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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerial Photography and Video › Yet another Slow Stick For AP Thread
01-17-2009 04:46 PM  9 years agoPost 981
Burnt Offering

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Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

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OK Savage, I got your pictures. Two things come to mind when looking at them. You have to avoid sudden wing dips which are common when its a little windy. But mostly what I think I see is engine vibration. Next time you go up. Set up your shoot. Just before you snap your pictures try to keep your wings level with as little movement as possible. Then Chop your power completely off. THEN take your pictures. This will eliminate any vibration from the engine. Also, make SURE your zoom is out as far as it goes.

Dan, good question about the aerocoat. I'm not sure. Along those lines I have wondered if you could do the heat shrink wrap on foam too. You know, like a smaller version of the ones people use to store their boats and RV's in the winter. I'm not sure if there would be any less drag or not, but it would shure give you a nice smooth finsh.

American by Birth, Alaskan by the grace of God!!

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01-17-2009 07:13 PM  9 years agoPost 982
Burnt Offering

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Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

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OK Daniel (the slayer) As promised I am starting on my SS for stills today. However, I am breaking away from protocol, like WAY away. What I mean by that is this will not be anything like I have done with a Stock Slow Stick to date. I am breaking away from my comfort zone and am going to impelment a few much needed upgrades. I will be using single piece CF rods from the local hobby shop for all wing reinforcments as opposed to the rods that come with the kit. Also, and this is the clincher. This will be a twin boom design. In fact this will be a replica of my Aurora only scaled way down to size and weight. I am doing this to accomdate a Park 480 with a 10 inch prop sitting right down even with the airframe. Also, this will help accomodate a forward facing camera. I will still be using all Slow Stick foam parts. I am going to get started on the airframe today and will post pictures as I progress. I am getting pretty excited.

Kevo

American by Birth, Alaskan by the grace of God!!

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01-17-2009 08:13 PM  9 years agoPost 983
theslayer

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Munich-Germany

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Looking forward to seeing it, even if it isn't the damn straight original, it will give me an idea about it...

Way to go..
Please upload pics somewhere where they won't vanish that fast again, perhaps all together on your website

Daniel

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01-17-2009 09:19 PM  9 years agoPost 984
Tonic

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Des Moines

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Well Kevo, I was just checking back in to see if anyone had any ideas for my front mount SS with a 480. So I read your post and see your working on the same thing, but I'm not going down to a 10' prop.
So I was thinking about getting started or should I wait to see your concept first, that's my dilemma.

Tonic

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01-17-2009 11:50 PM  9 years agoPost 985
Guido44

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Near Chicago, Illinois

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Hi Guys,

I did a little research.

Just for information sharing purposes, covering Styrofoam wings CAN be done.

If you want an iron on coating you can use Aerokote LITE, or any other of the brands you prefer. As long as they are the LITE material. They have a lower temp requirement. There's also another covering called Solite

If your interested, and want to read up a little:
RC Groups Link

It would make it look pretty too. lol

dan

http://www.danfarinastudios.com/

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01-17-2009 11:56 PM  9 years agoPost 986
Envision

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MI

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The best way to use a heat shrink material is to have a carbon tube front and rear, you can use the iron to set front, rear and both ends, then heat shrink the middle. I usually leave the corners loose for air to escape. If you have a carbon rod used like ribs from front to back you can shrink the bottom too. If you shrink without support let me know if the airfoil changes shape.

Troy

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01-17-2009 11:57 PM  9 years agoPost 987
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Hi Savage

I did reply but it wont send it back to you. Then I realised that because I'm away from home and using my cell phone as a modem my out going smtp address is wrong. Cant remember what it is so I will just paste my answer on this thread. Hope no one minds :O

Hey thanx for the nice comments on my website guys, from this thread and PM's. It is a work in progress and we keep trying to improve and update it

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01-18-2009 12:02 AM  9 years agoPost 988
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Hey Savage

They do look grainy. Have you done any editing to the pictures like brightening it? It almost looks like it has been brightened or had compression of some sort.

The ISO is a good place to start, 200 is fine with an SLR but I would keep it at 100 or less for a point and shoot cameras because of their smaller CCD sensors. It does not look like an ISO grain problem here as that tends to be more in shadow areas but I find a difference with my Nikon P5100 12MP between ISO 100 and 200 and would suggest you check if your camera differs. I shoot at 1/500 in calm conditions and bad light and 1/1000 in windy conditions. Are these manual settings or has it been shot in auto?

Also be careful when taking the images off the camera and taking it between programs. If you transfer the image from an editing program or from one program to another and losing information because of things like a compression or size settings while you saving then the information is lost. By this I mean if the image comes off the camera at 4MB make sure it does not at any point while transferring to editing programs or between programs that this is not made smaller at some point through compression or sizing. If it is made back to a 4MB afterwards it won’t help as the information is already lost and the new large saved image is missing information.

The last thing would be to check the camera settings
I have heard the Image stabilizing is not good but I have personally never tried it, mine is always off
Check that the size and quality is set to its highest
I leave things like noise reduction off or any fancy gimmicks that the camera offers. (you can do this afterwards with professional editing software if needed)

It doesn’t look like a blur from motion unless some high frequency is making the camera not operate properly

Jason

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01-18-2009 12:28 AM  9 years agoPost 989
Envision

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MI

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My response went back through email.

The image will not loose information copying, saving to another spot or moving around. The only way it looses information is editing while in jpg format then resaving, each edit will slightly decrease the quality. The way to prevent data loss is to edit as a tif (open, save as tif, edit, save as jpg).

Troy

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01-18-2009 12:57 AM  9 years agoPost 990
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Hi Tonic

Really glad you enjoyed those pics

What is it that you dont like about the pusher? I was concerned that it might land faster because of the lack of additional propwash over the wing but I also didnt want propwash over the camera and decided pusher is what it needed to be. They fly very well. Both tractor or pusher will do well aerodynamically. Pusher just suits most fwd facing camera needs and for me the safety of not having a front prop makes a difference to. I have tried so many combinations and am still trying to find ways of improving performance for my camera ships. Strangely enough making them look better is a big 1 to. Making things look better while reducing my 30g (1oz) over weight is challenging. I think my original design was good but making it work practically in the field has been an evolution and a lot of changes. I think you should carry on with your design and dont worry if it isnt the perfect ship from day 1, it will evolve to suit you way of working. Plus its great to see others creative ideas

Jason

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01-18-2009 01:08 AM  9 years agoPost 991
talk the torque

rrApprentice

SA

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Hey Envision

Didnt wanna be to harsh on the Alaskian dude so I chose Passion :P

I am working in JPEG for most of my clients. I have reasons for doing this. I have seen it happen in Tiff as well. Going from 1 progam to another with a pit stop inbetween. User error but still an error

Ok I've typed enuf, I'm tired... Good Night

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01-18-2009 04:42 AM  9 years agoPost 992
Burnt Offering

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Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

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OK guys, I have started the build and I have it in detail on my website, at least what I have so far. I am pretty excited with some of the ideas I am coming up with. Let me know your feed back and cunstructive critisizm. Hey Jason! You are going to need to check it out really close buddy! I have something just for you in there!
Anyway, enough brainstorming for one night. Check it out here.

http://www.pcmdak.com/pcmdplanes.html

American by Birth, Alaskan by the grace of God!!

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01-18-2009 11:52 AM  9 years agoPost 993
theslayer

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Munich-Germany

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Damn, i love the thread already, great ideas there... just a bit angry i bought aluminium tubing in the same size as the original boom, and not a bit smaller oh well, there will be a second build... keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing more

Daniel

P.s you are very strict to jason, arent you

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01-18-2009 03:31 PM  9 years agoPost 994
Guido44

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Near Chicago, Illinois

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Great job Kevin,

I wanted to share some photos of my set up also.

Check out my pics of the tail. I'm doing something similar, sort of. I bought a box of arrow shafts, I'm using those instead of your 8 X 7 mm square tubes. (I think your tubes might with stand more holes drilled than my arrow shafts.)

I plan to do the same for the wing. I'd like to be able to have 2 sets of wings. A SS set, and the Styrofoam set. Just in case.

You can see the small 4-40 bolts to hold her in place. I can slide the tail back maybe 3 or inches if need be. I like the small bolts, it makes things easy to replace or modify.

I also braced the vertical stabilizers with left over push rods and connectors for my SS kits .

I'm picking up 2 more SS kits from my local hobby shop on Tues. I'm going to go ahead and make my wings a little WIDER. lol (the extra hardware will be great to have as well)

Check out my Gallery. First 5 photos.

I also plan to make mine a pusher. With the battery and camera I should be able to get the CG correct.

Constructive ideas please. Thanks,

dan

http://www.danfarinastudios.com/

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01-18-2009 03:50 PM  9 years agoPost 995
savage 40

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oroville ca

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is an APC 11x7 prop good for the stick? I had been running 11x4 .. 480 eflite, 30amp esc..

www.atc70decals.com www.signspeeweedesigns.com

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01-18-2009 04:01 PM  9 years agoPost 996
Envision

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MI

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Adjustable wings? I guess I forgot to mention that part, all of my wings are adjustable. Oops, Sorry. Maybe I should also mention that all of my weight is adjustable too.

Drilling holes really weakens the shafts, maybe I've been over engineering?

Troy

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01-18-2009 04:39 PM  9 years agoPost 997
savage 40

rrApprentice

oroville ca

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just a word of caution.. went to the school near my house.. took off. There are some High voltage lines.. regular ones on wood poles.. I was up 100ft? but when the wires got between me and the plane. line of sight, not really between maybe 10 before line of sight I lose signal (2.4) plane goes down start to pick up signal as she goes under the wires but as i go back up,, lines get between me and the SS she goes down in a field.. lesson learned! broke the fues, lost the wheels, bent the shaft..
When i go to Home depot what exactly do i ask for square stock? everytime i look they can't find it.. It must have taken this shot when it all started going haywire..

www.atc70decals.com www.signspeeweedesigns.com

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01-18-2009 04:46 PM  9 years agoPost 998
Guido44

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Near Chicago, Illinois

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My Home Depot doesn't seem to have it either. I don't think all the HD's stock the same materials.

Maybe try Lowes? If you have one.

dan

http://www.danfarinastudios.com/

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01-18-2009 05:17 PM  9 years agoPost 999
Burnt Offering

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Winter Wonder Land, Wasilla Alaska

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Hey Troy, I knew you had adjustable wings, you and I had actually talked about that before on Skype. The thing that is different on mine is that my wings will slide super easy. Using the stock 1 inch pieces over the 8x7mm tubes made the mounts slide so easy that I don't think I will even have to take the wings off to move them. I could always move the wing mounts on a normal SS but it was VERY difficult. You are right however on the drilling holes. Thats one of the big reasons I don't like CF. But I'm hoping to keep the holes fairly small. We will see.

Dan your plane looks fantastic buddy. I see one potentialy huge problem on your horizon though. Beleive it or not that Park 480 has enough torque to take that CF tube you have it mounted on and twist is like a candy cane when you give it full throttle. You are for sure going to have to reinforce that somehow.

Savage, that is a real eye opener for me. I think I will be sticking with 72mz for my TX. I have on countless occasions flown not only over but UNDER powerlines. And if that aint enough out in my test field I have actually flown over the top of wires, turned in and set an approach, and landed under the same wires with 72 mz and never even had a glitch. What happened to you kinda confirms me sticking with 72mz at least for now.

This is the aluminum I get from Home Depot. It is actually larger than the stock SS boom, I just grind it down with an upright belt sander. I have looked everywhere for the stock boom in aluminum and have never found it. This works fine, just requires a little extra work.

American by Birth, Alaskan by the grace of God!!

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01-18-2009 05:18 PM  9 years agoPost 1000
savage 40

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oroville ca

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I should've known this would happen, did it another time but i was parrellel to some wires (different spot) . i thought maybe it was just because I was along side them it was a long electric field.. Dang it!

www.atc70decals.com www.signspeeweedesigns.com

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