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Zaneman007
rrElite Veteran Texas - USA |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
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Yug
rrMaster UK. Herts |
One other slight issue was the torque tube - this was a little bent such that with the tail, tube and boom assembly you could see the torque tube out by about 1.5mm. A couple of hours gently bending fixed that ![]() One thing that has been great fun is when it came to installing electrics, I realised it would be possible to hide virtually all the wires, so I did ![]() The battery is the only other issue - I'd intended on using a Relion 5200, however it won't fit so I'll either use a 2600 or split the pack and mount in 2 separate locations. And one other thing..... I came to fit the clunk grommet and nipple; the grommet kept getting pushed into the tank but I eventually won. I'll be using this conventional setup to start with, but am intending to use a crank pressurised system with a fuel magnet and Webra regulator. |
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tchavei
rrProfessor Portugal |
![]() -------------------- "Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..." |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
![]() You are correct as it compromises the geometry as I measured 29.5/30mm between the balls on the levers.As above in my earlier post the servo horns in pics on CD I reckon are at 13mm..I'm not finding any problem with the 12mm although I don't like it much.On the TT I backed it out about 1mm to allow for a little expansion/contraction as per my previous TT heli'sBattery, I fitted a relion 2 cell pack as my 2500 flightpower lipo was a little long.Wiring is all inside the frames ![]() |
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Yug
rrMaster UK. Herts |
![]() The very 1st thing I did in the build was to sand down the frames because the edges were sharp. Regards the swash horns, I'm using all discs to minimise flex. I may try to figure out a way of lifting the canopy mounting to aid clearence with the horns. The balls were matched exctly to the align arms which I'd like to maintain. If you want to use a lower ball radies, then you'll have to use a trapezoid arrangement. Suck it and see. I used the RL20 and the sensor was eventually fitted using the smallest metal mount and drilling a couple of holes in the frames to secure it. It is a tight fit between the tail servo and start shaft bearing block but it looks to be OK.tchavei - Although I'm going to get the heli ( & engine run in) dialled in with a conventional muffler fuel system, I've figured out a very neat setup for the Webra reg by mounting it on the base plate. This results in the tube between the reg and carb of about 20mm. You'll just need to get a bit of aluminium to make a small bracket which can be tie wrapped to the base plate.Barney - ummm, errr, I opted for the 611 because I couldn't be bothered to get involved with continual tweeking of the 720. Yup, I still haven't finished my flybarless and have jst received some Zealgel ![]() |
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tchavei
rrProfessor Portugal |
-------------------- "Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..." |
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Yug
rrMaster UK. Herts |
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Yug
rrMaster UK. Herts |
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lightningrc
rrElite Veteran UK |
Im finding building it fine as I have the E version also , but for instance clamping the frames / bearing blocks up , I new to go and get a spare main shaft to keep every thing inlign so just did it , then you turn over to the next page and it tells you !! its to late then you have just tightened the screws.Also like as been said , I new the servo horns had to be 15mm from the centers and every thing must be at 90 etc and to get the links the same length and so on , but there no mention on that in the manual.Ive not got to fitting canopy on yet , that dont sound very good if its going to rub ![]() |
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bobj
rrVeteran United Kingdom |
My 600E is slightly wider at about 32mm and this is a little too much and I can feel the lose of resolution between this and the Nitro, must change it soon. My roll servo's are not touching the canopy as such but you can see slight marks on the inside of the canopy where they are just touching some times in flight when the canopy wobbles but not enough to cuase a problem. I am using Futaba S9255 servo's but just looked at some Hi-Tec HS 6965HB's and these have about a 3mm higher mounting so the servo arms will be pushed out another 3mm which might explain why yours are rubbing. If you have space between the two servo's you might be able to mount them with the lugs inside the frames to move them in a little.Regarding the tail you might find your servo arm is too big, the gearing is quite high on the tail so you only need about a 14mm arm (at least on a Futaba gyro)My regulator is velcro'ed to the side frame and although the LED's aren't highly visable I can see them enough to check them at the end of the flight. It's in the same location as the one pictured on Jason's website http://www.jkheli.com/Cheers Bob |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
![]() I also re-mounted the 720 behind the main mast as it was just a little too snug up front on the top of the front servo's. I used the standard 720 mount tapes except I only had strips so used the offcut to fill between the strips to give a very slightly firmer mounting.I did briefly try a 1mm tape but was getting vibration drift in Idle 2 at 2150 (still to get the revmax on it)I found my tail boom clamp had also 'settled' after initial fitment and needed an extra turn or so each side (tight as I dare for risk of stripping the plastic) Worthy of a check though ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I can honestly say this is the first heli I have really felt I might have to de-tune for quite some time and apart from a few minor issues looks like being the most innovative, exciting model in the 50 class for 2007 |
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Yug
rrMaster UK. Herts |
What paddles and blades are you using ? |
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RonHill
rrVeteran FLL, FL |
I posted this on another forum The good:
I am pretty impressed with the small things that Align has done to make life a little easier for us. One thing I really liked is how the included hardware was really complete. They included blade holders and 4 good velcro wraps. I can only find 2 screws on the entire heli, the rest are hex nuts INCLUDING the ball links...Like I said, the little things that make a difference.Another cool thing is how easy the engine is to drop and how easy the muffler is to get at. A lot of kits the idea of dropping the engine is a pain.The fuel tank makes me think they have been making glow helis for a while. The vent is on the same side as the feed. This makes it really easy to see when the tank is full and prevents you from filling the muffler with 30%. The frames are drilled to route the back pressure line through the heli. The kit even includes a fuel filter.At almost every point when I thought, "I could really use (Blank)". I looked around and Align supplied it.Canopy. Wow! nice paint and really light!I liked the manual on CD. Why kill a tree? If you need a paper manual you can print it. I didn't (of course I didn't build it anyway). I used the manual on CD and the build thread on the-trex600forum. I just needed my laptop and a rag to wipe my hands before I went surfing.Now the bad: A couple of things made it clear this was their first glow power heli. I had to file the bottom plate to allow the Muscle pipe to not rub. Align, what the heck?!?!?! The CYP Muscle pipe is one of the most popular in the market and you showed photos of the test pilots with them...You had to know of this issue. Not that it is a big issue, but it was a surprise considering how well the rest of the kit looked.Same thing with the Gov....It looks like it is set up for a GV1, but to run almost anything else requires taking a dremel to the fan housing. Again not a big deal but the CYP ATG and the mutigov are both popular Govs....How about thinking of the guys with those?The antenna guide has you putting the antenna right under the muffler. Not BAD, but messyJust like the Erex the pitch arm being in the middle of the frames can be a pain.Power switch. How about including a place to put a regular switch for the RX? I ended up using 2 sided tape to the top of the two servos in the front....Kind ghetto, but it will work.I think the tail control rod needs more brackets or a carbon tube. There is some play in the rod with only two brackets.I did not use the glow adapter bracket they supplied. I just took one I had and bolted it on with the engine to the motor mount and then bent it back so the glow driver runs along the frame facing backwards.Flying: It was windy as heck today (25-30 MPH). Almost didn't fly, then went out anyway . The heli feels light in the air and was getting bounced around, maybe a little more than my Evo.I am pulling -13/+13 and this thing jumps when you throw the stick!The tail felt locked in, a little wag. Maybe due to the gain (Didn't bother to really test it in those winds), maybe due to the high winds, maybe due to some slop in the rod?!?!?Overall the wind made it hard to see what the heli can really do (we know it can fly in 30MPH winds). My Piro flips resulted in the heli getting pushed away at an incredible rate so it was not a great shakedown environment. Anthony will be coming out tomorrow and I hope the wind will be much less.Set up: Radix CYP ATG Gov Logitech 6100 Gyro Futaba 9252 on Cyclic Futaba 9254 on throttle. JR 9303Since then Anthony has flow it, I I flew it about 5 more times. The roll and pitch were less responsive than my EVO. I cranked up the throw and it is about the same now, but much more responsive in collective. Anthony told me he really liked the machine and he wants one. That comment from a guy that has competed in the XFC and 3DM telling me he he likes it and wants one is a pretty strong statement about it IMO. |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
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bobj
rrVeteran United Kingdom |
Both have plenty of stability in FFF so maybe it's your main blades!? My 600N will be getting either Stubz when the next batch is in or the Align V paddle type paddles. My swash is about max out as much as possible, interestingly with the stock paddles I din't find the need for any Expo at all, I have some on with the Stubz. I still haven't fitted a govenor but it's running about 2150 on the head and as much collective as I can get so probably +-14.I am still using the stock plastic fin clamp, I fitted this with a smear of slow Zap under it and it's holding up fine. I wanted to fly the kit stock for a while to make sure everything works fine and holds up well!BTW I am sure you won't want to know this but the past two evenings have been wonderful down here, warm bright and zero wind:-)Cheers Bob |
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Barney
rrKey Veteran Inverness Scotland |
![]() ![]() ![]() I'm a lazy git I know I should really go and see how much cyclic it's running.I made a brkt up to fit my Revmax today..took ages to get it in there very tight. Well ..blow me...both magnets have gone SOUTH ![]() ![]() |
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bobj
rrVeteran United Kingdom |
Bob |
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