I just got my Fuselage from Century and am starting the build.
I am going to do a Photo essay on the build. I would like to call this a "How to" article..but as it goes along there may be a few "How NOT to's" in there.. All in all I think it should go well..and my goal here, is to help anyone out there wanting to do this project. Or something similar..If any of you have any suggestions, hints,etc. feel free to jump in here..
The Main Components are:
Mechanics- TREX 600CF. stock motor, esc. GY611 w/9256 Air Thunder 6s 5000MA.
Fuselage- Funkey 500MD Tow Defender, unpainted version from Century.
First look out of the box is impressive! This thing is big. The packaging is very good, with the components sealed in separate plastic bags.
Of course the immediate response is to get everything out stick it together and do a quick dream.....
That done, time to open the instruction booklet and read...even the booklet is in a plastic bag!
I will say on the first read through there are a few things that are confusing but they clear up as you go along....the pictures could be a bit clearer..but then we all should be used to this, with the nature of RC helicopter kits.
But, on with the build...
First page first pictures..I'm lost!! Pic shows front shot of Fuse where the nose joins with a bunch of "A's" and "B"s" stratigically placed around the perimeter..and says "Glue 4 pcs. of 3x10x16MM plywood and drill 3MM holes at B.
OK, So I'm an old stick and paper guy and I'm thinking this is a pre-fabricated former to be glued in for support behind where the two halves of the Fuse join. So, I'm searching thruogh all the parts bags and can't find these pieces!!
RTFB!!!! (Read the #$%&^&* Book!!) Me, like a dummy, didn't catch the dimensions of the pieces!!! 10x16MM by 3mm thick!!! these are small blocks of wood that simply support the screws they want you to join the halves with.
After that waste of about an hour, I decided that I wasn't going to join the fuse that way anyway, so I would leave that work till later in the build.. (I want to be able to take the nose off for battery replacement and plug in.)
So..the next step is the Launcher supports for the rocket tubes..
I'm not entirely sure I am going with Rockets for armament, but what ever I use will still need these supports so I decided to put them on. Pretty straight forward stuff here 4 screws, no biggy.
The next few steps relate to detail parts such as lights (fake) ant. etc. I am going to install real lighting with LED's and I didn't want to ruin other detail stuff while the paint process is going on, so I skipped over all this part.
The Tail fin is next. Now this kit is designed for a gasser mechanics..specifically Sceadu,Raptor,and Century. So all the templates are made for these. To mount the tail fin I compared it to the Trex unit lining up the center of the "V's" with the two parts.
I discovered that one of the lower holes for the Gasser mechaincs lines up. I drilled this one out and the put a bolt through it. With this in place it simply required a quick line up with the two fins and I drilled the other hole using the Trex part as a jig. I then mounted it on the Rex and it looks great!
I guess I should mention here that I have opted to have the TR on the "correct" side of the boom. We have had a lot of discussion here on another thread about this and I have experimented with it and have it working just fine. I have , however decided not to use the Torque tube drive as it causes the TR to rotate in the wrong direction (in my line of thinking) so I am going to replace it with the stock belt drive.
The next step is the skid assembly. Not a lot of work here, real similar to the stock TREX build except...you mount the supports inside the fuse with socket head self tappers. Now, the front two are a piece of cake. But the back two...well let's just say you neeed a pair of "Chinese Fingers" to get the wrench in there to tighten them down!!! There is just no room!! I took a comfortable chair and watched some TV while I turned the screws with an allen wrench 1/8 turn at a time..
As I noted above, I purchased the unpainted version. I didn't want the "Army" paint job (Ex-Marine pilot here) and couldn't see paying all that extra money and then just sanding it off!!!
So, the first work is filling the parting/assembly lines and sanding /shaping the parts. I started with 150 grit paper and scuffed it all down to eliminate any high spots. Then I went over any imperfections with a product called "Squadren Green" putty. This product is readily available at hobby shops and does a great job as a filler.
I will say the overall finish/assembly of the fiberglass is quite good. The details are crisp, and the joints really don't take a lot of work to get smooth.
The next thing I decided to do was measure the two components and see how I was going to make them fit. (Mechanics and Fuselage)
The instructions give you pages on adapting the three mechanics they recommend so I had a place to start. From previous builds I have learned that the tailboom is always the most important part to get fitted right.So I started with the cutout at the head on the fuse and measured to the end of the boom this gave me 29"s.
Next I measured from the head on the Rex to the TR.
Now these are rough measurments but...it sure looks like all I will have to do is some minor trimming to make this work!
Next up is the TR Servo. I said before I want the TR on the "correct" side and this required flipping to gearbox etc. Well to make the servo work I had to mount it upside down on the boom.
Now..to see if it would work there.
Again I measured from the head back to the servo. About 9"S..
And now the "Doghouse" on the fuse: About 81/2"s
Wow! this might just work!! I have enough room on the tail boom to move the servo forward so all I should have to do is make up a new linkage rod. Could this really be this easy? Probably not..but time will tell..
well That's all for today..I am heading back down to the shop and start trying to fit things..till next time I hope you enjoy this.
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