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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Help with engine trouble - Vario
02-06-2008 06:03 PM  10 years agoPost 41
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

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So I might open that up a little more just to be on the safe side.
OH no! It is probably too late but don’t do that. A pin hole is adequate. It only needs an impulse not a large volume of air. If the hole in the gasket is too large it could leak the impulse to other areas of the carb.
I'm having the EXACT same problem!
The problem was originally described as an engine that will run fine for an hour and then start acting up (die and come back to life). Failsafe could explain it nicely. A bearing heating up causing interference, failsafe is initiated, engine slows down and the interference disappears but when the rpm increases the interference should come back rather quickly. If it does not and the engine seems fine for the rest of the flight if wouldn’t be a normal failsafe problem. Failsafe does not explain a white dry plug. That can only be explained by fuel starvation.

Needle settings of 1 ½ with signs of lean conditions says to me fuel starvation to begin with that only gets worse when the engine gets warm. If the engine quits momentarily and then seems to run fine afterwards maybe you are backing off the hard flying from that point on because you are nervous it will happen again.

My suggestion is to clean out the tank and get rid of any filtered clunk for just one test. If it is the filtered clunk the mixture will go rich immediately. You need to be able to get the mixture rich at the 1 ½ needle setting or you are sunk to begin with.

Ace
What could be more fun?

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02-07-2008 06:23 AM  10 years agoPost 42
dr-rudie

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Sydney - Australia

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OH no! It is probably too late but don’t do that.
hmmmmm yeahhh, too late :P I just made the hole the same size as the pulse hole coming from the cylinder and into the carby; the gasket was slightly smaller than this hole.
I'm having the EXACT same problem!
Well, actually, I'm not having the "can't get the engine rich" issue, just the missing/skipping/cutting out problem :P Actually come to think of it, it doesn't take long for this to occur either. It can happen at any time through the first (earliest has been a couple of mins into flight) and subsequent tanks. Surely Zone8's and my own issues are related, if not one and the same?
Another idea is to fly at an other location
I've tried a couple of locations now, but that doesn't rule out that problem; perhaps the interference is coming from a source on the heli itself? (if it is an interference issue that is)
are the carb bolts too long
Double checked these bolts but they're seated fine; not protruding further than the insulator block.
I guess its time to see if you have a restricted muffler..
I'm running the Hatori muffler that's suited to the Spectra G... can't for the life of me think of the model number!
Regarding changing oil, I'll give a go on the next can refill.

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02-07-2008 08:39 AM  10 years agoPost 43
FCM

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Surrey, England

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Be aware that Zone 8 is running a G230RC engine and my advice relates to this engine model running in a Benzine.I do believe Bill is refering to Zone 8's running issues too.

Paul.

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02-07-2008 12:18 PM  10 years agoPost 44
erichevy

rrVeteran

Zevenhoven The Netherlands

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Ok you ruled-out the inteference caused on one location.
Please find out if the failsafe (pcm lock-out) is acting up on you.
Try to disable your throttle failsafe temporarely, and see what this does.
If it is a lockout, then there are lot's of reasons which can cause that.
Like:
A bad bearing(s),
Antenna wire routed wrong,
Metal to metal contact by some parts,
Or a loose connection somewhere,
Bad plug,
engine is not earthed to to frame and or tailboom,

Eric.

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02-07-2008 12:40 PM  10 years agoPost 45
zone8

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Ireland

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This thread has become a little confused, my situation, however, looks solved: after torquing down the bolt, the leak is still there, a little smaller, and about 1/2 inch to the left (away from the bolt). I also leaned the low needle (despite the white plug) because after torquing the bolt the tail was twitchy, I added more oil to the fuel mixture, I replaced the plug, and lowered the headspeed from 1400 to 1350. I went to fly doing harsh manouvres, including flips and rolls, and the engine never missed for the entire flying session. The plug also looks a bit darker now. Hope it's not a fluke.

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02-07-2008 01:42 PM  10 years agoPost 46
erichevy

rrVeteran

Zevenhoven The Netherlands

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So I was not wrong by stating:
"The leak at the cylinder base will create a loss of engine vacuum.
And running lean is the consequence of that."

If I where you I'd solve the leaking for good, and pull the cylinder to change the Cylinder base gasket.
Or a "dab" of gasoline proof sealer may fix it too.
The leakage may haunt you, and it might get worse.
Why did you add more oil to your fuel?

Eric.

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02-07-2008 04:13 PM  10 years agoPost 47
FCM

rrElite Veteran

Surrey, England

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Glad things are now working okay Zone 8 I still doubt that your leaking base gasket caused your plug to run white unless it was a real gusher. Post a pic of your plug now if you can. Adding oil actually leans out the mixture too but it does sound as though you are getting there.
Try to disable your throttle failsafe temporarely, and see what this does.
This is not a good idea if the RX really is locking out. If you set 'hold' on the throttle channel then you will probably lose control of the heli imediately the lock-out occurs never to regain it leading to the inevitable
If you want to find out if it is a PCM fail safe condition, do it on the ground with an engine on range check following an engine off range check. Flying it is really taking a risk.

Paul.

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02-07-2008 05:46 PM  10 years agoPost 48
AceBird

rrElite Veteran

Utica, NY USA

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Surely Zone8's and my own issues are related, if not one and the same?
That is making a huge assumption. The slightest detail can make a major change in the prognosis. The better you describe the symptoms the easier it is to determine what is wrong.
Just thought of another possible with your engine - leaking top crank seal. These can suck air in causing erratice/lean running. No easy way of checking this in situ. as far as I am aware.
You can check for this condition by capping off the exhaust port, removing the carb and pressurizing the case with compressed air. It would be prudent to shake the crank end when checking for leaks. Something made your engine mount break and after it broke you now claim it is wobbly.
This thread has become a little confused, my situation, however, looks solved: after torquing down the bolt, the leak is still there, a little smaller, and about 1/2 inch to the left (away from the bolt).
This is obviously a known problem for this engine so why not add more screws even if they are smaller. There appears to be enough material to get more in. Or make miniature clamps something like this that will help hold the flanges together:

Ace
What could be more fun?

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02-07-2008 06:32 PM  10 years agoPost 49
erichevy

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Zevenhoven The Netherlands

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Quote
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Try to disable your throttle failsafe temporarely, and see what this does.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is not a good idea if the RX really is locking out.
You're probably right Paul.
It is better to "raise" the failsave throttle percentage.
So that if the lockout occurs you'll notice another throttle dip.
Maybe, there is a better way...

Eric.

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