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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerOther › White or grey main gear on 90se
10-29-2006 07:57 PM  12 years agoPost 1
Mattiward

rrApprentice

160ft off the deck 10ft from 400,000 volts - U.K.

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Someone mentioned to me a while back that I should use the white maingear on my 90se / OS 91 SZH PS Hyper / Hatori SB-18FH combination for 3D flight.

Is this right?

Regards Matti
~ Self confessed Chopperholic! ~

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10-29-2006 08:01 PM  12 years agoPost 2
FireStarter

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England

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Yes, with the white gear you can get a better ratio for the OS engines,8.27, get about 1930-1950rpm on the head and you'll be right in the engines sweet spot

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10-29-2006 08:02 PM  12 years agoPost 3
DOKEY

rrProfessor

Northamptonshire UK

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White gear is 91 tooth and with the 11 tooth pinion gives you 8.27:1 gear ration which is probably the best R90 gear ratio for that combination you have.

Ryan.

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10-29-2006 10:10 PM  12 years agoPost 4
carlyle

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Stratford, Ontario, Canada

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it will give you a little faster gear ratio, resulting in a bit more pop from your engine. You will, however, loose a bit of torque.

I'm running a 8.27:1 ratio with a OS 91SZ PS on my 90SE.

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10-30-2006 01:20 AM  12 years agoPost 5
uragem

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Indianapolis, IN - USA

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I am running 8.45 w/ the 11 tooth. What is the downside of that ratio?

Indy Jeweler

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10-30-2006 03:03 AM  12 years agoPost 6
Jerry Sudimick

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Connecticut

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Uragem,

What headspeed are you running?

Jerry

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10-30-2006 07:44 AM  12 years agoPost 7
BPFlyer

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Wichita, KS

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I really prefer the 8.27 ratio on my YS 91/ Muscle Pipe running 1950 headspeed using TT 710mm blades. Had the 8.45 ratio for a short while, I like the 8.27 more.

At 1950 on the head, the engine is turning 16,100 rpm. Since my collective management is less than great, when I bogg the motor some, it falls back into the engines peak powerband. For me, it's a crutch of sorts for my lack of skill on the sticks.

Most guys seem to agree that the YS 91 works best for them between 15,500 and 16,000 RPM. Muffler/pipe choice, blades, cyclic rates, etc... all factor in. Just my opinion and thoughts.

Fly it like you stole it!

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10-30-2006 08:30 PM  12 years agoPost 8
BOONY

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lancashire UK

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i agree with fire starter

his post is very informative

Adam

Remember crashing is stupid and you could end up crying in front of your friends!

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10-31-2006 05:57 PM  12 years agoPost 9
Mattiward

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160ft off the deck 10ft from 400,000 volts - U.K.

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Just been to buy a white main gear and the LHS said "which one - there are two if not three different ones" !?!?!?!?!

Frig!

I couldn't remember how many teeth you guys mentioned, so I decided on the 91T and thought if there were too many I could always take the 90se to the dentist with a case of overcrowded teeth and have some whiped out

Luckily I chose right, thanks guys.

I am just hoping the pinion I put in was the 11T .....

Regards Matti
~ Self confessed Chopperholic! ~

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10-31-2006 06:39 PM  12 years agoPost 10
BOONY

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lancashire UK

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i bought a 91 tooth for my 90

unfortunatly i gotta wait to get it all set up before i can try it

Adam

Remember crashing is stupid and you could end up crying in front of your friends!

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11-04-2006 10:50 PM  12 years agoPost 11
Mattiward

rrApprentice

160ft off the deck 10ft from 400,000 volts - U.K.

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OK, So i've got the 91T gear in place along with a yummy new Quick UK auto hub.

I've noticed when I spin the gear it is very noisy. I have put a piece of paper through between the pinion & main gear.

Is it the fact it is new means it'll need a little bedding in to the existing pinion?

I'm also guessing the diameter of the white gear is less than the stock grey item, thus increasing the backlash slightly.

I'm really enjoying tinkering without having to remove broken parts and wipe away grass & dirt. Its almost theraputic.

Regards Matti
~ Self confessed Chopperholic! ~

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11-05-2006 02:44 AM  12 years agoPost 12
Jerry Sudimick

rrVeteran

Connecticut

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Matti,

To do this right, you should drop the motor, and loosen the bolts that secure the pinion's bearing block into the helicopter. You can use a wrench if necessary for leverage - but you need to free up the pinion bearing block so it slides fore/aft. Then you need to position is so that you have a tiny bit of backlash between the pinion and main gear. This should yield a smooth mesh. By holding the clutch bell with your finger, you can wiggle the main gear and feel this tiny backlash. Check it at several different spots on the maingear.

Then tighten up the bearing block, reinstall and re-align your motor, and off you go.

Don't do this with the motor still in the heli, because it was aligned to that block with the old ratio. You'll get things all misaligned if you do it with the engine in place.

Jerry

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11-05-2006 11:10 AM  12 years agoPost 13
Mattiward

rrApprentice

160ft off the deck 10ft from 400,000 volts - U.K.

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Thanks Jerry,

Fortunately it is rather windy this morning so i've got time to tinker with the 90 rather than going out to get my flying fix with the 50.

Regards Matti
~ Self confessed Chopperholic! ~

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11-05-2006 11:19 AM  12 years agoPost 14
Billebob

rrVeteran

Tim-buck-2

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hi everyone,

I do it a little differently for back lash. I hold the main gear and wiggle the clutch bell back and forth to sample the lash. This way you can have minimal play, for some reason this is more sensitive due to a very low friction. Like Jerry, I do it at all gear tooth positions as nothing is manufactured perfectly. The tightest contact area of a new gear gets zero lash but with no binding.(it will break in)

I find trying to set lash with the engine removed for myself will only give a coarse initial setting due to the lack of a lower clutch bell support. Having the bell supported in the clutch makes the system rigid. So I go back and forth by adjusting pinion a smigent, realign the engne then go back as much as I need to get it as best I can. If you can visually see a canted installation then the pinion needs to be straightened out.


The mesh will change when the bearing block is tightened down (usually tighter) plus the engine as we know needs to be realigned anytime the bearing block is shifted.


"Engine removed" initial mesh should be done with a new gear ratio as Jerry says or as a starting point. If it works out fine and dandy, but if you are not satisfied with a desire for reduced play at the 'clutch bell gear mesh check point' stronger measures can be used.

My consideration with the engine installed is that it will restrict movement of the pinion leading to a finer vernier like "in-situ" mesh adjustment. I have also found even with the bolts fully loose on the pinion bearing block that it is hard to adjust so I use a long tool and tap on the end with it against the bearing block center. The reason is the frame clamp-up from other structural points. The wrench idea by Jerry seems a good one too for moving the pinion. Some guys will grind a small curved notch in the collective carriage lower end for easy bearing block bolt access.


I pull the glow plug, crank the engine over with the starter and tighten engine mounts down, then check the start shaft for smooth freewheeling along with mesh condition. I check at all points of crankshaft rotation and main gear positioning. If you've got clutch runout, a bad main gear, or something out of whack it should become apparent. I guess it boils down to how close you want to have the mesh and how much fiddling-farting one cares to do. It may be tedious but all brands deserve TLC in my mind.

Speaking of TLC one needs a good foundation for the engine mount before it is installed in the aircraft. I always make sure the engine is aligned as best it can be in the aluminum mount using a feeler gage between a straight edge laid against the motor mount and the fan edge. There is a very small amount of movement here. I mark the fan edge to check the same position at both engine mount sides plus use the same mount edge location.

The really funny thing is some people slap the machine together quickly and have great success. (I'm not speaking of anyone in particular)This may be due to time-in, a good eyeball or luck. Others need close verification that they did the best they could. It's a hobby and you get out of it what you put in. Many methods are possible. How do you skin your cats!?

BB

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11-05-2006 05:27 PM  12 years agoPost 15
Jerry Sudimick

rrVeteran

Connecticut

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Good advice BilleBob. Now if only everyone else knew your real name so they knew the vast experience you have with these machines.

Jerry

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11-05-2006 07:58 PM  12 years agoPost 16
Billebob

rrVeteran

Tim-buck-2

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Thank you kindly for the compliment Jerry, good advice should always stand on its own regardless. Some people like myself prefer privacy. I hope you can understand that. Thanks again for all the helpful tips you have given here on RR.

BB

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