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HomeScale✈️AircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › Fuselage painting question, please help.
08-02-2007 04:58 AM  13 years ago
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deepdiver8055

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Tallahassee, Fl.

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Fuselage painting question, please help.
I have a scale fuse and am ready to paint it. The fuse is the 500D by ThunderTiger and I picked it up from a guy for 50 bucks brand new... he didnt want it and got over his head but my problem is this. He sprayed the fuse with "Kilz Primer". It looks good and is sanded down and smooth. the primer is tough to scrape off so it stuck to the factory paint very well. I want to know if anyone can tell me what type of paint I can use that will be compatible with this primer and fuel proof at the same time if any.

I have always used "LustreKote" by topflite but after seeing this fuse for 50 bucks with kilz primer I had to snag it. there has to be something compatible with it.

I looked at the kilz brand of paint because the fuse has kilz primer but I'm affraid of clear coating with the wrong brand. Doe's someone know what might be compatible with glow fuel?
If someone can help me with this I would really appreciate it as I don't want to spray something only to ruin the paintjob from glow fuel.

Thanks,
~Alan
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08-02-2007 06:23 PM  13 years ago
MichaelP

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Northumberland UK

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If it were me I would rub down the primer that is on the fuselage or remove it with thinners and re-prime with an acid etch primer followed by a two pac paint then polished up with a polishing compound. There is no need to use clear as two pac paint is not affected by oil residue.
Hope this helps you.
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08-02-2007 08:32 PM  13 years ago
fritzthecat

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Virginia Beach, VA

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Kilz primer - according to their web page - is excellent for use with enamel paints. Unfortunately, enamel is not fuel proof.
I'd paint the fuse with whatever enamel spraypaint you want and then clearcoat it.
The only clearcoat in a can that doesn't yellow and is readily available is Lustrcoat. It is, however, really nasty and aggressive paint. If you use it you need to let the color paint dry for at least 2 to 3 weeks and be super careful using it.
Better is automotive 2 part clear. It's expensive and toxic so you may want to hook up with an autobodyshop. They will shoot a fuse with flex clear for about U$100 to U$200. Again, no clear until color has cured for at least 3 weeks.

Fritz

'Send Money, Women and Guns!'
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08-03-2007 10:50 PM  13 years ago
deepdiver8055

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Tallahassee, Fl.

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Got it worked out
Thanks for all the advice. I experimented on some scrap and here's what I came up with. Remember I said the fuse was covered with "Kilz Primer"?... well I went to wally-world (wal-mart) and purchased some of the Kilz "Casual Colors" and found out that top-flite "LustreKote Crystal Clear" works with this paint.

Now here's the nice thing about the casual colors. They pray out of that can very smooth and the paint is actually more like spray paint coming out of an airbrush rather then a can. You can even control the amount of spray just by using certain pressure on the button and still very smooth. It is really a nice paint to use, I am very impressed by this brand of paint and I think I'll make it part of my inventory in the future.

This is the ThunderTiger 500md out of the box fuselage which it was painted in the green scheme originally... well the ole boy painted it in kilz primer (white) and then I took it over.

I sanded it down more, cleaned it with MEK and then applied the base coat with kilz casual colors "ALAMEDA" (tan) and then taped with the purple low stick painters tape. I then applied the kilz casual colors "CHOCOLATE" for the camo pattern, let it set for 24 hrs then hit it with 2 cotes of lustrekote crystal clear.

This paint also dries very quick too just like the lustrekote brand of paint and comes in about 25 different colors from what I've seen on their website.

Next is my custom made split exhuast which will channel the exhaust out both pipes on the fuse.

In the future I will probably cut off the stock location of exhaust pipes and open up the rear and run the exhaust out the very back like the newer model 500's.

I also raised the entire model by making new mounts which gave me two very important features... 1)It allowed me to have longer looking struts and 2), it gave me a better appearence for the rotor blade making them closer to the fuse instead of way up over the fuse like some cell phone tower! yuk I hate that look on a 500!! so now they look closer and more realistic for a 2 bladed rotorhead.

Not bad for a 50.00 investment hey?

Go out and get some of this paint, try it on some scrap and you'll see, it's very nice paint to use! and it's compatible with LustreKote Clear!! whooohooo!!.

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