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10-26-2006 10:02 PM  11 years agoPost 1
PilotPaul

rrNovice

Bensenville, IL

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I always wanted to get into scale rc helis...

The one I would love to get is a Hughes 500 =]

I flew Raptors and now I want to fly scale...

Can you folks help me with all the info and sites or what parts I need....

and I mean from A to Z...

Thx guys .. I hope this isnt a problem helping me out ...

Helis = Love =D !

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10-26-2006 10:34 PM  11 years agoPost 2
kshaw2154

rrApprentice

Atlanta, Ga. USA

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It all depends on you and how scale you want to go. You can go so far as to provide documentation of the heli you're modeling which requires very much detail including the interior, or you can go stand off scale, which looks like the machine you're modeling from a safe distance and not so much detail is required, or you can go "fun" scale where the machine looks like the machine you want to model but isn't accurate to scale for size, color scheme, interior or exterior detail. It just looks like the machine you like the most You can chedk out a variety of sites. For my personal use I have used http://www.Centuryhelicopter.com. They offer a significant selection of fuselages and some compatability charts for your mechanics to help you determine which will work for you at your personal level.
Hope this helps.

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10-27-2006 11:26 AM  11 years agoPost 3
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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that 50 size 500 from century would work well for your rappy. the woodwork comes ready for it and as a first time scaler, it would be perfect for you.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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10-27-2006 12:23 PM  11 years agoPost 4
MichaelP

rrKey Veteran

Northumberland UK

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I too would go for the Century fuselage for your Raptor.

http://www.webstarts.com/micksscalehelicopters

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10-27-2006 03:27 PM  11 years agoPost 5
racer944

rrApprentice

Greely, Ontario - Canada

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I agree on the Century recommendation... Beautiful quality and you can even get them prepainted if you like which saves time, and aggravation for your first time scale build... The instrcuctions and parts cover the installation of the Raptor Mechanics.

Here is an example of the Century prepainted Hughes 500E that I am putting together as a multiblade setup...

As for what you need... if you get a prepainted one, you need your Raptor mechanics, one of these fuselages, and some glue... thats it! A few nights and your good to go!

Cheers;
Eric

P.S. There is a very nice read Hughes 500D prepainted fuselage setup for the Raptor for sale in the RR classifieds...

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10-28-2006 04:42 PM  11 years agoPost 6
cybergirl

rrNovice

Ireland

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Just finished my 500E/ Funkey fuse pre painted.I had a few small probs but now she is stunning.Biggest mistake i made was using the wrong glue for the screen!!! Had to remove it and re do it.Was very lucky not to damage anything.I also had an issue with the tail servor rod binding at the end of the fuse.(cut a small groove and now its perfect.)I would highly recommend Cent/Funkey fuses for a first timer (which i am).Even though the instructions are bad it is really straight forward.I used my evo mech and the only cutting i had to do was the tail section of the fuse.Now its time for her maiden flight!!!!

Any tips would be great.


Pics to follow.

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10-28-2006 04:51 PM  11 years agoPost 7
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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awsome!!! congrats on your first scaler. well, just take things easy til you get confidence in things. when you first hover, dont go for a long one, maybe 5 or so mins, then shut down and inspect for loose screws. they tend to try to come out during that first tankful. after three hops or so, if nothing has shown signs of leaving, they are probably all gonna stay onboard. the ship will feel a little different, more sluggish and power to weight will be reduced so feel it out and dont expect the snappiness in controll as before. soon you will settle into things and will be good to rocketing around the skies with your hair on fire
one more tip, have fun!!!

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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10-28-2006 06:53 PM  11 years agoPost 8
cybergirl

rrNovice

Ireland

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Just about to test fly and guess what. It looks like the flybar/paddles are to close to the fuse. Did a bit of home work and i require a flybar limiter or scale ring to limit the movement of the fly bar.I could adjust the atv but i would be more relaxed knowing that the paddles couldnt hit the fuse at all.Problem is i have no idea where to get one of this limiters/ scale rings(long weekend and cant test fly)Can you buy this limiter or does it have to be made? Any body know of a link where i could at least see one of these scale rings,and where i could buy one.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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10-28-2006 09:04 PM  11 years agoPost 9
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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flybar reality
the ONLY time the flybar can deflect enough to contact the fuse is on spoolup, or on the bench. Even though you see 6 inches of deflection now, in the air it is very little (maybe an inch up or an inch down). I avoid flybar collision on spoolup by making sure the main blades are straight in the grips (as possible) and spoolup with a side wind if there is any significant wind at all.

On my BK-117, the flybar paddles are VERY much too close....but no problems. Once the 4 blade head goes on, obviously it will not be an issue.

James

GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0

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10-29-2006 04:22 AM  11 years agoPost 10
rcadd1ct

rrElite Veteran

Richardson, Texas

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Try using a zip tie around the hub. Tie it so that the flybar carier hits the zip tie.

Might have to add some CA to keep it in place.

This should get you in the air. Not very scale like, though.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

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10-29-2006 02:22 PM  11 years agoPost 11
Heli-Driver

rrElite Veteran

Arlington, TX

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Chris has a good point. You could tie up the flybar a little so it deflects less. I know it isn't proper but that turtledeck can get crunched with a wayward flybar.

I know that you can fly a heli with a locked flybar. (Don't ask how I know).

OK, I'll tell you how I know, back when I was flying Fury Extremes Miniature Aircraft makes a flybar lock, it's a molded piece of plastic and it's black. It snaps onto the head real tight and locks the flybar so you can set your pitch. If you're not paying attention you can miss the lock block as it blends in with the head. The darn thing needs to be bright orange!


I was testing some different 3D blades at the field and forgot to pull it off. The heli flew surprisingly well but it felt different so I landed and checked out why it was different. I found the flybar lock, the flybar would not pivot at all with the lock in place... so I guess if you could figure out a way to make some form of limiter that would keep the flybar from hitting the turtledeck you may be OK as long as you're flying scale like and not in super windy conditions.

When I had my 500E, I had Raptor 60 mechanics in it and that ship has the high flybar which helped but the Raptor has a lot of deflection in the flybar and even though it was on top it could still hit the rear corner of the turtledeck. It never did, I always spooled her up slowly and kept my main blades nice and tight, had plenty of flights on that bird and never once had a problem so we may be beating a dead horse here.



Raymond

Predator Gasser SE/231 X 2
Century Helicopters

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10-29-2006 02:55 PM  11 years agoPost 12
rcadd1ct

rrElite Veteran

Richardson, Texas

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I guess I should have been more clear. ( doing that often these days)

I was meaning to say put the zip tie in place as to limit the flybar, not lock it out.

Another thing you can do is use a longer main shaft. Rod lengths would have to be adjusted accordingly.

-RCA .......... Making Cuisinarts Fly!!!!!!!

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10-30-2006 07:18 AM  11 years agoPost 13
cybergirl

rrNovice

Ireland

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Thanks guys

I took a chance and decided to test fly it.Had no problems at all.Just made sure that the blades were dead straight on spool up etc.So in your words maybe we are beating a dead horse!!

We live and learn or is it learn and live


Thanks

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10-30-2006 11:16 AM  11 years agoPost 14
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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there ya go. yes, the flybar even though close, wont contact when in flight. as you said, just make sure blades are straigt on spool up and be careful not to tip the disk while slowing the head by hand. i have several scale ships with the flybar so close that it sometimes hangs up on a wire strike if i am not careful when i release the head to start spool up.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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10-30-2006 11:24 AM  11 years agoPost 15
UpInTheAir

rrApprentice

Ohio

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cybergirl


Do you have any pictures if the Hughes yet. Do you have any tips on the assembley or any quirks that you ran into. I just ordered my Funkey 500D. I can't wait to get my hands on it. This my first attempt at scale also.

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10-30-2006 05:04 PM  11 years agoPost 16
cybergirl

rrNovice

Ireland

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500E
The build is very simple even for a first timer.In saying that the instructions are really bad.I suppose they expect you to know more or less whats up.Things to watch out for are the installation of the screen.Make sure to take your time or you might have to remove it and do it again.Removing it is very daunting!!Dont ask me how i know.
I used my evo as the mech and they basically went straight in.You have to cut the tail which was no big deal.Just measure twise and cut once as they say.Get two blind nuts for where the mech are connected to the fuse at the top.The instructions say to use normal hex/nylocks.Blind nuts are the way to go.I am going to strenghthen the glue work a bit on mine.The glue work looks a bit flimsy where the woodwork is joined to the fuse.Also watch out for the tail servo rod guides that they dont catch on the fuse.Mine did.A bit of minor surgery sorted it out.Overall it is a fantastic fuse.I am very happy i paid the extra for the painted version.It looks fantastic.Will post pics later on.As a first scale project it was the way to go for me.Good luck with yours.

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