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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › OS50 HYPER w/RUSTY BEARING
02-06-2008 01:41 PM  10 years agoPost 41
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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Dear National,

I guess is just not my day. I am darn unlucky.....goosh.
Still i blame OS for the rusty bearing. Why? First time i had such a lousy encounter even though I agreed and acknowledge their well-known reputation as one of the best leading engine maker in the world. Still, is them to blame, darn

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02-06-2008 06:55 PM  10 years agoPost 42
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Still need the answer -- is this an OS or the Align version?

Once the engine leaves the factory, the manufacturer can't control how it's taken care of, either in shipping, storage, or on the hobby shop shelf.

Steel rusts. Get over it.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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02-08-2008 10:43 AM  10 years agoPost 43
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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dear dykshema,
Is OS50hyper, and the design is the same as align.

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02-08-2008 12:48 PM  10 years agoPost 44
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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Dear Bagowitz,

Now I wonder my engine OS bearing's making??? Coz there is no marking/no brand on the inner bearing. It looks like is un-branded or something like that. Could it be possible??

Darn, now OS manufacturer make me wonder are they using cheap bearing to cut cost and increase profit??

I guess only times will tell.

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02-08-2008 01:06 PM  10 years agoPost 45
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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ANY bearing, no matter WHO made it, WILL rust if the races or balls are made from steel.

Branding of the bearing has nothing to do with the physical properties of steel.

You are being very evasive about answering the question "is this an OS Hyper, or an Align Hyper". Is there a reason you won't answer the question? Your last response wasn't exactly clear.

The two are supposed to be the same design with the Align Hyper being a re-branded OS, but perhaps OS has allowed Align to build their version. If that's the case, maybe once again Align shows its true colors, using substandard materials for everything it does. That's only speculation, I don't know.

You're really obsessing over this thing. There's a whole life out there waiting to be lived. Accept the fact that steel rusts, you're one of the very few people in the world to have had this particular problem, and get over it already.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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02-08-2008 03:17 PM  10 years agoPost 46
bagobitz

rrVeteran

saddleworth,lancs,UK

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Harrier, my screen name has lost something in translation

BAG of BITS is what i return with wnen i return from "flying"

so," bag o' bitz "

There are several possible reasons for there to be no markings

the bearings were a large order and OS contracted their supplier to NOT brand them (very common in ALL industries...do you REALLY think supermarkets make their own name-brand products? )
this ties the unworldly to buying their replacement from the engine-manufacturer at their price-point.

They were made to a particular purchaser-specification and as such were not the manufacturer's normal ,stock production item.

the cost of stamping ID was saved.

an inferior product produced to contract ,the manufacturer not wanting to be associated with the item.

If you do a bit of internet research, you will be able to find a reputable local engineering merchant/bearing stockist, and be able to buy a bearing exactly the same size with the fit and finish you want.

I have read that certain models of engine are prone to bearing-failures. I can only speculate that the original bearings were substandard quality/poorly specified.

be interesting to hear other theories.

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02-09-2008 12:19 AM  10 years agoPost 47
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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Dear dykshema

I did answer your question. Is just above your post, i mean 2 post away from you. Pls scroll up.

If you miss it, my engine is OS50HYPER

I went to buy bearing today, and I found out from the sales person, that the front bearing is made in japan, whereas the inner/rear bearing is made in china. Now I really wonder as to the quality of the bearing.

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02-09-2008 12:21 AM  10 years agoPost 48
GimbalFan (RIP)

rrProfessor

Big Coppitt Key, FL

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You'll rarely need to replace the front bearing in that engine. You may want to consider finding somewhere online like RC-Bearings and order 3 or 4, and you may also want to consider ordering ceramic versions since Hong Kong is a very humid environment and more prone to rust. Paul will take care of you.

op-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-thwop-t

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02-09-2008 12:23 AM  10 years agoPost 49
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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thanks gimballfan for your advice

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02-10-2008 04:01 PM  10 years agoPost 50
Jeff polisena

rrElite Veteran

westpalmbeachflorida usa

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Send it to me and I will replace bearings for about 12.00 High head speed and nitro attracting moisture is common I hang my helis on wall with nose up so moisture goes to bottom of piston which is aluminum and not on bearing the moisture will rise to top and oil residue will fall to bottom and give a little more life to bearing

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02-11-2008 05:28 AM  10 years agoPost 51
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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thanks jeff for ur offer, but i am in hong kong

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02-11-2008 07:38 PM  10 years agoPost 52
jdrayton

rrNovice

Bracknell, Berkshire, UK.

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Gentlemen,

There is a solution to your rusty hyper bearings....

A friend and I used to struggle to get more than about 30 flights out of a set of bearings before you would begin to hear the rattling sound that we all know too well.

For the last year or so, at the end of every flying session we run some straight fuel through the engine to dive out any nitro. The straight fuel consists 15% synthetic oil, 2% castor the ballance methanol. To avoid contaminating the straight fuel with any nitro it is best to connect a separate bottle containing the straight fuel direct to the engine. We normally run the engine for about 2 minutes blipping the throttle to drive out any of the nitro fuel. Then disconnect the the straight fuel and let the engine continue to run to burn off the remaining fuel left in the carb. Once the engine has died, fully open the throttle and use your starter to turn the engine over and blow through any exhaust fumes. Then finally close the throttle (fully closed) plug the exhaust and use a starter shaft turn the engine over so that the piston is in the top dead position - this helps prevent any moisture getting into the engine.

Since adopting this technique we are consistantly achieving 70-100 flights before a bearing change.

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02-11-2008 08:15 PM  10 years agoPost 53
baddynergy

rrElite Veteran

sierra madre, ca- usa

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There is a solution to your rusty hyper bearings....

A friend and I used to struggle to get more than about 30 flights out of a set of bearings before you would begin to hear the rattling sound that we all know too well.

For the last year or so, at the end of every flying session we run some straight fuel through the engine to dive out any nitro. The straight fuel consists 15% synthetic oil, 2% castor the ballance methanol. To avoid contaminating the straight fuel with any nitro it is best to connect a separate bottle containing the straight fuel direct to the engine. We normally run the engine for about 2 minutes blipping the throttle to drive out any of the nitro fuel. Then disconnect the the straight fuel and let the engine continue to run to burn off the remaining fuel left in the carb. Once the engine has died, fully open the throttle and use your starter to turn the engine over and blow through any exhaust fumes. Then finally close the throttle (fully closed) plug the exhaust and use a starter shaft turn the engine over so that the piston is in the top dead position - this helps prevent any moisture getting into the engine.

Since adopting this technique we are consistantly achieving 70-100 flights before a bearing change.
That seems like an awful lot of work.

I already get over 350 flights on a hyper without doing any of this. I dont even run the engine dry. I just seal it up. Plug the exhaust, close the carb and turn engine to TDC. I Havent replaced a hyper bearing yet.

**Unattended children will be givin a shot of espresso and a puppy**

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02-11-2008 08:18 PM  10 years agoPost 54
jdrayton

rrNovice

Bracknell, Berkshire, UK.

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I agree it is a lot of trouble but it's still better than having to strip the engine down every 30 flights.....

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02-12-2008 11:16 AM  10 years agoPost 55
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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well, i couldnt have agree more. Is quite a task to clean up the engine. Anyway, i do appreciate your advice, quite valuable. thanks

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02-15-2008 09:28 PM  10 years agoPost 56
Timbers

rrApprentice

Wisconsin

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Corrosion
Through trial and error we have discovered in our club that the bearings are being corroded by combustion residue left over in the engine after a day's flying. Running the fuel out in your engine after flying really does not solve the problem of corrosion in the engine, although I do agree that it needs to be done after you are done flying for the day. Again, the problem is NOT related to alcohol absorbing water and corroding your bearings, its a chemical reaction between the combustion/exhaust residue and the steel.

A few of us, at the end of the day, have been flushing the engines out with an after run type oil. What I have been using is "Starrett M1 machine too lube". You can find it in a Google search. I haven't experimented, but I would be willing to be WD-40 would work just as well...

On non-pumped engines, just hook it up to the fuel line, open your throttle when the engine is cold, give it a squirt, crank it, squirt, crank it, and when you notice the Starrett coming out the exhaust stop, close your throttle and pack your heli up. If you have a pumped engine, or regulated, I've been hooking up the Starrett to the nipple on the backplate, and injecting it that way, since the regulators won't allow much of anything be forced into them.

My rear bearing and my crank shaft have been gleaming, shiny, and brand new looking now for almost three years. I never replace bearings anymore. I used to replace bearings after as little as 2 weeks of flying because they appeared as if they were sitting at the bottom of a river. They would slowly get to the point where they were so loud that you knew you had to replace them.

Hope this helps.

...Tim

You fly RC helicopters? Can I have a ride?

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02-16-2008 01:48 AM  10 years agoPost 57
harrier8131

rrNovice

hong kong

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Dear Tim,

I thought WD40 is a NO NO. cos the piston might get screeching with the cyclinder. Pls advise, thanks

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02-16-2008 04:55 AM  10 years agoPost 58
firefox

rrApprentice

Thailand

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I think people are missing the issue here, guys. Yes, an engine *will* rust, given time. But the point here is that the engine was only two months old, and has rusted. It's not as if he's left it for extreme periods of time without flying, either. Me, I've left my engines for months, with a little fuel inside the tanks, and without any after-run, with no ill-effects whatsoever. And I live in a *very* humid environment.

Of course Hobby Services might offer great service, but it's not OS, and it's not providing service in Hong Kong. Also, the level of service offered by distributors in the US can often be much better than that offered by the mother company itself (lawsuits and punitive damage, anyone?). I think the issue might be that OS of Japan doesn't really have anybody to take care of anything not-Japan related.

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02-16-2008 05:23 AM  10 years agoPost 59
Timbers

rrApprentice

Wisconsin

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If I didn't do the after run cleansing of my engine I mine as well send them all in every couple of weeks because they will all corrode.

As for WD-40 like I said I haven't tried it yet, and I don't have any information on it, so I can't say. The Starrett M1 spray smells a lot like WD-40 thats why I was wondering if the chemical properties of the two might be very similar.

Either or, its just a fluid to cleanse your engine out. I bet other fluids might work too...

...Tim

You fly RC helicopters? Can I have a ride?

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02-16-2008 03:37 PM  10 years agoPost 60
GMPheli

rrElite Veteran

W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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I have heard the boat guys use WD-40 as an afterun a lot. The issue that can arise is if you have rust in your motor, WD-40 tends to free it which is not a good thing as it makes a wonderful abrasive.

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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › OS50 HYPER w/RUSTY BEARING
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