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HomeAircraftHelicopterJR Heli Vibe 90/50, Sylphide 90, GSR260 › Vibe 50 , March , Maybe???
03-06-2008 12:39 AM  10 years agoPost 821
Droid

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Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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I'll drop Andy a PM!!

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03-06-2008 12:50 AM  10 years agoPost 822
colsy

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Cambridge, UK

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I'm out as well.

It's so heavy the postage costs will make it uneconomical.

col.

Only Quote From Experience.

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03-06-2008 01:09 AM  10 years agoPost 823
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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ROTFL

I don't know about you folks but just because I'm not going to praise a bird no matter how it flies just because I bought it, only shows that I stick to my principles. Thats probably why I'll never be a field rep. If the machine stinks for my style, I'll be the first one to say so.

200£? Does that include the paint job that is going on the canopy?

Tony

PS - I think 4 hours studying the manual is enough. Time to move on page 2!


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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03-06-2008 01:34 AM  10 years agoPost 824
tchavei

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Portugal

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There is hope afterall!

Check out Main rotor diameter = 620mm

Thats obviously wrong so I hope they got the weight wrong too

Tony


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03-06-2008 01:59 AM  10 years agoPost 825
mdu6

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Montreal

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Nice, typical JR construction and details shown in the manual.
(yes I know I'm bias )

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03-06-2008 12:15 PM  10 years agoPost 826
hockeyrules99

rrApprentice

topeka KS

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I will add one note about the clutch bell build process that is critical. You need to loctite the clutch bell to the bearing that it rides in with 609 green loctite or 271 red loctite. If you do not the bell will turn inside the bearing and all of the parts involved will be ruined in the process. I also now recomend heating the actuall clutch bell bearing up and pushing it out in favor of using a better loctite to hold it in the block. As I have found that what JR uses breaks loose eventually. And when it does the bearing spins in the bearing block with much the same results. Always apply the loctite to the bearing surface, and wipe off any excess after it is pressed in place. This keeps the loctite out of the bearings! Write this stuff in your manuals guys. This stuff will save you money down the road.
tip from Buzzin brian on the 90 vibe but I'm pretty sure it will apply to the 50.

John

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03-06-2008 12:41 PM  10 years agoPost 827
Rbush

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here

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This is very funny.

Since Mac_man said it was here, the post count is well down. I can imagine you all pressed up against your front room windows watching out for the Postman

I expect it will go VERY quiet over the weekend when you are all building I can almost hear the clicking of tools

Then explode next week with flight reports

Hold tight

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03-06-2008 12:49 PM  10 years agoPost 828
Droid

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Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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Then explode next week with flight reports
Then report next week with exploding flights.

Has Mac_Mushroom been slapped on the wrists??? Why the gagging?

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03-06-2008 12:51 PM  10 years agoPost 829
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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Thx for the tip.

Its the same clutch so I bet you need to do the same.

I do have a question for the JR reps or experienced JR builders out there (are you listening? )

1. Gear mesh - The manual explains it but maybe my english isn't that good. Basically what you need to do is to put a piece of paper between the pinion and the main gear and tight the clutch bearing block down. After that you remove the piece of paper and check if the gear mesh up without binding or ruff spots. You do the same between the autorotation gear and the tail gear. Did I get that right? How about the mesh between the tail output gear and tail output shaft? same procedure or not?

2. As long as one keeps the clutch bearing block and the tail output case loose between the frames, can one tight everything down on a glass table to get the frames true? I don't like the idea of assembling 70% of the bird and then have to remove every bolt again to loctite it and tight it down.

3. Posterior engine removal. I've been looking for an hour at the construction and my doubts is what is the best way to drop the engine for service later.

a) remove 4 screws from the landing gear, 2 screws between base plate and the beem cross member, 2 screws that hold the engine mount and 4 screws that hold the fan shroud (in this scenario you should be able to drop out the engine still attached to the base plate with muffler and all

b) remove 4 screws for the fan shroud, remove muffler (2 screws), remove 4 screws from engine block and drop it. Although this involves less 2 screws, you need to remove the muffler which is always a pain, especiall if you use epoxy or RTV to seal it.

4. Governor mount. What is the stock distance between the governor mount and the clutch? Is it adjustable?

5. Flybar ratio. The manual doesn't shed any light on this. The recommended setting is the outer hole in the seesaw. Is that for nimble or stable settings? 1:1 or 0:7 ratio?

6. mixer arms on the blade grips. Once again the outer hole is recommended. What does the inner hole do? Increase colective travel only? Change flybar ratio?

7. Per manual, the distance on the servo arms is 27mm. The only way to achieve that on a futaba system is by using the middle discs which have marks for 12.5mm and 15mm. I guess one can achieve the perfect distance by putting a JR horn on top of them and drill the holes but the main concern is if one will need to cut the disc at the fron so the ball links don't hit the discs. Any experience on that?

8.How do you adjust the A Arm link length once it is build in? I suppose you will need to adjust it to get simetrical movement up and downwards but I don't see an easy way of adjusting the link because of the almost inacessible screw that holds the link from beneath.

9. Swash leveling tool. I have one that is great but for the 600N (120 ccpm). I wonder if one could use it on the vibe swash to get a perfectly level swash too. Any ideas from other JR 140 ccpm swashes?

I think thats all for now.

Thx

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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03-06-2008 12:54 PM  10 years agoPost 830
steverobertsuk

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London, England

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John

I started building our kits last night and the manual does show to loctite the pinion gear to the bearing block, but I found that it was a nice snug fit so should be good to go!

Steve

Team JR, Motors & Rotors, OptiPower

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03-06-2008 01:06 PM  10 years agoPost 831
epc2

rrVeteran

Miami , Fl./S.Domingo.

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MacMan ,

Can you please confirm if the weight advertised it's dry or wet?? this is the only thing I don't like about it.8.25 it's a pound heavier than a light T600 or a Knight 3d

Tks,

epc2.

Team My Wallet.

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03-06-2008 01:09 PM  10 years agoPost 832
Droid

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Deep down in the Southwest- UK

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I started building our kits last night and the manual does show to loctite the pinion gear to the bearing block, but I found that it was a nice snug fit so should be good to go!
I wouldn't, you'll get the death rattle..... All bearings need to be bearing mounted to metal components.

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03-06-2008 01:17 PM  10 years agoPost 833
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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yeah. I have the habit of loctiting any bearings in their metal beds. None has failed till this day.

Any input on my questions?

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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03-06-2008 01:20 PM  10 years agoPost 834
colsy

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Cambridge, UK

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. Gear mesh - The manual explains it but maybe my english isn't that good. Basically what you need to do is to put a piece of paper between the pinion and the main gear and tight the clutch bearing block down. After that you remove the piece of paper and check if the gear mesh up without binding or ruff spots. You do the same between the autorotation gear and the tail gear. Did I get that right? How about the mesh between the tail output gear and tail output shaft? same procedure or not?
I never bother, always do it by feel.

col.

Only Quote From Experience.

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03-06-2008 01:32 PM  10 years agoPost 835
Dr Lodge

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Guildford, Surrey - UK

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Me too, get the gear mesh having the minimum amount of play - you want some but a little as possible. Crown take off gears are a little different, they need to be fitted without play but not "tight".

Vibe 90, Vibe 50, Vigor CS x2,
Dyna-x, Knight 503D, Logo 10,
TRex 500, Furion, Gaui EP200

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03-06-2008 03:24 PM  10 years agoPost 836
DS 8717

rrProfessor

Here wishing i was somewhere else

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This heli looks like it's beggin for a YS 61.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE..IF YOU LIVE IT RIGHT THATS ALL YOU NEED

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03-06-2008 03:29 PM  10 years agoPost 837
tchavei

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Portugal

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Actually I was thinking about that... the heli is begging for a YS91ST in my opinion. if the paper width 600N can hold that up, the vibe should hold it up even better. Only problem is where to get a 11T pinion to bring the ratio down to something more suitable for the YS91?

Another option would be a 90T main gear with a 11T pinion (8.18), a 82T main gear with a 10T pinion (8.2) or even a 92T with a 11T

lol Vibe50 on steroids already?

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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03-06-2008 03:32 PM  10 years agoPost 838
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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Btw, I also ordered another governor mount for the vibe so that I can mount my eagletree sensor on the other side. Will be nice to see the performance graphs during flight

Tony


--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."

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03-06-2008 03:43 PM  10 years agoPost 839
JnyD

rrNovice

Monticello, IL

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Regarding the Weight
All,

The range on the box and manual are slightly high because they were based on the prototype's weight. The production machines are nearly 1/2 lb lighter then the machines we demo'd at IRCHA last year. The production machines we've built are 7.7 lbs. Also the weight is centered lower in the production machine which improves the flip and roll rate.

FYI - The T-Rex 600N's around here weigh in from 7.3 to 7.5lbs and their box says 7lbs. We decided we would rather be honest about the weight then try to answer complaints from customers trying to reach an unrealistic weight.
JD

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03-06-2008 03:58 PM  10 years agoPost 840
DS 8717

rrProfessor

Here wishing i was somewhere else

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The 91 would be a total overpower,we put a YS61 in an EVO 50 and it was more than enough power. You could use the 8.7 gear ratio without a problem with a governor,because thats what was in the EVO 50. You could not load the EVO at all with the 61.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE..IF YOU LIVE IT RIGHT THATS ALL YOU NEED

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HomeAircraftHelicopterJR Heli Vibe 90/50, Sylphide 90, GSR260 › Vibe 50 , March , Maybe???
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