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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › Sceadu Mechanical setup question.
01-15-2003 04:28 AM  15 years agoPost 21
Ken B

rrElite Veteran

Phoenix, AZ

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Ok, Here's what I do.

Sounds like it's time to go back to the basic set up and go out from there.

What servo arm are you using and at what distance is the hole from servo center. Should be 17mm. Make sure it's perfectly square on the servo at center stick and 50% on the pitch curve in the radio.

Check the pitch arm and make sure it gets the full range of motion before connecting it to the servo. Make sure it's level per the instructions when connected to the servo.

Now with the collective arm connected to the swash make sure it's all connected through to the washout. Is the radius block ALL THE WAY UP? The block should be all the way up.

Now the fun part. With your radio on and at center stick and the head all assembled and together. Adjust the mixing arm rod till you have the blade at 0 pitch in the middle stick position. You should be able to get it VERY close. This is where you find out if your mixing arm rods are to long. I had to take 4mm off mine to get this perfect. I get 10.5 up and down with the SR-IV head and 11 with the stock head.

Ken B

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01-15-2003 06:19 AM  15 years agoPost 22
XLFLYER

rrApprentice

Denver, Colorado and Fort Lauderdale, Florida

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Eran I trashed the stock Hirobo double links!!! Buy some TT double links for $1.29. This will help you adjust the blades to zero degrees at 50% in idle 2!

Push Rod Lengths are measured form ball center to ball center:
Mixing Arm =36mm
Elevator Rod=42mm
Aileron Rod=8mm
Collective Pitch Rod=22.5mm
Throttle Linkage Rod=62.5
Stabilizer Control Rod=11mm measuring form the inner portion of link!

Servo horn measurements from center of ball to center of servo output shaft screw:
Throttle 13mm
Aileron 13mm
Elevator 13mm
Rudder 17mm
Collective Pitch 14mm

Position the ball on the collective arm in the front hole out of the 3 holes!

On the mixing arms mount the balls in the inner holes! If you put them in the outter holes you will be subtracting 1degree of travel!!!

This setup assuming you set up your pitch curves correctly will give you +11,-11! You will have to reduce the pitch curves slightly because mechanical set up will give you about +12,-12.

In addition, I am using JR 8231 servos!

Note: use a very strong servo arm for your pitch!!!

Hope this helps if you have any questions email me!

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01-16-2003 01:56 AM  15 years agoPost 23
PatrickHH

rrNovice

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

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Thanks a lot for your help,
My heli is Sceadu30 with stock wood blades, after adjusting now I have high pitch=+10.5, low=-10, I have to set both Pitch ATV to 110% to get this larger pitch.
Further, I still have a small space on top of the radius block when pitch =100%, which will make it around +11.

Patrick

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01-16-2003 03:51 AM  15 years agoPost 24
fitenfyr

rrProfessor

Port Orchard, Washington

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Something else to consider..
I had to cut about 2mm off of the mixing arm links. (the long links from the swash to the arms) to get the full range of motion.
Also not trying to pick or anything, but why use 11 deg?
I think you would find if you ran +10/-10 you would be very happy with the ship.
I think going above that is an exercise in futility (sp). The extra 1 deg is not going to give you any more performance. IMO it is just going to put more of a load and possible bog your engine during big collecitve/cyclic combinations. Yep I ran my Sceadu with +12/-12 when I first got it. The OS50 on 30% would handle it just fine, but it would bog with cyclic/collective input combinations. I tried 11/11 and it was better but still bogged.
FWIW. I run 10/10 on my Freya and Sceadu. I run 9/9 on my Shuttle or any 30 for that matter. No overspeeding or bogging, with a 10% reserve for throttle mix to boot. Oh by the way I also don't use a governer.

Now I can and have run 11 and 12 in Drag racing mode. , but that doesn't require any big combinations so bogging is not a problem there.

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

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01-16-2003 04:27 AM  15 years agoPost 25
XLFLYER

rrApprentice

Denver, Colorado and Fort Lauderdale, Florida

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No problem fitenfyr I did not take your reply as a call to war!

I will try to answer your question the best that I can! My set up is used in Denver, Colorado, which is high altitude to most of you guys! If you use an OS 50 and 600mm blades and 30% fuel you will need to run the set up with +11, -11 to get nice climb outs using the full potential of the engine without bogging it! If you use less pitch what will happen is your heli will scream and you will have a slower climb out and as you climb your heli will slowly increase in speed as the heli gains altitude. This is a clear indication that you are not using enough pitch. If you do any aerobatics it is really nice to have the extra pitch! In addition, it is very hard to auto a heli at high altitude and if you use to little pitch you will crash and burn! I do not know why your heli bogs however, my screams like there is no tomorrow and I have no bogging during continues flips and tumbles. Believe me one-degree makes a lot of difference with these helis at high altitude! This may not be the same at lower altitudes where the air is much thicker. Just a note Jeff Green uses +11,-11 on his Sceadu set up and he is at a lower elevation. When I had my Fury Extreme 80 I had it set up for +12,-12 degrees of collective pitch. The Min. rep. in the area recommended this setup and it worked flawlessly. I believe after 12 degrees of pitch most blades will start to stall! If you do encounter bogging you can use cyclic to throttle mixing which will eliminate any problems! Hope this helps and if you have any questions on the Sceadu setup email me!

If you were doing a 30 set up I would recommend 9 to 10 degrees of travel each direction, 11 degrees would be too much!

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01-16-2003 06:58 AM  15 years agoPost 26
fitenfyr

rrProfessor

Port Orchard, Washington

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Didn't catch that...
Didn't catch your location. Makes a big difference up there!

Jason Stiffey
Fly Fast....Live Slow...

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