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11-21-2006 12:20 AM  11 years agoPost 1
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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Hi:

I'm new to RC flying and I got a Blade CP to start. Right now I'm learning on the Pre Filght simulator and won't fly the real thing till I feel ready. When I ordered the CP I ordered an extra battery, not knowing much. Reading the instructions I'm told I have to change the motor and add heatsinks if I'm to use a lipo battery(that's the extra battery I got). Should I return the lipo battery and get more stock NiMH batteries along with a good charger or plan to use lipo batteries?

Thanks
Da Bird

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11-21-2006 12:23 AM  11 years agoPost 2
RobRoy

rrKey Veteran

Huntsville, Alabama

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It's best to have the heatsink on the motor, but the stock motor will work just fine with a lipo. I have over a hundred flights with a lipo and the stock motor, it does get warm, but for only $10 to replace it, no real big deal.

Ignorance is curable, stupidity is for life.

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11-21-2006 12:37 AM  11 years agoPost 3
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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Break it up into two shorter sessions and you will be fine. Oh read up on the Radd method. It makes flying safer for the heli:

http://www.dream-models.com/eco/battery01.html

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11-21-2006 02:41 AM  11 years agoPost 4
BLADE CP GUY

rrApprentice

Houston, Texas- USA

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Haha
Hi Da Bird, welcome to this Hobby...IT's fun, and worth the money you spend..Since you're new in this hobby let me tell you some facts abou it
I think you should use the blue factory batteries just for hovering, adjusting your pitch grades or any another test you do before you fly...I suggest to get a lipo battery..it's much better and longer flights..which will make your flight training a bit more faster than using the factory batteries.
Now using a lipo battery doesn't need anything to use it except for a lipo charger, you dont have to change your motor and you dont need a heat sink..but I strongly suggest to get a heat sink to make your motor last longer, especialy the tail motor...
With the lipo battery as you will discover when you get your blade cp..you can compare the power of the blue NIMH batteries and the lipo batteries..The blue batteries are less power and less flight time. The lipo battery gives you more power and longer time..and the lipo battery will help you prevent low power crahes(like when your battery power suddenly looses power or when you make a turn and decreesed altitude)The power of the lipo battery can save you from those crashes..and all you have to worry about is yourself, how careful you fly it or how good you are to keep it from crashing.
I suggest to get the dual motor upgrade because this will make your tail motor last longer(because this will make the current divided in half because you are using two motors) and it will hold your tail much better than a single tail motor.
You dont need a gyro but It is the best to have it because this will also prevent crashes from tail control...And your Tail will improce much better which means it will be much more stable..
For the ultimate performance use a brushless motor fro your blade cp.....Its what I call the ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM upgrade...It's the ultimate blade cp when mixed with all the upgrade for balde cp ...like the after market super landing skids, bell hiller upgrade, a stronger main shaft, a good gyro, all metal head upgrade and a 1000 miliAmpp
or below lipo battery...That Blade CP will be in the right weight and power to be stable enough with slightly strong wind... and still 3d capability...and to prove that Im sure someone out ther have all the blings and cool upgrade for his blade cp like mine.....hahahahaha the blade cp Guy.....

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11-21-2006 04:09 AM  11 years agoPost 5
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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Batteries
Thanks for the replys. I'll get the heat sinks. Horizon has a charger for lipo's (Celectra 1-3 Cell Li-Po DC Charger) is this a good charger? I'm still flying the simultor and havn't really messed around with the CP yet, it looks great. When I feel confident I'll start trimming and adjusting it but I don't want to be temped till I'm ready. The way I'm flying the simulator I would have bought tons of new CP parts already. Also: are the training gear with the balls at the end worth it?

Thanks
Da Bird

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11-21-2006 06:48 AM  11 years agoPost 6
Thunder_gryphoN

rrNovice

Wheeling, IL - USA

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The training gear is probably the most worthwile thing you can get as a new pilot, even more so than a sim. It will keep you from tipping over on the ground if you are not in full control and will pay itself off VERY quickly - most likely a few minutes or even seconds into your first flight. Instead of tipping and ripping up your blades, drive shaft, rotor head, motor, 4-in -1, etc... you are just standing there, shaking with white palms as your helo's life flashes before your eyes and you realize it's sitting fine on the ground, ready for you to try again

If it moves but shouldn't, duct tape. If it doesn't, but should, WD-40

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11-21-2006 07:13 AM  11 years agoPost 7
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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Training gear
Thanks: This is just what I need to know. I just did some more looking at Horizon and saw a battery charger that does both lipo and nimh batteries, MULTICharger LN-5014, any good?

Da Bird

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11-21-2006 07:35 AM  11 years agoPost 8
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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The sim isn't going to teach you much to hover. But it will give you control orientation as you go beyond the hover.

I suggest you start your lessons on the real heli. The sim experience will come back to you when you move into forward flight and circuits.

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11-21-2006 01:59 PM  11 years agoPost 9
accelerator

rrApprentice

Knoxville, TN

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I also have the BCP with 3 stock nimh batteries. They are adequate for practicing hovering in different oreintations. There are also less prone to damage and negligence. I left one pack on the stock charger overnight I have since bought a Triton JR that will do both battery types. I think what I'm trying to get say is that don't worry about upgrading too much until you get good at hovering.

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11-21-2006 04:42 PM  11 years agoPost 10
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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I guess I'm jumping the gun, asking about batteries. The reason I am asking is that the instructions for the stock charger say that you need to monitor the charging over a 3hr period. I'm likely to forget the thing and let it cook. Not knowing any better I also bought a lipo battery along with the CP and have no way to charge it.

Da Bird

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11-21-2006 07:59 PM  11 years agoPost 11
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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I've been using that Multiplex LN-5014 for a few months now. I really like it for how cheap it is. It can charge Nicd, Nimh and Li-pos. It has a readout to show voltage from beginning to end, mah added and total charging time. It makes it real easy to keep track of your batteries performance. For the money its really hard to beat.

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11-22-2006 02:46 AM  11 years agoPost 12
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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Thanks Guys
Thanks Guys:

Every post had somthing usefull. I'm ordering the training gear and a few other extras; should be ready to start on the real thing in about a week.

Da Bird

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11-22-2006 03:02 AM  11 years agoPost 13
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Da Bird is that the pine bush near Albany??????

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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11-23-2006 02:52 AM  11 years agoPost 14
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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slider 46:

No, it's closer to Newburgh.

Da Bird

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11-24-2006 01:05 AM  11 years agoPost 15
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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Update
Well:

The charger, heat sinks and training gear are on the way. With a little luck maybe I'll be in the air in about a week.

Da Bird

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11-25-2006 01:20 AM  11 years agoPost 16
harrym

rrNovice

Tulsa, Ok

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Hi Da Bird,

I am also a newbie. I got a used CP about a week ago. Get all the Sim time you can! It will get your fingers working and will definatly keep you from over correcting when you fly live. I will do the Sim for about an hour then take my CP out, get it light on the training skids and practice keeping it in a 3 square foot box that I have chalked out on the floor. I do this repeatedly to build up my confidence and hand-eye coordination. After doing this about a dozen times I then bring the CP into about a 1" hover and do this until I can stay in the box. That's where I'm at at this point and all I've broken so far are a couple of pitch links. I am also using plactic flat bottom blades. They take a licking and keep on ticking. There's no reason to use symetrical blades at this point and the wood blades don't last. Tighten your main blades as tight as you can get them. This will help save the tail boom when you catch a blade tip on something. Also put a 2" piece of large fuel tubing over the tail boom 3" forward of the tail rotor. This is where the main blades will strike it and shatter the carbon fiber. If you do shatter it, you can repair it with epoxy. Another good thing to do is to add fuses to the main and tail motors. This will save the 4in1 if you forget to pull the throttle and throttle trim back after a crash. Find out how here... http://www.urbanastronomer.com/bladecp/fuses/

Also check out the videos here... http://runryder.com/t244675p1/

Hope this helps!

GLuck
HarryM

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11-25-2006 04:50 PM  11 years agoPost 17
penguinchicken

rrNovice

PDX

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I have read plenty of posts about guys who fry their 4-1 using lipo's and the stock 10t motor, seems like some do and some don't.
I really resisted the lipo upgrade for a long time. When I finally made the change I was kicking myself for not doing it sooner.
I.M.O. don't trust the 10t with a lipo, is it really worth risking a $60 4-1 to avoid changing a $6 motor?
I am new to this hobby also and I am lots happier with my setup now.
1.$20 lipo's
2.$10 charger
3.$6 9t motor with 2 heatsinks and heatsink goo.
4.$8 sym blades (more stable in wind)
helidirect rules!

You can always tell a pilot, but you can't tell him much!

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11-26-2006 03:27 AM  11 years agoPost 18
DougBonham

rrNovice

Pittsburgh, PA, USA

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Hi Da Bird

I too, started my Heli experience with a Blade.... well, sort of.... It's the one that I actually got to fly! There are a bunch of hop-ups available..... you can read about most of them here. LiPo's are the goods, but can lead to more expense. A brushless motor and a good controller like a Phoenix-25 makes a great addition. A heading hold gyro is awesome. Replacing the Radio gear goes a very long way..... the stock stuff relies on mechanical adjustments alone to set blade pitch, etc. but a computer controller like a Futaba 7CHP allows for many, may settings at the controller itself.... by the same tolen, now you have to figure out how to make the radio work too. Take your time. Rash dcisions can make your $200 Blade cost more that a TREX very quickly. Feel free to ask these guys about your options, some one out ther ehas tried pretty much everything.

As far as the sim is concerned..... virtual crashes are a lot cheaper than real ones. Fly the sim until the controls are as second nature to you as driving a car. It's true the the sim doesn't replace actual flight time, but it lets you figure some stuff out without costing any more money!

Ultimately, I've found is that the better you understand the workings of the heli the more you will understand what you have to do to make things happen. Take the main blades off and watch the mechanics work. There are some intructional videos on runryder that explain some of the basics. Again, the folks here can fill in a lot of the gaps.

Take your time and don't get frustrated! Bear in mind blades are consumables! Happy flying.

Doug
With enough power anything can fly!

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12-01-2006 06:37 AM  11 years agoPost 19
Da Bird

rrNovice

Pine Bush, NY, USA

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Update
Thanks for all the help. I've been flying the sim regularly but I'm still not able to hover; getting antsy to play with the real thing. The sim pitches down and rolls left on take off and I don't seem to be able to compensate to the point where I can lift straight up.

I got all the parts I mentioned above. The next step will be to prepare the CP for flight. Adjusting the out of the box CP seems intimidating.

For starters I'll use the heat sinks, stock NiMH battery and the training gear. I have use of a large indoor space for tests.

Thanks
Da Bird

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12-01-2006 07:38 AM  11 years agoPost 20
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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Do not tighten the blades as tight as you can as advised. This will destroy a lot of head parts like spindle, grips, and main shaft as the blades impact at full speed. It should be tight enough to resist spoolup and spooldown bending but loose enough to swing on impact.
You can avoid blade strikes by throttling down gently each time.

Don't be afraid to use the heli. Just get it light on the skids and practice on absolute 2D control. keep the tail towards you at all times. Bring the heli to areas you command it to.

Once you get full control orientation bring her up a small distance each session. Get used to its instability. Everytime you get uncomfortable or need to think about what to do next, throttle down gently. That gets her level on the ground.

The sooner you try your heli the quicker you will learn. But keep working with the sim and do exercises as you would in the real one. resist flying around yet. It does you no good in the short term. Focus on hovering and landing.

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