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E-Sky › Feathering shaft dampers
02-06-2008 07:11 PM  10 years agoPost 1
ezzywave

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Wash.

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Thanx all for the help with the pitch gauge.

Now I have a question about the dampers in the feathering shaft assembly.

While replacing the feathering shaft (never fly at night under a dim streetlight 20 seconds after working under 2 halogen worklights) I came to the point of snugging down the nuts to the thrust bearings. How "snug" should they be? How much drag should the dampers put on the shaft?

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02-06-2008 07:19 PM  10 years agoPost 2
Blusaber

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Ca

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Hi

You don't want any end to end play but you do want the grips to turn freely and some up and down movement. to tight and you'll lock things up. You should be able to move the grips up and down with smooth movement.

Gary

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02-07-2008 06:39 AM  10 years agoPost 3
Gregor99

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Western Wa

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There are really two adjustments being discussed here. The first one is the thrust bearing tightness. As Blusaber says, this needs tight enough that the bearing is not loose make the blade grips loose on the shaft. But not so tight that it causes binding in the thrust bearing. The second is the pressure on the dampers. The greater the pressure the less damping you get in the hub. This dampens the transfer of rotor inertia to the airframe. The less damping the snappier the transfer. Too much as some of odd head osilations make it the rest of the airframe. Never had it happen even with washers in place of the dampers, but I've read about.

The stock HBK2 doesn't really seperate these two adjustments. One nut affects both. With CNC head, like so many other helis, shaft length is fixed. Instead of a nut there is screw. You can crank it down tight and it doesn't over tighten the head. If you want more damper pressure you add some shims (washers) next to the damper.

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02-07-2008 11:41 AM  10 years agoPost 4
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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Dont forget stiffer dampeners from Dougie-boys fieldbox. Wivdshield washer hose frof local autoparts store.

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02-07-2008 11:53 AM  10 years agoPost 5
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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You Know tryan, I never tried it on a stock King head, only on the CopterX head. It can be a little tricky because you have to cut both the same length and perfectly square. I do like almost zero or "stiff" dampning, it does does your head more responsive for sure. For anyone just learning to hover I think less dampning is better.

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02-07-2008 02:56 PM  10 years agoPost 6
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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I got an Idea for your next try at head dampening doug it dries like a hard rubber hose. And would be a lifetime supply of head dampening. Just let it setup and done.

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02-07-2008 10:59 PM  10 years agoPost 7
DougsRC

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Mass.

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I like it Tryan, It says industrial on it. Is it available to the public ?????

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02-07-2008 11:05 PM  10 years agoPost 8
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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yes can get it at craft stores. It takes 24 hrs to dry But will stick S**t to applesauce. I use it for canopy glue dries to clear hard rubber.

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02-07-2008 11:19 PM  10 years agoPost 9
Texas Dar

rrApprentice

Branson-Hollister Mo. USA

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I need to ask the dumest question ! What is a feathering shaft. I've looked in my King Book, and nothing. Im missing somethin-here.

Mommy Said, I Can "Come Out & Fly With You Guys"

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02-07-2008 11:30 PM  10 years agoPost 10
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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there is a few names for it its the shaft that holds the blade grips to the head. The head dampeners are the O-rings around that shaft that dampen vibration in the head.

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02-08-2008 12:09 AM  10 years agoPost 11
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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Also called the "spindle" shaft and in Chinglish perhaps the "head locking steel rodule"

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02-08-2008 03:38 AM  10 years agoPost 12
tutelar-rc

rrKey Veteran

Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

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Have you guys tried the "bearing mod" on the HBK2 head? It rocks on the Belt CP...

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02-08-2008 03:45 AM  10 years agoPost 13
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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No, still using stock squishy o-rings. But its plenty crisp for me with the CNC head but like using cheap fixes. When I replace mine Ill probably go with the washer hose.

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02-08-2008 03:49 AM  10 years agoPost 14
Sgt Heli

rrVeteran

Remlap, Al USA

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On the Esky parts packs that shaft is called the "axle shaft". I just installed the "Extreme CNC hardened" axle shaft. Now I'll probably have to replace the main shaft instead.

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02-08-2008 06:50 AM  10 years agoPost 15
ezzywave

rrNovice

Wash.

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Ahhh, "bearing mod"??? Wazzat?

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02-08-2008 07:00 AM  10 years agoPost 16
Gregor99

rrElite Veteran

Western Wa

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Your replace the rubber O rings with bearings. I haven't tried that, but I did put metal washers in place of the rings. I did it see if would help with the tracking issues. It didn't so I took them out. The HBK2 cyclic is pretty quick already so it may not be as good of an upgrade compared to the larger Belt CP. At my skill level I couldn't apprecate it anyway so I felt it was better to run it stock until I felt like I needed a lot more response.

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02-08-2008 11:34 AM  10 years agoPost 17
DougsRC

rrProfessor

Mass.

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AAAHHHHH.... The bearing MOD.. indeed. I have done it on the Blade CP pro... the upside is your cyclic response will be QUICKER (maybe no so good for a new guy who might have a tendincy to overcorrect anyway) The downside of the MOD is EVERYTHING thing on your heli has to be perfectly straight and true or you'll have a vibratin, head wobblin HOB gobblin

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02-08-2008 09:41 PM  10 years agoPost 18
tutelar-rc

rrKey Veteran

Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

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Don't think I would do it on a CNC head - you can't take out all the slop...

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