, I alternate between thirty seconds at idle thirty seconds at half throttle and fifteen at full, and return to idle, repeat until the tank is almost empty. The next two tanks I idle for one minute, run at full for thirty seconds let cool for a minute at idle and repeat until tank is empty. Now you can increase the time at full throttle for the next tank or until the engine slows down on its own, thats just a sign that the engine is not fully broken in. If this happens just reduce to idle for a minute or so and repeat, making sure that enough oil is coming out of the exhuast. When the engine can sustain full throttle without slowing down due to the engine being tight, not too lean, its ready to go in the heli, and finish being broken in. Jut my two cents. Tom

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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02-09-2008 12:12 PM  10 years agoPost 10
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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Sounds like a waste of good fuel to me.

Running an engine "pig rich" does nothing but prolong the break in and in a case of ABx engines it can damage the engine and prevent it from ever making decent power.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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02-09-2008 08:27 PM  10 years agoPost 11
tommytt1

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Mercerville, NJ, USA

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Breakin
To each his own......

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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02-09-2008 11:05 PM  10 years agoPost 12
WJackson

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Smyrna, Delaware

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Breakin

To each his own....
Then why ask the question? Seriously though, a ringed motor needs to be run at operating temperature to break in. Temp on the head should be around 200F for break in and around 220 for peak, but on the safe side, performance.

RIP Roman
Bill Jackson
AlignUSA

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02-09-2008 11:09 PM  10 years agoPost 13
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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I was thinking the same thing.

But in any case I just didn't want some poor newb reading that and thinking it was a good idea.

No offense.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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02-09-2008 11:34 PM  10 years agoPost 14
tommytt1

rrVeteran

Mercerville, NJ, USA

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Question
I asked the question to see what others like to do for breakin. What is this the beginner thread. You two guys kill me. You gave me your opinions and that is great. Thanks alot. I will now ask for you two guys permission before I post anything. You two A-Holes make me laugh.

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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02-09-2008 11:56 PM  10 years agoPost 15
WJackson

rrElite Veteran

Smyrna, Delaware

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I wasnt trying to be an A-hole, but atleast I made ya laugh.

RIP Roman
Bill Jackson
AlignUSA

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02-10-2008 12:03 AM  10 years agoPost 16
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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I've acomplished something today! I made someone laugh and got called an ahole.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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02-10-2008 12:07 AM  10 years agoPost 17
tommytt1

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Mercerville, NJ, USA

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Everything is cool guys......Got your attention didn't I.

I made a mistake once, but I was wrong?

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02-10-2008 12:37 AM  10 years agoPost 18
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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[quote] During ring seating, the basic purpose is to establish metal-to-metal contact between the piston ring face and the cylinder barrel. In order for this process to take place, the rings must breach the the lubricating film of oil on the cylinder wall. As the rings begin to seat, the the ring-to-cylinder wall surface area increases and it becomes harder for the rings to breach the the protective film of oil. You can aid in this process by keeping the combustion chamber gas pressures at high levels during the early stages of break-in. The higher combustion gas pressures, as controlled by throttle position, force the piston rings to expand aginist the cylinder walls, breaching the protective layer film of oil and allowing the slight wear that we are trying to achieve. During initial break-in it is not uncommon to have cylinder head temperatures above the normal range for several minutes. This elevated temperature is an indication that initial ring seating is taking place. As the rings begin to seat to the cylinder walls the temperatures will drop. This usually occurs over a period of 10 to 20 minutes. Major aircraft engine manufacturer.

For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls.

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again. Chris

Chris

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02-10-2008 04:34 AM  10 years agoPost 19
Jeff polisena

rrElite Veteran

westpalmbeachflorida usa

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I idle rich for one tank then I hover low rpm and temp the second then each tank after I start to lean out a little until I get good power but still on the rich side and I leave it there I only lean out when I demand power and then I check temp with heat gun

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02-10-2008 01:43 PM  10 years agoPost 20
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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Jeff would you explain your reasoning for the technique that you use.

Chris

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