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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterSynergy R/COther › Pushrod lengths??
08-02-2007 03:25 AM  13 years ago
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jakeg1999

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San Diego, CA

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Pushrod lengths??
Things are going ok, I really do love this bird, but the head is driving me nuts. It flies good, but I have interaction at full pitch with full aileron...I have just spent the past 3 hours messing with all my linkages...I have started from what the manual recommends and I can't seem to get it right. Could someone with the Hyper grips and washout arms be so kind as to provide me with their linkage measurements including the servo links. I am running 13mm arms...Thank you so much, oh, and for some reason no matter what I do, I cannot get more than +11/-11????
Hopefully I can get them tonight so I can fly in the morning...
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08-02-2007 05:31 AM  13 years ago
jakeg1999

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San Diego, CA

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Ok, after much research, it looks as though I got most things smoothed out. Still only 11 degrees in each way, but I think that's it for the Hyper Levers, unless I am doing something wrong, which is a strong possibility. Also I am getting binding with the pitch links at full aileron, which is right at 7 degrees...Well out to the field for some more airtime in the morning. I swear this heli is making me fly better.
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08-02-2007 11:35 AM  13 years ago
Awamori

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Minot, ND

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I'm getting +/- 12.5 right now with the hyperlinks, and really think I could get more. Later tonight I will messure links for you but I know they are very close to stock right out of the manual.
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08-02-2007 12:22 PM  13 years ago
cJ

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Eagle Point OR

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jakeg
I have your setup with grips and levers. I would strongly recommend getting a bag of long balls part#107-108 and replacing the short balls on your bell mixers that connects to your seesaw. Also you will want to replace the short link on your seesaw. You will need to remove some of the threads to clear your fly bar so that it may move freely (remember only just enough to clear. Don't take too much ). Also you will want to re-use the brass spacer that you are using with your existing short link mounted to the seesaw. From what I have read Synergy is making this a standard on future kits. What this will give you is more cyclic/collective response with less swash movement to get the needed 12+ degrees (collective). I have mine set up with just less than 13(collective) degrees and 10 degrees of cyclic throw. You would think by doing this you would lose stability, but for some reason I along with many other guys have not noticed this. By the way I am running in the middle hole on the seesaw and running the stock paddles and short fly bar.

Good luck,
cJ
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08-02-2007 03:12 PM  13 years ago
jakeg1999

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San Diego, CA

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Well I have the balls on backorder from Rick's, which Nathan said he hopes to get more of later this week. I am a bit confused on this part "Also you will want to replace the short link on your seesaw. You will need to remove some of the threads to clear your fly bar so that it may move freely (remember only just enough to clear. Don't take too much )." What do you mean by replace the short link? Do I need to get a different one? As far as removing threads, that's a little unclear too as if I can remember correctly I have about 7mm spacing between the links??? Maybe this will make more sense when I replace the balls???
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08-02-2007 04:12 PM  13 years ago
RyanW

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Edmond, Oklahoma

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I think what Chris is saying by short link is the control ball with the spacer underneath that is mounted on the see-saw. This needs to be replaced with a the control ball that has the stand off (107-108). By taking the threads off, he means that 107-108 is a bit too long and may touch the flybar when it is screwed into the see-saw.

From a geometrical stand point, installing the longer control ball on the blade grip mixer results in two things. For a given collective input from the swashplate, the blade grip moves further than it does in stock form. This happens because the blade grip location is further from the pivot point. The second thing that happens is your cyclic controls will fell a bit more stable. This comes from the new location of the input point on the blade mixer, which is further from the pivot point. Hope that adds a little bit of clarity.
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08-02-2007 08:46 PM  13 years ago
jakeg1999

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San Diego, CA

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That definately helps......it now makes sense....Just got back from the field, and even though the head is a bit challenging, and I still have some minor friction points, I still can't believe how locked-in this heli is...I am still learning some basic 3d manuevers, and am focusing on inverted flight and hovering, and I must say that I really think this heli is helping me to get better. I flew it and my Raptor 50 with a Kasama head today, and what a huge difference as far as inverted flight. I realize the size differences, but I had to really work to get my raptor to do some nice smooth inverted circuits, where as the n9 was smooth as silk...Since I set my pitch last night to +12/-10 (the max I could get), I could feel that extra degree at the end of my auto. I still would really like to get 13-14 just for my throttle hold, but I can live with what I got now...Today was the first day in awhile where I actually get to do some house work after flying instead of getting sucked in to tuning and tweaking.....the wife is gonna like that...Well thanks everyone so far for the advice and help, the heli is a little finicky but once she is dialed in, it really does fly like it's on rails....I love it....
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