RunRyder RC
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ] 1710 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterPainting › A question for the paint sprayers...
02-07-2008 04:39 PM  10 years agoPost 1
ferincr

rrVeteran

From Argentina now in Costa Rica

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hi,
I'm trying to spray a fiberglass canopy, the primer goes well (I'm using two part automotive type) after that I wet sand it, I wipe it dry and then I wipe it with a cloth damp in paint thinner to get rid of any remaining dampness and stuck dust and here is when the problems start...
When I'm spraying the color (automotive type again) in few spots it tends to separate in sort of rounds spots (like if it hits wax or something like that) and I can't get rid of them, I sand it again and as soon as I spray it again they come back on the same places
Can someone tell me why this happens and how to solve it???
Thanks,
Fernando

Intelligence chases me, but I'm a lot faster! Fernando

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 04:55 PM  10 years agoPost 2
MEDICGRAY

rrNovice

Westerly, RI

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

definately sounds like you have a topcoat that's incomparable with the primer you applied. Check with the auto shop you got the paint from and make sure they r compatable.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:10 PM  10 years agoPost 3
ferincr

rrVeteran

From Argentina now in Costa Rica

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Well, it has to be something else because I bought the whole thing from them at the same time (primer, color and clear coat with all the catalizers and thinners)
Fernando

Intelligence chases me, but I'm a lot faster! Fernando

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:31 PM  10 years agoPost 4
MichaelP

rrKey Veteran

Northumberland UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Everything has to be compatible, you want an acid etch primer, paint and activator from the same supplier and remember to have your spray gun set up correctly.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:36 PM  10 years agoPost 5
TRACERBOB

rrVeteran

Closer than you think

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Those are called "fisheyes". They're caused by contaminates such as finger prints for instance. Your paint supplier should be able to hook you up with an additive to the paint to help alleviate that.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:39 PM  10 years agoPost 6
Dave M

rrApprentice

Mi.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

More than likely you have armor all or silicone nearby ??? Yes it sounds like you have fish eyes....

It's OK....It's not your fault !!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:39 PM  10 years agoPost 7
ferincr

rrVeteran

From Argentina now in Costa Rica

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Thanks Tracerbob, I'll see if they have something for it.

Intelligence chases me, but I'm a lot faster! Fernando

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:44 PM  10 years agoPost 8
snobdrs

rrVeteran

coatesville,pa-usa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

does the primer go on smooth? What are you using to wipe with thinner? sometimes the rag you use could be contaminated, try different, perferably a white one ass sometimes the thinner disolves the color. If that dosent work, try using prep solvent instead of thinner, that may cause it also.

Support your local hobby shop

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 05:46 PM  10 years agoPost 9
snobdrs

rrVeteran

coatesville,pa-usa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Also if you have a contaminated rag, and when you wet the rag you held it to the thinner can then tipped the can, you could have contaminated the thinner.

Support your local hobby shop

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 07:11 PM  10 years agoPost 10
Mike0251

rrVeteran

Hills of the Blue Ridge VA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Final wipe with a product called prep-sol or equivalent, not thinner. With thinner you have to be extra careful becasue it can eat right into your paint, with a proper surface degreaser you can wipe the crap out of it. Big difference, trust me. Wear gloves so you do not transfer oils from your skin. Wipe with a dust free tack cloth prior to painting. Spray your first coat very lightly, not much coverage. Wait a few minutes and spray another light coat. After several light coats you should have total coverage. Little steps on getting the paint to the surface. You have a contamination issue.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 07:47 PM  10 years agoPost 11
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

i had that exact problem last summer with a couple canopies. nothing was more frustrating.

im 99% confident that the primer i was using was contaminated. i have had it for some time, and i think maybe some oil or a hint of other residue got into it.

is the primer you used been in an area what may have contaminated the paint? like somewhere where you would spray oil..like WD-40...that is the worst. or any kind of silicon fibers or oils.

the paint shop in the Toyota factory i work at is extremely sensitive to contamination. its to the point where paint shop employees are not allowed to wear specific deoderants, perfumes, and even wash their hair with certain products.

onetime some contractors were doing some welding in the paint shop. soon after cars were comming out with sever paint defects. it was found that the welding blankets they used to protect equipment had silicon fibers in it.

in one of the E-Coat tanks that the cars run though, even a split second mist of something like WD-40 in the vasinity of the tanks will render thousands of gallons of the e-coat garbage.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 08:37 PM  10 years agoPost 12
ferincr

rrVeteran

From Argentina now in Costa Rica

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Wow!!!!
That's good to know, I just went back to the shop where I bought the stuff and they gave me the same advice (plus they sold me a degreaser) but I thought they were exaggerating on the sensitivity to contamination
Well, I'll sand it again and start from the beggining (again)

Intelligence chases me, but I'm a lot faster! Fernando

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 08:48 PM  10 years agoPost 13
Camp

rrApprentice

PA kinda. Mostly OTR driving

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Yep Fisheye. Tack cloths and a good finisher/degreaser prior to spraying is the only way to avoid it. Oils from your skin can ruin a finish.

Enamels and Lacquers are especially prone. Urethanes less so but it still can happen. Surface prep is everything in painting.

I used to paint motorcycles and actually got some good results in a garage with a wetted floor.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 08:53 PM  10 years agoPost 14
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

i dont think a degreaser will help you if the paint itself is contaminated.

i have painted dozens of canopies. i only use one thing before applying primer....Acetone...its mainly used on raw fiberglass to remove the release agents. works like a charm. after i wetsand with 400, i wipe it down with acetone. i only wipe in one direction, and i flip the cloth often to ensure i dont wipe on what i just wiped off.

then i apply the primer, and never an issue...unless its the paint itself.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 09:00 PM  10 years agoPost 15
Camp

rrApprentice

PA kinda. Mostly OTR driving

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

My experience is limited to cars and motorcycles and in everycase I've seen fisheye is an oil contamination problem. A good degreaser made for the purpose will prevent it. Obviously don't use something like carb cleaner. Even reducer will do the job.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 09:01 PM  10 years agoPost 16
dragonlord

rrVeteran

luton uk

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

dont wipe with thinners m8. its too harsh for rattel can paint m8
ushally wipeing with thinners will take the coat of paint off that you have just put on if your useing rattel cans
and warm the cans up a bit stand em in a bowl of warm warter before you give em a good skake

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 10:15 PM  10 years agoPost 17
Camp

rrApprentice

PA kinda. Mostly OTR driving

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Furious, while I respect your posts and statements, what your doing with acetone is cleaning the surface of oils which is what you should do regardless of the chemical used.

Beyond that a primer/sealer should be used as a base coat as long as it is compatable with top coat and wet sanded properly.

I do not know about Nitro resistant paints, that's outside of my experience. But for Gas I've found Urethane to be great and easy to work with. Both base coat and clear. Very amateur friendly as easy to use.

Just an opinion my friend.

Sheeze, I'm hungry, Bacon seasoning anyone?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 11:17 PM  10 years agoPost 18
TRACERBOB

rrVeteran

Closer than you think

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Don't use those red shop rags to wipe down with either. They're treated with something. Take it from me....I know.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 11:37 PM  10 years agoPost 19
nocontrol1

rrApprentice

Melbourne, FL, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Definately fisheyes! They result from silicone contamination. Add the appropriate amount of the recommended additive; you should have no more problems. Also eliminate the source of contamination. Most waxes will cause this as well.

Rob

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-07-2008 11:44 PM  10 years agoPost 20
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

spray can clears are garbage when it comes to nitro's.

it will melt off within a couple flights. it turns into a nice sticky goo that turns your heli into a fly trap.

i have used a poly urithane clear for a couple years now. the stuff i use is made by OMNI. i pay $100/gallon with the hardener. its not the best clear, but its not that bad either. its an excellent bang for the buck clear that will give a mirror stone hard finish all the way to the crash site.

here are just a few of the canopies i have done with that clear. i love the stuff. it doesn't even smell that bad, and it has a very low VOC.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2     NEXT    >> ] 1710 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterPainting › A question for the paint sprayers...
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 8  Topic Subscribe

Wednesday, December 12 - 5:58 am - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

The RC discussion world needs to consolidate. RR is now one choice for that. Its software is cutting edge. It hosts on-topic advertising. Help RR increase traffic buy making suggestions, posting in RR's new areas (sites) and by spreading the word.

The RunRyder Difference

• Category system to allow Rep/Vendor postings.
• Classifieds with sold (hidden) category.
• Classifieds with separate view new.
• Answer PMs offsite via email reply.
• Member gallery photos with advanced scripting.
• Gallery photo viewer integrated into postings.
• Highly refined search with advanced back end.
• Hosts its own high end fast response servers.
• Hosts thousands of HD event coverage videos.
• Rewrote entire code base with latest technology.
• No off-topic (annoying) click bait advertising.
Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online