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Home✈️Aircraft🚁Helicoptere-MikadoOther › My Mini Logo5003D review
07-30-2007 06:08 AM  13 years ago
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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IMO Mikado should've made mod.7 for the 500 and mod 1 for the 600.
I can't argue that at all, I would have liked to have seen a 120-130ish tooth Mod 1.0 gear for sure. The Mod 1 gears on my L14 were a huge improvement over running Mod .7 gears on it. I do hope there is a good range of pinions for Mod .7 and that the metal mounts etc come soon for sure.
...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...
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07-30-2007 06:10 AM  13 years ago
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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I guess I'm a little concerened at all the talk I hear about 0.5 main gears stripping. Is this a design flaw, the result of overpowering or what? Do you team guys invision shifting to 0.7 gears (herringbone) when available or is this something Mikado may want to address?
They are coming out with a metal mount, as well as shown at 3DM they already have been working on a third bearing mount as well.
...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...
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07-30-2007 06:55 AM  13 years ago
caseyjholmes

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Portland, Oregon

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If they have mod .7 gears ment for the L14, but they fit the L10 and L500..

Does this not mean that mod 1 gears for the L14 will fit the L10 and L500 as well?

A metal motor mount would be a big help. My motor hasn't moved yet, but there is a slight distortion to the plastic from the screws.
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07-30-2007 07:07 AM  13 years ago
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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The mod .7 gears (138T) may work however being smaller than the 200T L10 gear that would mean more cutting back of the stock plastic motor mount and this obviously would be not possible at all with metal mount unless the movement range is more back than plastic, which I highly doubt it will be. The Mod 1.0 gears (96T) are even smaller in size than the mod .7 138T making use with them borderline with plastic ones, than of course do not forget there is nothing out there right now in the right kv range for 6S to use Mod 1.0 anyways due to the ratio and HS etc.... Danny J used Mod 1.0 96T gear on his 6003D but that was a 10S setup which is entirely different......Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...
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07-30-2007 09:55 AM  13 years ago
jetkuo2

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LA, US. and Taiwan

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Oh God! Logo has easy stripping main gear again? They must last this trandition? If this is proven ture then shouldn't they have found out this in their developing stage? Should I cancel my 500 order immediately? The main gear is very expensive!
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07-30-2007 03:29 PM  13 years ago
caseyjholmes

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Portland, Oregon

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It's not the gear. I can't strip mine even on a fast spool up on 6s with a CC ESC and messed up throttle endpoints in normal mode
It's the motor mount. It can easily distort if the screws are cranked down good to where the motor will stay in place. This can lead to the motor slipping, and stripping a gear.

I still havn't had the problem yet on mine..
The motor mount has flexed the tiniest bit. Once I Saw it, I started using extra loctite on the motor screws and more losely snugging them down. I also switched to thicker knurled washers for the motor screws. (so the motor has more grip on the motor mount without the screws being so tight)

This small quark will be non existant when an aluminum motor mount is released.
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07-30-2007 03:55 PM  13 years ago
epc2

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Miami , Fl./S.Domingo.

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Yeah we really need the metal mount but what bothers me is that the new mount is 1/2 the size of the old one and almost double the price ($37vs$64), doesn't make sense IMO.

epc2.
Team My Wallet.
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07-30-2007 04:09 PM  13 years ago
rerazor

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Mich.

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Maybe its twice as good.
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07-30-2007 05:09 PM  13 years ago
Surfanarchist

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Alexandria, VA

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I thought the aluminum motor mount was released? It's listed in the manual as an up-grade part. Oh well, I would imagine extra wide washers on the motor mount should help. Or maybe (i just thought of this one) taking a blank 4" X 4" metal junction box cover (electrical supply or home depot) cut down to the size of the motor mount with the 1/2" knock out removed from center to allow the pinion and motor shaft to pass and holes drilled for the motor mount screws would distribute the torque all across the motor mount and be rigid as hell. Might add more weight then most people want though.
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07-31-2007 04:11 AM  13 years ago
jetkuo2

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LA, US. and Taiwan

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Thank you guys, if the strppid gear is sure caused by the motor mount, Mikado is still to be blamed for this, this is not new to them.Some Many Logo 10 owners have simialr reports already. Especially they are claiming Logo heli set again new heli standard, and is highest calss in the world and they charge us for Geremany kit price. They cannot let us to pay for the additional expenisve metal motor mount to resolve this thing. Especially the metal mount is no high-tech stuff at all. A lot of small firm can do that and at same good quality too. Hopefully there will be after-maket main shaft(solid is OK, not hurt), motor mount and everthing come out soon!
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07-31-2007 04:14 AM  13 years ago
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Using a wider beefier washer now the area being spread out now seems to hold the motor firmly. This will now work fine, I would suggest as mentioned by Casey as well to do the same by using a bigger washer or small plate of some sort to distribute the force against more of the plate, be well. Yes the ultimate remedy down the road for any motor will be the alu mount imho as it was for the 14. But if you ar e careful when tightening it down on plastic mount there is no issue....Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...
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07-31-2007 06:22 AM  13 years ago
caseyjholmes

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Portland, Oregon

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Thank you guys, if the strppid gear is sure caused by the motor mount, Mikado is still to be blamed for this, this is not new to them.Some Many Logo 10 owners have simialr reports already. Especially they are claiming Logo heli set again new heli standard, and is highest calss in the world and they charge us for Geremany kit price. They cannot let us to pay for the additional expenisve metal motor mount to resolve this thing. Especially the metal mount is no high-tech stuff at all. A lot of small firm can do that and at same good quality too. Hopefully there will be after-maket main shaft(solid is OK, not hurt), motor mount and everthing come out soon!
I believe the problem (not saying this is what happened in Shawns' case) may be from over tightening the motor screws.
I have not had the motor slip on my helicopter, nor any gear failures.
(even in a crash)
The screws don't need to be so tight that the plastic is squished. I still also run the L103D with a stock plastic motor plate and no problems.

Add extra loctite, tighten the screw snug, and then go another half a turn or so. Using knurled washers helps bigtime. I made my knurled washers by smacking them on some concrete with a pattern faced hammer.

I installed the hardened mainshaft on my 500 the other day. You might want to look into that before a solid shaft.

Alu motor mounts are coming very soon.
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07-31-2007 12:01 PM  13 years ago
chadtyro

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Dowagiac, MI

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This small quark will be non existant when an aluminum motor mount is released.
For almost $500 a problem like this was supposed to be "non-existant" out-of-the box. What happened to the special plastic that was stronger than carbon fiber/metal. Now we need metal. This and the bearing block should come standard in the future kits since Mikado charges extra for "quality" and "design". With the new expensive main gear, one would think they would've protected it to begin with.
Chad
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07-31-2007 02:24 PM  13 years ago
lloyd

rrKey Veteran

Perth,Australia (South African)

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And also a main blade holder....................

lloyd
electrics DONT need to auto
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07-31-2007 03:31 PM  13 years ago
jrvander

rrVeteran

Camp Foster, Okinawa japan

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Could it be flex in the frame causing the gears to strip?
Here's a thought; On my L14 and L10, the motor plate and lower bearing block are in the same piece of metal which provides great support and alignment. On the new 500/600 frames, the lower bearing block and motor plate are seperate pieces. Could this be a source of flex that might be damaging the herringbone gears? When a big powerful motor is turning out 2000+ watts it might be heaving just a tad on the plastic motor mount. If the mesh is set to zero lash, even a very little play might be enough to eat them up. I'm just speculating aloud, but I think it's an interesting question.

- Jon
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07-31-2007 03:34 PM  13 years ago
rerazor

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Mich.

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Can we get some close up pics of the motor plate/third bearing mods from someone?

Good point Jrv.
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07-31-2007 05:10 PM  13 years ago
caseyjholmes

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Portland, Oregon

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For almost $500 a problem like this was supposed to be "non-existant" out-of-the box. What happened to the special plastic that was stronger than carbon fiber/metal. Now we need metal. This and the bearing block should come standard in the future kits since Mikado charges extra for "quality" and "design". With the new expensive main gear, one would think they would've protected it to begin with.
Like I said, I still havn't had a problem with it stock, out of the box I don't need a metal motor mount.
Could it be flex in the frame causing the gears to strip?
Nope. This frame does not flex.
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07-31-2007 05:31 PM  13 years ago
Daniel Jetschin

rrApprentice

Germany

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What motor u usin casey ?

Dan
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07-31-2007 05:35 PM  13 years ago
caseyjholmes

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Portland, Oregon

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1910 1y on 23T for now, and I think that new hacker should be here very soon.

what is the third bearing block I keep hearing about?
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07-31-2007 05:51 PM  13 years ago
quattrokid73

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Huntingdon Valley, PA, USA

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my hacker 1100 is on the wayAero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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