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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerial Photography and Video › Favorite ISO?
10-25-2006 08:37 AM  12 years agoPost 1
rroback

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Irvine (UCI), Ca

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So, I'm a decent camera user, but I'm certainly not a pro, and I admit it. I find setting I like, and tend to use them for a while, but today made me think a bit. I shot some photos of a house, and got home and found them to be rather dreary, and lacking sharp definition, and a bit specky. My first reaction was that the lighting was poor ( which is was, overcast, hazy..).. but then I started thinking about causes, and thought and thought, and found my camera iso was set at 800! When I used to shoot a lot of film ( mostly b&w, some color) I almost always used 100, or 400 for most normal shooting ( not night shooting, just daytime stuff), and my camera (5d) is usually at 400. What do you guys shoot with on sunny days? I've got my 5d usually on shutter priority, set at around 1000, cam sets aperature, and iso 400, but I must have bumped something today. Going to possibly reshoot tomorrow. I find just leaving the cam on auto has a chance of it selecting a too low shutterspeed, which could lead to vibe issues ( although heli is close to glass smooth).

Rhett..... I can't fly, but the Profi sure can.

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10-25-2006 12:07 PM  12 years agoPost 2
FLAP

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Michigan

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lets assume a nice sunny day so we are all talking about the same thing. Everything is a compromise. Too fast a shutter speed and the aperture can be too wide giving you a poor depth of field. To low an iso and aperture also has to be bigger than you might want it (all of these variables will be different on various cameras and lenses). Too high of an iso can cause quality problems with your photo (less of a problem with higher end cameras) For Canon XT and 5D, a good starting point, on a sunny day, should be around 1/500 -1/800, ISO 200-400, and aps of 5.6 - 7. Best way for you to figure this out is spend 20 minutes playing with various settings and ISOs because everyone's equipment will be different. Take a look at your good shots and ones you are not happy with and compare the settings. Great thing about digital is that you can see all the settings to see what worked.

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10-25-2006 02:54 PM  12 years agoPost 3
daveye

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North Carolina

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I use the sunny 16 rule. It makes things very simple. If you type sunny 16 on a Google search you will get tones of information.

David

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10-25-2006 03:13 PM  12 years agoPost 4
aambrose

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Pana, IL

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This is interesting. Sometimes I make the decision for camera settings by just looking at the current weather/sky conditions while other times I'll take test shots on the ground and adjust settings. That doesnt always work because the camera is at a different angle once in the air (obviously). If anyone cares to share some tips, that would be great.

One thing I've noticed in some of our photos lately is a "glowing" effect around bright white objects (ie. white roofs, white clothing, etc). This isnt limited to just bright sunny days either. I know some tricks in Photoshop to help with this type of thing, but I was wondering if there are some solid rules to follow while shooting to help avoid it.

Thank you!


Tony

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10-25-2006 03:26 PM  12 years agoPost 5
CKY

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Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada

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It could be the lens?? especially if more prevalent at the outer edges of the picture. The more light is bent the more it divides the spectrum. Better lenses compensate for this with more elements etc.

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10-25-2006 03:31 PM  12 years agoPost 6
Wayne Mann

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United States of America

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All of the tests that I have read about the 5D talks about it being a little noisy at higher ISO settings. We always shoot at ISO 100 on bright days with our D70. We do not shoot aerial pictures on crappy days as I would never hand a client pictures taken in those conditions. Even with the conditions that you described I would not likely go past ISO 400. Our general rule is: one we only shoot stills when we have direct sun light with little to no haze and two; if we get to a job site early we wait to shoot until our light meter tells us that we have enough light to shoot at F5 or better. This also applies to video.

We always use shutter priority mode and I do a reset to clear out any accidental settings that might have gotten changed then change the parameters that I want for the shot we are trying to get. We generally shoot at 1/800 of a second in ideal conditions and faster if it gets windy. Your helicopter may be as glass smooth as my Caliber, but the helicopter is always moving slightly on yaw and in other axises as well.

We also use exposure compensation in some instances to lighten or darken a photo.

Check out this web site as it is packed with tons of information. Ken is mostly Nikon based, but he also has quite a bit of info about Canon. The site is mostly about photography in general.

kenrockwell.com

I hope this helps


Wayne Mann

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10-25-2006 03:42 PM  12 years agoPost 7
aambrose

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Pana, IL

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Chris,
We shoot with the Canon 20mm and I've seen the "glow" effect on white objects no matter where they are in the frame. It's usually most noticeable when zooming in close in Photoshop.
We do not shoot aerial pictures on crappy days as I would never hand a client pictures taken in those conditions.
I tend to agree with you Wayne. The only exception is when the client says they really need them. In which case, we have a disclosure in our terms to cover situations like this.
We also use exposure compensation in some instances to lighten or darken a photo.
I do this as well. We recently shot a farm with some light/white colored buildings and it was on a bright sunny day. I had the CP filter on and even did some test shots on the ground while adjusting the exposure compensation. Once in the air, the highlights were still "glowing".

Sorry Rhett -- not meaning to hijack your thread.

Thanks!


Tony

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10-25-2006 03:47 PM  12 years agoPost 8
Tatayoyo

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Belgium

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Not the ISO setting
Hello,

For what I've read and experienced, the 5D becomes only noisy from 3200ISO. And even, you hardly notice it. Unless zooming a lot in your picture. Check out the shutter speed.

To me, there must be something else that made you image blury.

Thomas

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10-25-2006 04:46 PM  12 years agoPost 9
Panomaniac

rrApprentice

Croatia - Adriatic coast

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Just wondering, does any of you guys use bracketing oprion on your DSLRs? Using 3 frames 0EV/+1EV/-1EV you should be able to 'catch' optimal exposure...

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10-25-2006 04:52 PM  12 years agoPost 10
Wayne Mann

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United States of America

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Hi Panomanic,

I have never used that feature. We have done a lot of testing to find what works best for us. As long as we stick to our parameters regarding the conditions that we will shoot in we pretty much know what we have when we're done.


Wayne Mann

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10-25-2006 04:55 PM  12 years agoPost 11
Wayne Mann

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United States of America

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Hi Tony,

Did you try a polarizer. We always use a circular polarizer in bright sun light as it brings out the contrast between the clouds and the blue sky and helps with bright objects like your barn.


Wayne Mann

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10-25-2006 05:17 PM  12 years agoPost 12
aambrose

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Pana, IL

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Yes Wayne, the CP filter was in place.


Tony

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10-25-2006 05:29 PM  12 years agoPost 13
Wayne Mann

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United States of America

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Sorry tony, I saw the CP but I was unable to connect the dots.


Wayne Mann

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10-25-2006 06:01 PM  12 years agoPost 14
aambrose

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Pana, IL

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Totally understandable.


Tony

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10-25-2006 06:47 PM  12 years agoPost 15
tabbytabb

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seattle

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Tony, is the glowing coming from a slight overexposure on the highlights that you are pulling back in ACR? I know I typically set my exposure compensation to -1/3 or -2/3 so to preserve highlights as the 5D, and 350D tend to expose just a touch hot for my taste left at default settings

Just a thought?

Tabb

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10-25-2006 08:16 PM  12 years agoPost 16
aambrose

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Pana, IL

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Tabb,
Yes, the glowing effect is present in ACR when I zoom in on objects with a lot of highlights. It's not really a "halo" so to speak, but more of a soft glow around the objects. I think the 300D defaults to a bit overexposed too. I've bumped it down as you have stated (sometimes more). In one case, I had it at -2/3 with the CP filter and still got the glow. Sometimes I'll create a far underexposed image in ACR then a correctly exposed version of the same image then layer them in PS. Next, I use a mask to pull the highlights from the underexposed layer into the correctly exposed layer. Seems to work OK, but if I didnt have to do it, it would speed things up.

If I get a chance, I'll post an example.

Thanks!


Tony

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10-25-2006 08:32 PM  12 years agoPost 17
nikivan

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Vancouver, BC, Canada

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We shoot with the Canon 20mm and I've seen the "glow" effect on white objects
You should try to set the aperture to 11 or 16 to minimize this effect. You may have trouble when using 5.6 or 8 with 20mm wide angle lens (unless this is L quality lens). With the new SLRs the noise in 800 ISO is minimal (especially with well lit scene) so don't be afraid to set the camera to this ISO and increase the speed to compensate for the smaller aperture.

You may also consider removing the lens filter as it can produce some ghosting effects. I generally don't use polarizing filters and I get excellent results, see some samples here http://www.aerialphotoimage.com/services.asp

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10-25-2006 09:05 PM  12 years agoPost 18
aambrose

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Pana, IL

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nikivan,
I will look into this. No L series. The glow is present with or without the filter. Not really a ghosting effect though.

Thanks!


Tony

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10-25-2006 09:25 PM  12 years agoPost 19
Torsten

rrKey Veteran

Germany

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i fly most of mine with 160.

but then again i´m not a photographer by trade.

55% salesman 30% pilot 15% photographer

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10-25-2006 10:27 PM  12 years agoPost 20
CKY

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Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada

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I like the viewing feature on my XT (most dslr's have it) you can see if highlights were blown (the areas blink). Only helps when post viewing back on the ground, but will show if you are overexposing the problem area and compensate in the future. Just a thought

Chris

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