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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › Newbie Evo 50 Questions(LONG)
02-04-2008 05:23 PM  10 years agoPost 1
dynomite

rrNovice

Belmont, Wisconsin

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Howdy all! Well as a total heli newbie in an area where there are no other heli flyers within 50 miles I have been relying heavily on this site and other like it to get my bird set-up and flying. I purchased an already assembled but totally new, never flown Evo 50 in September of last year. Once I recieved it I spent 3 weeks going over it with a fine tooth comb and setting it all up on my radio(Futaba 9C Super). I maidened the heli on October 13, video [url=http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=1337784] since then I flew it once more and crashed when I was trying some FF and an overly banked turn + wind gust = meeting with mother earth. I rebuilt the machine with the standard crash kit and then the winter started here in Wisconsin. Finally yesterday I decided the temp was 32F and the wind was only 5-10mph and I was tired of being scared of the wind. I have been practicing ALLOT in the wind on the sim and can handle it fine there so to the field I went.

Once I got the engine to fire I had 2 uneventful tankfulls and at the 6min 30 second mark of the third tank I performed my first autorotation!! Unintentional of course!! I was about 35 feet up and hovering nose in practicing it and the engine just died. No warning, no speeding up like out of fuel, just dead. Thankfully I have been diligently practicing autos and was able to successfully land it. After my heart returned to less than 500 beats per minute I walked over to the machine some 100yds away and there it sat all pristine and unhurt. I radio checked and everything worked and I had 1/4 tank of fuel left. Then I smiled from ear to ear as I realized I had just successfully completed my first auto and landed it nose-in no less. So kudos to the people here for preparing me for that. Now to the questions.

1)What could have caused deadstick? I looked over everything, glo plug fine, battery fine, no loose connections..I am perplexed?

2)As you can see in my video the machine shakes pretty good on spool up, but once there is some rotor speed it settles. There is no fuel foaming and I balanced blades etc. Is this normal? I have nothing to base it on as the only heli I have seen flown in person is mine!

3)On liftoff, or rather just before the heli wants to pirouette about 15-20 degrees to the left(nose left looking at tail) then it will come straight up. Is this normal? Possibly due to the fact that I have cheater landing gear on it yet, or is this something in setup?

Thanks for all of the help and sorry for the book, I just have no one else to ask questions.

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02-04-2008 05:41 PM  10 years agoPost 2
tadawson

rrElite Veteran

Lewisville, TX

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1) Not sure. Are you still running rich for breaking? It might just be too rich, based on what you said . . .

2) How tight are your blades in the grips? If they are too tight, they will not be able to seek correct position until your head speed is pretty high, resulting in shaking. The normal rule of thumb is just tight enough that when you hold the heli on it's side and gently bounce it, they don't slip . .

3) I assume that you are initializing in heading hold? Unless you have the heli in the same position that you initialized in, it will want to seek that position when it comes off the ground. If it is a 401 (or similar) I suggest that you either flip to normal and back to HH, cycle the switch three times to reinit the gyro, or just init the gyro in place and position where you want to take off. As you get more experienced, this won't be an issue - you will automatically make the correction, and not notice this. One other thing that may be a factor is having too low a headspeed at liftoff - and a corresponding low tail rotor speed, in that it can't compensate at that point. Not as likely, but possible . . .

- Tim

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02-04-2008 06:10 PM  10 years agoPost 3
RayJayJohnsonJr

rrKey Veteran

Midwest

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Well, if you,ve been drinking in everything runryder has to offer, you're probably aware of this. But if not, I'll mention it. Did you, or the builder, use RTV (silicon seal) on the muffler to help seal the mating surface? If a bit of that flakes off and finds the glow plug, it will stop just as you described. Thought it might be worth mentioning.

-Mark

There, their and they're. It's really that simple.

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02-04-2008 06:35 PM  10 years agoPost 4
AltecLansing

rrElite Veteran

North Carolina

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I aggree checking on the rtv in the glow plug. Also, being rich can stall you out when moving throttle back and forth. Check and make sure the muffler is tight.

Man, I miss the eighties.

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02-04-2008 06:55 PM  10 years agoPost 5
dynomite

rrNovice

Belmont, Wisconsin

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You know what now that I think of it there might be RTV on the muffler. I will definitely be taking that apart tonight and checking on it.

Also I didn't realize that if I initialized the heli in one direction and then moved the heli to my takeoff spot and put it in a different orientation that would effect the gyro. Is there anyway to change this short of switching on/off or modes as tadawson suggested? Would moving tail while light on skids but not yet lifted off change this? Gyro gain adjustment?

Thanks for all the help guys!

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02-04-2008 07:02 PM  10 years agoPost 6
AltecLansing

rrElite Veteran

North Carolina

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when you move your heli from one spot to another with a 401 gyro, you need only take the rudder stick and quickly move it back and forth 3 times. This causes the servo to go back to center instead of reinitializing the gyro. When I used a 401, I did that all the time.

Man, I miss the eighties.

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02-04-2008 08:30 PM  10 years agoPost 7
Andy from Sandy

rrElite Veteran

Bedfordshire, UK

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Once an engine has gotten upto speed and got some temperature in it, even if it is set rich, whilst hovering and some forward flight I have not seen one just flame out. If the engine were running lean it would typically start falling out of the sky with lack of power but again I haven't seen an engine just stop, except for when it blew a hole in the piston.

Check very carefully the clunk line for any holes or if it is going gooey and might collapse under pressure and unless it is in real good condition you might as well change it now you have it out of the tank. Check for any blockages that might have occurred in the muffler pressure feed. Check the fuel filter has not got blocked and limiting fuel flow. Check carb for debris. If you have a header tank then check that as well. Check the exhaust nipple has not become restricted. Even if you don't actually find anything the action of going through the plumbing and cleaning the parts may just fix it.

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02-04-2008 09:12 PM  10 years agoPost 8
Helijost

rrApprentice

Pevely, MO - USA

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One other thing to check is your low speed mix. What I have seen is that is you are too rich on the low end, you can get a dead stick on throttle down. I have seen it time and time again on the Hyper 50. Being rich isn't a bad thing, but there is a point of too rich. Also, check your throttle throw. Make sure it is linear in line with the horns. What I mean by this is that the two balls that the linkage hooks to, should be in parellel at all times. If not, you can end up with a dead spot. Just a couple of things to check.

Team Mikado USA

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02-06-2008 12:10 AM  10 years agoPost 9
Heliflyer69

rrVeteran

Northen Cali

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My initial thoughts were you burned a plug. Inspection, and replacement is rule#1 on a flame-out. However, keep in mind, that some of us have gone through 2 or 3 plugs before getting one that holds a tune.

If you find the prob isnt glowplug, there are several other areas to take a close look at.

Is the clunk line still attached? As well as all your other fuel lines/pressure line?

Upon 1st inpsection (before even moving the bird), did you notice any air bubbles in your carb inlet line?

If this heli has ever been crashed...were all the fuel lines replaced? Main and head tank checked for leaks?

The spool-up shake is more then likely due to having the main blades too loose, or too tight. general rule for setting up main blade bolts is; hold the heli horizonal..the blades should not fall. Loosen em up a tad and see if its any better.
There are exceptions to this rule. Blade stopping autos need em fairly snug. When they fold in flight...might as well set down your TX.

Lastely, the nose moving a bit on spool-up is more then likely your training gear. Your tail blades need to catch up in speed in order to be able to hold your tail. Peeps that dont use skid stops encounter this all the time.

The list goes on and on, but think you get the general idea of whats involed in keeping one of these in the air Excluding Murphys Law

Roy

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02-06-2008 05:56 AM  10 years agoPost 10
Leif

rrElite Veteran

USA

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Clunk Line
I think the clunk line is the most likely suspect. Considering that you got the heli used and it has also been sitting for a while. The stock clunk line that comes with the kit is usually mush after just a few months (if that).

The clunk doesn't even need to have any visible splits or cracks to be bad. The cheap stuff turns to mush and can kink when bent causing a total fuel blockage.

I've had a few of those unscheduled autos. It's amazing how well you can nail the ones that aren't planned.

Leif

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