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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHIROBOOther › Evo 50 Durability.....
08-03-2007 06:02 PM  13 years ago
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Jay1

rrVeteran

Colorado Springs

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Evo 50 Durability.....
Hello all,

I am looking at getting an evo 50 but I have a few questions from you gentlemen that have this machine.

Honestly, can you guys tell me what issues you have had with this machine? Durability on the main shafts and other parts? What would I be concerned with when compared to other 50 class heli's?

Parts cost when compared to others?

Thanks!
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08-03-2007 06:24 PM  13 years ago
will47

rrNovice

hampshire england

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I have had some problems with the feathering spindle bending in flight and i still havent figured out why. Apart from that its a great machine

will
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08-03-2007 06:26 PM  13 years ago
hootowl

rrProfessor

Garnet Valley, Pa.

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This is a top of the line 50 class machine. The most important area in building these is the use of locktite in the appropriate places.

Properly built this is one of the most durable machines out there.

Parts are probably the best quality available and are very reasonably priced. They are also carried by many big online shops.

Mainshafts are under $10
Frameset is $24.99

No showstoppers in prices on these helis. You get what you pay for.
Wolves don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep
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08-03-2007 07:00 PM  13 years ago
Jay1

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Colorado Springs

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I have been told that they are ahead in the engineering of their heli's. I just wanted to see if it really worth the cost.
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08-03-2007 07:53 PM  13 years ago
Leif

rrElite Veteran

USA

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Depends if you're talking about flying or crashing.

The only two parts that seem to be problematic are the stock plastic radius block and spindles. It is highly recommended to replace the stock radius block with the metal one (about $25 upgrade).

Spindles tend to bend pretty easily on this machine. It's especially easy to do if you bounce an autorotation, really bog the head or if you let the dampers get worn to the point where the head woofs. There are harder spindles available on the market and you can also upgrade to the SD-G metal yoke which uses double-dampers. The spindle doesn't bend as easily when using the metal head.

Now if it's crashing you're talking about, the servo frame seems to break every time at the front in a crash. I don't consider "crash proof" to be a required feature of any heli, but it is a bloody pain to replace that part since you need to remove all the servos AND disassemble the collective lever to replace it. That's one part I wouldn't mind seeing re-engineered.

Leif
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08-03-2007 08:16 PM  13 years ago
Jay1

rrVeteran

Colorado Springs

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Great information on the servo tray. I know that there is no such thing as crash proof but we just want something that can take a beating just a little without having to do major over hauling.

I am just trying to put together some information to see what type of problems I am willing to deal with for the exchange of quality flights and too see if this is one I want to seriously consider. THanks
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08-04-2007 11:32 AM  13 years ago
Shiro Muji

rrVeteran

Japan

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the parts are really durable except the stock seesaw and feathering spindle. I tried to replace the plastic yoke to metal one, so far no problem with the spindle maybe because it has two dampers on both sides in it.
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08-04-2007 11:45 AM  13 years ago
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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I'm repairing a Evo50 from a nose first crash:

machine has metal yoke but I lost:

servo frame
battery tray
seesaw
flybar support

plus the contents of the crash kit.

I definitely agree w/ the 'I'd like to see the servo &battery tray
modified' statement. it's somewhat annoying.
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08-04-2007 01:42 PM  13 years ago
dgshaffer

rrElite Veteran

New Jersey

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A couple of tips on building and maintaining your EVO.

1) Keep the battery pushed as far back as you can get it on the top of the receiver tray. Secure it with a cinch type Velcro strap going around the furthest point towards the rear as you can.

2) Don't over stuff the receiver compartment as this will pre-stress the tab on the front of the servo mount.

3) Get a short piece of aluminum angle and glue it on top of the tap to beef it up.

4) Use a CF base plate under the frame.

5) Put a stiffener in between the lower boom supports to prevent the bosses from breaking off.

If you take these steps you can crash hard enough to break the landing skids and the servo mount and main frames will be left intact.

Shop at RCpowersupply.com for all of your parts. Main shaft= $6.99, Frame sets= $20.99, Crash kit $19.99, Tail boom= $7.25

Use only Quick UK spindles. They are much harder than the Hirobo spindles.
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08-04-2007 01:50 PM  13 years ago
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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I put the liion battery and regulator in the 'compartment' and the
rx on the shelf/tab but in this case, the machine did a nice nose-dive
into the ground

agree on the crossmembers above and below the fuel tank for the boom
supports.

use plastic wire ties to attach the landing gear.

use nylon screws to attach the canopy standoffs (I use the metal ones).
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08-04-2007 01:53 PM  13 years ago
dgshaffer

rrElite Veteran

New Jersey

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a nice nose-dive into the ground

6) Bring a shovel
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08-04-2007 01:57 PM  13 years ago
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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yea, really.

Actually, what happened was that the 2500 NiMh pack for my 9Z just
died on me. it had just come off the charger and within 3 minutes,
i got the low voltage alarm. I got the machine back to within 10 ft
of landing and battery voltage went too low and machine just nosed in.

I didn't have that 2500 pack long enough for it to do that so I'm
kinda annoyed and I've always treated it right.
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