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Other › Received my JMD Models Jet ranger this morning
10-27-2006 04:35 PM  12 years agoPost 1
cadwarrior

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Canada

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I received my fuselage from jmd models this morning.

For those who had that kind of fuselage, did you paint it from the inside or from the outside?, and what did you use for joining both sections?, glue?, tape?


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10-27-2006 04:44 PM  12 years agoPost 2
caseyjholmes

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Portland, Oregon

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Looks like fun. I've never had enough patience to paint scale stuff, let alone a normal trex canopy..
Good luck! Hope it comes out good for ya. Show us a "finished" picture when she's done .
Thats a nice clean workbench too!

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10-27-2006 04:44 PM  12 years agoPost 3
Remyrw

rrApprentice

Bloomfield, CT - usa

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connection
you don't want anything permanent or too tough connecting the halves since you need to remove it regularly. Maybe a hinged setup with a catch on the opposite side? I'm not sure.

For painting, my choice would be from the inside and then a couple layers of white or black behind the paint so scratches don't go immediately to your paint job. Then on the outside, after decals go on, spray a couple coats of clear. If you DO paint from the outside, which is possibly easier but defeats the purpose of a clear body, make sure you do a few extra coats of clear and don't do one before the decals unless your final paint coat isn't really smooth.

If you paint from the outside the usual system is to paint a thin coat, sand lightly, paint another.... in order to get that smooth finish that painting from the inside automatically gives. Obviously that's per COLOR, so it can be very time consuming.

I can't wait to see the outcome though, I've seen videos of one full fuse T-rex, it's nice to see another on the way.

Remy
Practice in a sim, or it's practice fix practice fix...

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10-27-2006 04:56 PM  12 years agoPost 4
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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I'm in the process of doing a hughes 500E for my XL I painted the inside with lexan paint like they use on the rc cars. I used liquid masking for the windows before painting, then after painting I removed the masking and used the lexan smoke color for the windows painted from the inside. I glue the top of the body and the front canopy halves together but leave the botom open so I can use clear scotch tape once the mechanics are in the fuse. So far it looks great I just need to get the decals done and mount it, but I'm still working on the scale landing gear set up. I can send you some pics of the fuse if you send me your email address, or I will post here on Monday....

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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10-27-2006 05:10 PM  12 years agoPost 5
cadwarrior

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Canada

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Thanks all for your suggestion and help!

the idea of something easy to remove to "play" with mechanics is good, maybe the join will be visible, but at 6 feet in the air I will not see it! The main reason that I chose a clear body was not for the "inside painting", but for having clear windows, that look better in my opinion.

I will try to paint it like that with a custom scale landing skid made of 1/4" aluminum tubing painted white with anti-slip stickers:

Will post the result here....only if it is "postable"

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10-27-2006 05:40 PM  12 years agoPost 6
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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These clear bodys are pretty easy to do and you don't have to be a great painter to get a beautiful finish because they are painted from the inside like the r/c cars......

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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10-27-2006 06:33 PM  12 years agoPost 7
cyclicpitcher

rrApprentice

Memphis TN

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walk thu pictures
I have some walk through pictures on my website on a jetranger fuselage from Darthdrk.

Go to my gallery on my http://www.funscale.com website.

www.funscale.com

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10-27-2006 06:33 PM  12 years agoPost 8
cadwarrior

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Canada

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If I hide the antenna inside the fuselage and along the boom
do you think it will make interferences or reduce the range???

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10-27-2006 06:37 PM  12 years agoPost 9
cyclicpitcher

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Memphis TN

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No range issues for me
The TREX inside my Jetranger is an XL HDE running a telebee gyro with a Spektrum reciever connected to a JR 6102 modded radio. I have no issues with this setup and the antennas are inside the fuselage.

www.funscale.com

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01-09-2007 07:10 PM  11 years agoPost 10
cadwarrior

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Canada

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first step, black trim paint from inside.

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01-09-2007 07:17 PM  11 years agoPost 11
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Looks good so far, I see you haven't seperated the front and back halves of the fuse yet. If that to keep your paint lines straight it's a good idea...

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-09-2007 07:19 PM  11 years agoPost 12
cadwarrior

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Canada

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that's the idea yes! and thanks for the comments!, this is not perfect, the paint have goes under my tape... hard for the tape to stay in place in internal curves...

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01-09-2007 07:22 PM  11 years agoPost 13
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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I'm doing a jet ranger right now too. Here is a pic of my hughes 500E flying...

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-09-2007 07:35 PM  11 years agoPost 14
cadwarrior

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Canada

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nice looking bird!

I think I will join half sides with transparent tape from the outside. the tape will be visible, but will be easy to dismount,

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01-09-2007 07:44 PM  11 years agoPost 15
FLYCHOPPAZ

rrNovice

OC Califonia

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Paper masking tapes will always bleed through the edges like that.The cheap way to get a crisp line is by using electrical tape. And FYI... all of JMD's fleet are painted on the outside.

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01-09-2007 08:11 PM  11 years agoPost 16
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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Cadwarrior I like to use "goop" you can get it almost any where. I join both halves of the nose section all the way around, there is a glue flange on one side and the other piece slides over it on all 3 sections of the body... Then on the mid section and tail boom piece I just glue the top side, that way you can tape and use a couple of small screws on the bottom to hold it together and it's easily removeable... Using just clear tape might come apart or tear from vibration and wind pressure on the 2 pieces... I am trying tiny earth magnets from radio shack to hold the nose piece to the mid section and it seem to be working very good so far. I'll keep you posted what they are like when I get the body mounted on the frame in the next day or two....
Here are some pics of the painted body off the heli so you can get an idea of how to glue the halves together

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-09-2007 09:00 PM  11 years agoPost 17
BikeNBoatN

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Santa Ana, CA USA

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On my MX400, I had my cr*ppy RC-Expert JetRanger body taped together with transparent tape. To make it easier to install around curves, I use a slightly stretchy vinyl tape instead of non-stretchy plastic tape. That way it doesn't wrinkle. Never had any problems with the tape tearing. That body was in two halves like the JMD. I cut it into 4 pieces by separating fronts and rears in line with the "doors". The two halves of the boom were taped together. Nothing really solidly attached the boom halves to the heli except a loop of tape around the tailbox.

And I used those same round Radio Shack rare earth magnets to hold the front section of the canopy on as well. I glued plastic tabs on the insides that overlapped the front and rear sections. I glued one magnet to the rear section, and another to a plastic tab on the front section. I had one magnet sticking to another magnet, instead of to a piece of iron. I put a pair of magnets midway down the side, about in line with the "doors", and another pair of magnets up near the swash opening. 4 attachment points (8 magnets total) held the front on quite securely, yet a firm tug would pull it off instantly for battery access. Worked much better than screws, posts, grommets, tape, etc.

The only thing holding the front section onto the rear section was those magnets. And the rear section was just held on because the two halves were taped together around the boom. Never had any problems with loose parts moving or vibrating.

After destroying that body in my last crash, I've got a Darth JetRanger body that I will be putting onto my TRex using the same magnet mount method.

Brent
Slow and Smooth 2-D Scale Flyer
AMA #35431

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01-09-2007 10:26 PM  11 years agoPost 18
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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I'm really happy with the magnets so far and plan to use them on my other 2 bodies....

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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01-10-2007 12:13 AM  11 years agoPost 19
jack726

rrVeteran

Cerritos California

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If you look at your plastic shells you will find that you have to cut a vertical line; this will allow you to remove the front halve of the fuselage without removing the mechanics.

That being said, I have built dozens of scale models and have only been unhappy with the 3 JMD models I have built. They are impossible to glue without showing a horrible seam. The glue will make it impossible to paint from the inside. The 500 requires you to use the short boom, even though I was promised the long boom would fit.

I had to fabricate my own mounting system and landing gear, because at that time none were available. They are available at an additional price, though other brands include such hardware.

The price is ridiculous for just empty shells and no mounting hardware

After many hours I was able to get a good looking model, but I sure had to put in an enormous amount of work to do so. You might get it to look good while flying without much efford, but I like them to look good up close also.

The above is my opinion only, so please do not try to educate me; my mind is made up.

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01-10-2007 12:20 AM  11 years agoPost 20
steph280

rrElite Veteran

Irvine, California

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I built the JMB Bell 222. Yeah they are pricey for what they are, but they are also the most scale fuse available for micro helis.

I agree there is no way to paint from the inside and hide the seams. You basically have to join the halves, use putty to fill the seams, and then go onto the primer/paint. I used Tamiya acrylic in spray can and it turned out well. Painted the windows black from the inside, and rest on the outside. Didn't use a clearcoat because although the glossy finish may look nice, they just don't resemble the real heli very well. The Tamiya acrylic had enough gloss to make it shiny, but not too much to make it look like a toy.

It sure was a test of my patience to build this. But end result is very rewarding.

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